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Are there any reliable phosphate tests? In all my time owning pools, I've never once looked at that, and I know most people here treat phosphate remover as snake oil.

Hadn't thought of that, will check it today.

The very last menu screen says RJ-45 for mine, which is correct. And apparently there are little arrow buttons below the + and - buttons I've never noticed before that will cycle between all the models.

Ok, how do you change the cell type? I looked through the manual and didn't see anything about it. Will check if it's something obvious in the menu that's not in the manual once the rain stops today.

Their site told me to text my message to some number, but the text won't go through, keep saying failed to send.

After around 3-4 years of actual use and 3ish years of sitting in a shed? And if it was depleted, would it still produce copious amounts of chlorine when the check cell light isn't on?

Lol, that's a reference to Avatar

It throws the flow error at first (cuz there's no water flowing yet) then that goes away and it says generating, then at some point it goes to check cell. Pretty sure it's not the flow switch.

Also, when the cell is first turned on, it will produce visible clouds of what what I assume is hydrogen gas in the cell and water taken directly from the outlet in the pool turns a dark brown with the OTO drops, so it's definitely producing chlorine when it is throwing the Check Cell light.

I have a Circupool RJ45 SWG. Noticed last week that it was not producing chlorine and had the "low salt" and "check cell" lights lit up. I checked the salt and the drop test came back with 4400. The manual says it's good from 3000-4000, so it's a bit high, but it's not the high light that's...

This is what I'm still using, test it at the beginning of the swim season and then again every couple of months, so maybe 4 or 5 times a year. I bought a 100mL bottle off Amazon and 5 years later still have half the bottle left. Also, after 5 years, it still has the same deep blue color, so...

I disassembled the impeller motor. One of the bearings in it is seized up. Gonna try to find a replacement bearing and see if that gets it working.

Got the servo connected back right. Figured out which wire is DC+ and which is DC-. Think it's the impeller motor. Made a really odd grinding sound while turning, and when powered off, does not rotate smoothly by hand.

Both I tested both at the power supply and the other end of the cable, same readings for the 3 wires that are inside the cable. The connector on the PSU has 4 pins, but the cable has 3. Bigger issue right now is that I unplugged the servo from the robot's control board, and apparently that...

My Dolphin S300 is acting up. Runs for about 10-30 seconds in cleaning mode, but runs perfectly fine driving it manually. I noticed an error message in the app that says "DC In Voltage". I checked the impeller for any obstructions, but it was clear. I stumbled upon this troubleshooting guide...

WhisperFlo VST installed and working great so far. At the default low speed of 1400 RPM, my SWG is producing noticable hydrogen Bubbles. Is this cause for concern or safe enough?

Decided to go with the IntelliFlo since it seems to be the most popular here, but that is on backorder until Dec at the earliest. So instead ordered a WhisperFlo VST to hopefully arrive next week. Thanks for all the information.

So, from what I've gathered from responses, I should get a 2.5-3HP (is THP the same as HP?) pump, and seems that Pentair WhisperFlo VST 2.6 THP and IntelliFlo VS+ 3HP are ones that people here like? Any particular reason for one over the other?

With the WhisperFlo VST, can you set a max global speed like you can with the Intelliflo? Can't seem to find anything about a max speed setting in the online manual.

Underground pipes will definitely be staying at 1.5". Buried under concrete and the pool itself.

If I can ever find a gasket that actually fits the lid, that part is fine. I've tried 2 or 3 different replacement gaskets and they are all too large and don't work. Also, wasn't aware that a VS could be mounted to the existing basket. I see new 1.5-1.65HP motors for around $600, but whole new...

My current (well, previous now) pump just let out the magic smoke when it went to turn on this morning, throwing the breaker and reaching skin-scalding temps within a few seconds. So, guess we're in the market for a new pump now. Looking to replace it with a more energy-efficient variable speed...

HTH's Super Green to Blue 1 Shock with Active ingredients: Calcium Hypoclorite 56.44% Otther Ingredients: 43.56% Is this stuff just rebranded Cal Hypo, or are there other less desirable stuff in it too? Talking about just the bags with the red SHOCK label on them, NOT the bags of Green to...

Good to know y'all do monitor and utilize that email. So many apps have unmonitored emails listed on the store pages, wasn't sure if that email was even used. I know a friend of mine could definitely benefit from automatic SLAM reminds and such. Have to hound him like crazy so he actually keeps...

That's what I was figuring, just didn't remember it being that far off a couple years ago when I used it last. Probably time for a good deep cleaning of the cell then.

Lol. My SLAM is done. Enjoying the pool and just maintaining it now. Was more thinking about new guys, be less confusing if the app didn't keep telling them that their FC is too high.

Dev responded to an email after a few days, maybe from seeing this post... 🤷🏻‍♂️ Said he'd add it to future feature ideas. Main reason I think it'd be good is so that when SLAMing, you don't have to do a manual calculation to figure out how much chlorine to add to get to your shock FC, it'll...

Just got a TF-100 Pro (really love the blue case that comes with it) to replace the TF-100 kit I gave to a friend. I've noticed that the results from the Salt test are consistent, but consistently lower than the values my Circupool RJ-45 reports. It says the average salinity is 2700. My TF-100...

Love the PoolMath app, but unless I'm missing something obvious, is there no way to active SLAM mode so it will stop telling you your FC is too high when you're SLAMing your pool? I would think you should be able to flip a setting in the app to activate SLAM mode and it will automatically use...

Well a no-load test shows 120v between ground and all leads, and 240v across L1 and L2. I have flash Tasmota (open source automation software compatible with any Tuya ESP82xx controllers) and the physical button as well as software button are working. Now just need to wire up pumps and SWG to...