Concern with rising pH

[JoyfulL]

I finally got the pH where I wanted it at 7.4 (Eco Finish recommendations/warrenty~new construction) before the freezing temperatures and snow came around last weekend. Due to running the pump filter and water features, which include three sheer descents and one bubbler, 24/7 for the past week my pH has come up to 8. We had two days this week with a break in the weather where freeze protection was kicked off during the day for several hours due rising day time temps but we are back to freezing for the next 48 hours possibly.
Should I throw in some acid now or can it wait until the weather warms above freezing?
Water is flowing good, except auto fill which is still frozen.
Pool was filled on 12/1/23 with tap water, it has a high ph (8.2) and TA started at 240’ish. I’ve been working diligently to get it to 90 with Eco finish recommendations of 80-120. I use the Taylor K2006-C and have posted my results in Pool Math but not sure how to share them with you. Thank you in advance for your help, I really appreciate having such great resources!

 

[Texas Splash]

A couple days probably isn't going to make a huge difference overall, but if the water is moving well now and you are able to grab a sample for testing, that should be fine.

 

[JoyfulL]

A couple days probably isn't going to make a huge difference overall, but if the water is moving well now and you are able to grab a sample for testing, that should be fine.

Thank you! I tested earlier today which is when I got the 8.0 reading. I was hoping not to have to play with muriatic acid in this OK wind and temp of 14 degrees

 

[pjt]

In PoolMath, enable "Track CSI"

With the low temps and your low CH, CSI will be strongly negative. pH in the high 7s or ~8.0 is perfectly fine. I wouldn't add any MA, but I would bump up the CH to ~300, add some CYA, and FC. It's been almost two months since the pool was filled, so your plaster startup should be complete.

 

[JoyfulL]

In PoolMath, enable "Track CSI"

With the low temps and your low CH, CSI will be strongly negative. pH in the high 7s or ~8.0 is perfectly fine. I wouldn't add any MA, but I would bump up the CH to ~300, add some CYA, and FC. It's been almost two months since the pool was filled, so your plaster startup should be complete.

Thanks so much! I adjusted my settings in Pool Math after researching what it meant; no plaster to cure with the Eco finish coating on top. I was debating if I need to address CYA levels now or when warmer days show up consistently. As far as CH my recommended range is 180-220 and FC 1-3. I started with a combination of chlorine tabs and liquid chlorine since CYA is essentially non existent. My plan is to use liquid chlorine once I have a solid CYA of 30-50ppm. I have read through many threads of what you have to do to reduce both CYA and CH and I don’t want to have to do that so I am proceeding with caution.

 

[newdude]

I was hoping not to have to play with muriatic acid in this OK wind and temp of 14 degrees

Hold on, I'm getting dressed here. *zips up flame suit*. Ok. I'm ready.

PH is a long term concern (so is TA and CH). Any CYA and FC at all will likely be enough with water anywhere near freezing. (Or below)

Letting them all go for a week or two when it's nasty will not harm a thing, and you are still WAY better off than all of us up north who don't check a thing for up to 8 months. I would spike my FC per my current CYA level ahead of any cold spells, just because, and let the rest ride throughout.

 

[pjt]

I was debating if I need to address CYA levels now or when warmer days show up consistently.

Cold winter weather and short days mean this isn't time critical and can certainly wait until the weather improves. Key takeaway for now is don't add MA.

As far as CH my recommended range is 180-220 and FC 1-3.

Where are you getting this? TFP recommended levels are a good place to start:

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.

www.troublefreepool.com

I have read through many threads of what you have to do to reduce both CYA and CH and I don’t want to have to do that so I am proceeding with caution.

What's the TA and CH of your fill water?

 

[JoyfulL]

Cold winter weather and short days mean this isn't time critical and can certainly wait until the weather improves. Key takeaway for now is don't add MA.


Where are you getting this? TFP recommended levels are a good place to start:

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.

www.troublefreepool.com

What's the TA and CH of your fill water?

TA fill water was 240ppm, CH was 170 but that measure was taken after the PB added 25 lbs of calcium at the time they serviced the pool and handed it over for us on 12/6/23.
Because our finish is slightly different being Eco finish, I follow their guidelines for water chemistry to protect my warranty:
pH 7.4
FC 1-3
TC 1-3
TA 80-120
CH 180-220
CYA 50

I will hold off on adding anything for right now and see what happens once water features aren’t running 24/7 in freeze protect mode, when this cold snap clears we have a rainy week ahead of us. I appreciate everyone’s feedback and guidance, glad I asked before adding MA.

 

[Mdragger88]

TA fill water was 240ppm, CH was 170 but that measure was taken after the PB added 25 lbs of calcium at the time they serviced the pool and handed it over for us on 12/6/23.
Because our finish is slightly different being Eco finish, I follow their guidelines for water chemistry to protect my warranty:
pH 7.4
FC 1-3
TC 1-3
TA 80-120
CH 180-220
CYA 50

I will hold off on adding anything for right now and see what happens once water features aren’t running 24/7 in freeze protect mode, when this cold snap clears we have a rainy week ahead of us. I appreciate everyone’s feedback and guidance, glad I asked before adding MA.

Their guidelines are going to get you algae which will require the
SLAM Process.
Currently your cya in poolmath is 5 (which is not a measurable amount)
So the lower fc is ok but if you wish to maintain such a low fc you will need to keep your cya 30 or below & be sure to dose daily or so you don’t fall below minimum

FC/CYA Levels

 

[JoyfulL]

Their guidelines are going to get you algae which will require the
SLAM Process.
Currently your cya in poolmath is 5 (which is not a measurable amount)
So the lower fc is ok but if you wish to maintain such a low fc you will need to keep your cya 30 or below & be sure to dose daily or so you don’t fall below minimum
View attachment 550807
FC/CYA Levels

Thank you, I definitely don’t want an algae problem so where do I start? Increase CYA and raise FC to at least 3? I’m here to learn.

 

[newdude]

Increase CYA and raise FC to at least 3?

Your CYA of 50 posted above is fine. 4 is your minimum and you need to add enough liquid chlorine each day to remain above 4 the next day. This time of year you might only lose .5 or so a day, so a 6 should be plenty of leeway to fluctuate. In the thick of the summer the daily loss could get as high as 4 or even 5 ppm a day and you need to raise your target accordingly.

 

[pjt]

TA fill water was 240ppm, CH was 170 but that measure was taken after the PB added 25 lbs of calcium

What I meant was measuring the TA and CH from your household water supply (hose or autofill source).

I follow their guidelines for water chemistry

You have to decide whether to follow Ecofinish or TFP methods. They are very different from each other and you can't do both. I would highly recommend following TFP guidelines.

 

[Mdragger88]

Thank you, I definitely don’t want an algae problem so where do I start? Increase CYA and raise FC to at least 3? I’m here to learn.

You decide where you want the cya to be - 30ppm is fine for the shoulder seasons & you may need to increase up to 50ppm at some point during peak uv season.
Then you just adhere to the chart - dose to high target & replenish before broaching minimum for your particular cya level

Without any cya even low levels of fc can be harsh.
Cya is sunscreen for chlorine- without it the sun will consume your fc quickly.
Lowish cya isn’t as much of an issue when the uv is very low but even in winter you can have a higher uv day so 20- 30ppm of cya is still recommended.

 

[JoyfulL]

You decide where you want the cya to be - 30ppm is fine for the shoulder seasons & you may need to increase up to 50ppm at some point during peak uv season.
Then you just adhere to the chart - dose to high target & replenish before broaching minimum for your particular cya level
View attachment 550951
Without any cya even low levels of fc can be harsh.
Cya is sunscreen for chlorine- without it the sun will consume your fc quickly.
Lowish cya isn’t as much of an issue when the uv is very low but even in winter you can have a higher uv day so 20- 30ppm of cya is still recommended.

Thank you! I am getting some CYA in the water tomorrow, all of the local pool stores are closed on Sunday. I know the liquid form is more expensive but I figure it’s the best route at this point. I will let the pH sit for a bit until FC and CYA are in check following the chart above; does that sound like the correct order of steps to take immediately?

 

[newdude]

I know the liquid form is more expensive but I figure it’s the best route at this point.

Each gallon will get you about 15. The goods clump up on the bottom so only use full jugs and rinse them well to get it all out.

. I will let the pH sit for a bit until FC and CYA are in check following the chart above; does that sound like the correct order of steps to take immediately?

You can manage the PH while the rest is going on, or let it slide for a day.

 

[Mdragger88]

Be sure to always use the entire jug when using liquid cya along with plenty of rinsing the jug as new dude described.