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Walmart, home depot, lowes, Menards, pinch-a-penny all have chlorinating liquid. 1 gallon of 10% will add 5ppm to 20k gallons. So a little less than a gallon. Even 5ppm each day is ok, no need for measuring cups.

Thats helpful info. 4 hours of runtime leaves 20 hours each day with no chlorine generation. The levels can drop quite a bit before the SWG turns back on. That may be part of your issue. Consider running longer at lower percentage to keep the FC level from swinging so much. If you have a...

Bad quality control. If its new you can maybe ask for a replacement.

My filter runs at 1800rpm 24x7. Its good to check it at the higher RPM but dont filter at that speed. Did we already rule out grocery store clorox bleach with fabric softeners?

Silly question: Is the new multiport valve set to “filter” and not recirculate?

I would leave it alone except let the pH stay in thr high 7’s. Chasing the CSI isnt providing any advantages. Marty may have a different take.

Its also really hard to pass an OCLT when FC is above SLAM level. Read the SLAM article again and note that its fine to swim during a SLAM (if you can see bottom for swimmer rescue) so theres no reason to give up early. Just stop overdosing the chlorine. 😉

The issue with raising the TA is that the pH will then rise even faster and FORCE you to keep adding acid to lower the pH (and TA along with it), which will lead you on and endless yo-yo of increasing TA and then decreasing it with acid. If you leave it alone, your CH will eventually increase...

Whats your CYA level? If SLAM is 12ppm why is your FC at 17 and 22.5? Going above SLAM level just wastes chlorine. The goal is to replenish the FC to SLAM level several times per day, not go so far above that it never goes below SLAM level.

Probably not. Any algae in the pool takes several days to clear up with the SLAM process. Just keep the slam going until you don’t see any more algae at all.

You can add calcium instead of increasing TA.

You dont have a leaf rake or a pool cleaner/robot?

Welcome to TFP lots of folks who get pool stored end up here with similar stories. We only recommend two test kits and Id recommend the TF-PRO. Heres a link to the what/why. https://www.troublefreepool.com/blog/2019/01/18/test-kits-compared/

Not normal to have to brush off algae.

5.5 is close to the bottom end of recommended FC. Sounds like you need to run closer to the upper end.

No one mentioned that theres no reason to clean it at all if the water is managed well. I havent needed to clean mine in 4 years and it looks the same as when it was new.

Post some pictures of the staining. Only way to get rid of copper (if thats the issue) is to replace the water.

Look at the two prices I listed above. One costs you $0.65 and the other is $1.61. Its more than twice as expensive.

The cheapest one is the better deal as long as your pool can accomodate increasing the CH by ~150ppm. Once the CH builds up it will cause problems like CYA. 55lbs of 65% calhypo adds 212FC ( and 150CH) 50lbs of 70% adds 217FC (and 168ppm CH) divide the $139 by 212FC and get $0.65/FC divide the...

PoolRX contains copper which will show up as black stains that are hard to remove once it builds up in the water.

No its not normal or typical. How large is the hole?

Do a bucket test dor a day or two and see if its evaporation or not.

For context, the FC is just at the top end of the normal range with the CYA at 60 when theres no algae. With Algae its gotta be way closer to SLAM level to do much.

Could it be described as “rusty” cause thats what others have said iron does when chlorine gets higher. Any chance you have a cartridge filter, skimmer baskets, or other stuff thats got a turquoise tint to it (kinda like when copper gets wet or oxidizes)? You can get a Jacks Magic metals test...

Hey there, the SLAM is a process not a one and done kinda thing. I only mention that because some folks think otherwise and it confuses newcomers. The SLAM is a continuous process that takes days or weeks (for the really bad swamps). Follow the process linked above.

Post a picture of the pool water. If you’re using your phone, you can choose a little options button before you add it and it will let you choose a smaller size. The pool store is not super great at metals testing either and their test accuracy can read 0 to 0.3 if there’s no metals in the...

What’s your TA now? If it’s still 90 that will make your pH rise very fast. You don’t have to wait a day to check the pH. You can add acid and check the pH in 30 minutes and see if it went down as expected. If not, Then add more acid.

Thats just silly, but understandable from someone selling the 2 speed and doesnt have the VSP. 😉

Got a picture of the manual? The only color chart I can think of would be the pH colors on the test vial

20% more than the max current load. So 22 amps minimum.