Circupool RJ45, low salt and check cell light on

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lightmaster

lightmaster

0
TFP Guide
Jun 22, 2017
861
Baxley, GA
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-45
I have a Circupool RJ45 SWG. Noticed last week that it was not producing chlorine and had the "low salt" and "check cell" lights lit up. I checked the salt and the drop test came back with 4400. The manual says it's good from 3000-4000, so it's a bit high, but it's not the high light that's flashing. After searching, most seem to recommend cleaning it with acid when the check cell is on, so I soaked it in a 2:1 dilution of 31.45% muriatic acid. Didn't see any bubbling or reacting, and from watching some YouTube videos, it looks like if it is scaled, it should begin violently bubbling. Also, I don't see any signs of scaling on the plates.

What should I do next to figure out what's wrong with it? It is 7 years old now, but 3-4 of those years we didn't have a pool, so it's probably only been used around 3.5 years, so I'm hoping it's not dead.
 
Good morning. Mine has been doing the same for a couple seasons now. But unlike your situation, I do see some occasional scale, so I do a careful manual cleaning with a wooden stick before doing a mild acid bath. That seems to help. My K-1766 testing never matches the module's salt read-out, so I'm always trying to find a compromise to keep the module happy. In your case, you might reach out to Discount salt Pools for some advice. Being that it's 7 years old they may not be able to provide any pro-rated assistance, but perhaps they can offer some help or further troubleshooting.
 
lightmaster said:
Also, I don't see any signs of scaling on the plates.
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Never acid clean it without visible buildup (its like hard Toothpaste). And only after knocking as much off as possible with a zip tie, popsicle stick, wooden BBQ skewer or drain / hair / unclogger thingie.

Then try vinegar first, then finally acid. It strips the unobtainium from the plates causing premature end of life.
lightmaster said:
What should I do next to figure out
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Hopefully it's just the sensor. Hang tight for a Circupool whisperer for further diagnosing. In the meantime, check the section about replacing the flow switch.

Circupool SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Also, when the cell is first turned on, it will produce visible clouds of what what I assume is hydrogen gas in the cell and water taken directly from the outlet in the pool turns a dark brown with the OTO drops, so it's definitely producing chlorine when it is throwing the Check Cell light.
 
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After around 3-4 years of actual use and 3ish years of sitting in a shed? And if it was depleted, would it still produce copious amounts of chlorine when the check cell light isn't on?
 
lightmaster said:
After around 3-4 years of actual use and 3ish years of sitting in a shed? And if it was depleted, would it still produce copious amounts of chlorine when the check cell light isn't on?
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And an acid wash.

Yup.

It tries to generate and the controls realize it is maxing out and shuts down.
 

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Texas Splash said:
@lightmaster, FYI ... I sent a message over to DSP. I'm curious about a couple things and their reply may be valuable to some of our Wiki articles as well. Once I hear back and let you know.
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Their site told me to text my message to some number, but the text won't go through, keep saying failed to send.
 
@lightmaster, below is the reply I received from DSP:

Question: "How do the RJ-Series determine (sense) the salinity level?"

I don't think they have a stand-alone salt sensor do they? I was under the impression they were much like the Hayward Aquarites in that between water temp and other readings the module receives from the cell and/or flow switch, it calculate an estimated salinity level for the module. I'm not sure though. In other words, if an owner's RJ module is saying low salinity and they have confirmed the cell is clean and the salt level in the pool is good (confirmed with Taylor K-1766), then it's an indication the cell itself is reaching the end of its life. The plates are not generating the expected output resulting in a low salt reading.

Does this sound about right? Did I miss anything? Appreciate your time.

DSP Reply: Staff (John U) (4/10/2024 10:44:24 AM)

Message
Hey Patrick,

That is correct, much like the Hayward, the Rj System measures salinity by determining the level of conductivity in the water. Anything that affects conductivity can trigger a low salt/check cell indicator. Some examples include low salt, dirty cell, air trapped in the cell or low water temperature. All of these things must be aligned in order for the system to calculate an estimated salinity level. Also, ensure 'cell type' setting has not been changed. Customers often unknowingly change the cell type altering the salinity level which in turn can also trigger a warning light. Any solid warning lights will shut off amps to the cell, meaning no chlorine production.

Best Practices for Troubleshooting Salt Chlorine Generators

www.discountsaltpool.com www.discountsaltpool.com

Above you will find a link going over more specifics on this topic. Please make sure your readers understand that replacing the cell should be the last resort after ensuring this checklist has been thoroughly gone through.

Please let me know if you have any further questions.

@ajw22, perhaps you could add this to the applicable Wiki page(s)? This morning I stumbled across one page about all SWG salt sensors that is still under construction. I can't seem to find it again though. There is also the Circupool page as well.
 
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ajw22 said:
I am not sure what page that is.
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I'll try to find it. It has several SWG manufacture listed (but not Circupool) and discussed salt sensors/readings specifically. At the top of the page, it was highlighted in yellow to indicate the page was basically still in draft form and not able to be searched.
 
Texas Splash said:
Customers often unknowingly change the cell type altering the salinity level which in turn can also trigger a warning light.
Click to expand...

Ok, how do you change the cell type? I looked through the manual and didn't see anything about it. Will check if it's something obvious in the menu that's not in the manual once the rain stops today.
 
lightmaster said:
Ok, how do you change the cell type? I looked through the manual and didn't see anything about it.
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Not sure really. When mine is on it always says RJ-something (I don't recall if it's model specific) on the main menu. Now I'm curious to check when I get home. Ha.
 
Texas Splash said:
Not sure really. When mine is on it always says RJ-something (I don't recall if it's model specific) on the main menu. Now I'm curious to check when I get home. Ha.
Click to expand...

The very last menu screen says RJ-45 for mine, which is correct. And apparently there are little arrow buttons below the + and - buttons I've never noticed before that will cycle between all the models.
 
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