Recently had my old (leaking) heater and chlorinator replaced by a local pro -- a new Jandy JXi and a Jandy TruChlor erosion feeder (used sparingly). Other than this equipment and the necessary PVC connections, none of the other equipment was touched (pump, filter, Jandy valves, etc -- all of the other equipment is less than 1yr old). I've included a photo of my pad. FYI, this equipment is several feet above the pool water level and there's nothing I can do about that, just the way it was built. Quad-cartridge filter was just cleaned well by me.
I run the pump 24/7, 22 hours at low speed (1750RPM) and a couple of hours 2000RPM for better skimming during day (+5 minutes at higher speed at 8AM just to make sure the pump is fully primed to start the day). Before I had the equipment replaced, I never really had a problem with air in my pump basket. Sure, there would be a little more at 1750RPM than 2000RPM, but it wasn't too bad.
After the heater was replaced, I'm getting significantly more air in my pump basket. When I start the pump, it does prime fully (coin sized bubble in the pump), but after a few hours of running, the water level inside the pump has dropped probably 1" or so, it's essentially even with the top of the white plastic strainer, I attempted to show this in the photo. This is much worse than before my equipment was changed out. I put a brand new pump lid and O-ring (lubed with MagicLube 2 red/silicone) and it did not change anything. I also replaced and lubed all the O-rings in my section side Jandy valves.
Questions:
Is there any plausible explanation for this? I thought maybe the new equipment is less restrictive (pressure gauge barely moves the needle off zero at 2000RPM or lower) and maybe the hydraulic characteristics changed? I tried reducing the size of return eyeballs in the pool (went from 2x 3/4" + 2x 1/2" eyeballs, to 4x 1/2" eyeballs). That brought up my pressure a little bit but did not have any impact on the problem at the pump. Is the equipment change a red herring and unrelated to this problem? It's just weird that this problem started right when the new equipment went in.
If I run the pump at 2000RPM constantly (instead of 1750RPM), the water level in the pump doesn't drop as much.
As long as the water level doesn't go any lower inside the pump, any problem with this? I really don't like the way this looks and don't want the pump losing prime and frying itself while we're away (so far it has never lost prime on its own).
NOTES: I do see few tiny bubbles entering the pump in the clear check valve between the suction side Jandy valve and pump, but I've always had those. I assumed it was some kind of cavitation or dissolved gases coming out of solution since I have (a) large pump, (b) equipment several feet above water level, and (c) unrestrictive system (oversized cartridge filter).
Chris
I run the pump 24/7, 22 hours at low speed (1750RPM) and a couple of hours 2000RPM for better skimming during day (+5 minutes at higher speed at 8AM just to make sure the pump is fully primed to start the day). Before I had the equipment replaced, I never really had a problem with air in my pump basket. Sure, there would be a little more at 1750RPM than 2000RPM, but it wasn't too bad.
After the heater was replaced, I'm getting significantly more air in my pump basket. When I start the pump, it does prime fully (coin sized bubble in the pump), but after a few hours of running, the water level inside the pump has dropped probably 1" or so, it's essentially even with the top of the white plastic strainer, I attempted to show this in the photo. This is much worse than before my equipment was changed out. I put a brand new pump lid and O-ring (lubed with MagicLube 2 red/silicone) and it did not change anything. I also replaced and lubed all the O-rings in my section side Jandy valves.
Questions:
Is there any plausible explanation for this? I thought maybe the new equipment is less restrictive (pressure gauge barely moves the needle off zero at 2000RPM or lower) and maybe the hydraulic characteristics changed? I tried reducing the size of return eyeballs in the pool (went from 2x 3/4" + 2x 1/2" eyeballs, to 4x 1/2" eyeballs). That brought up my pressure a little bit but did not have any impact on the problem at the pump. Is the equipment change a red herring and unrelated to this problem? It's just weird that this problem started right when the new equipment went in.
If I run the pump at 2000RPM constantly (instead of 1750RPM), the water level in the pump doesn't drop as much.
As long as the water level doesn't go any lower inside the pump, any problem with this? I really don't like the way this looks and don't want the pump losing prime and frying itself while we're away (so far it has never lost prime on its own).
NOTES: I do see few tiny bubbles entering the pump in the clear check valve between the suction side Jandy valve and pump, but I've always had those. I assumed it was some kind of cavitation or dissolved gases coming out of solution since I have (a) large pump, (b) equipment several feet above water level, and (c) unrestrictive system (oversized cartridge filter).
Chris
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