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Nope, it does not work. I would love for anyone who has done it to show what it looks like. It won't seat all the way and that's not a good situation.

For some reason it's not seating right. I'll have to take another look but has anyone actually fitted it on there, and not have issues?

I see a lot of posts recommending Siemens/Pentair GFCI for VSP pumps. Specifically the QF215A/QF220A. But are people installing a new subpanel for just this one breaker, if they do not have a Siemens subpanel? I have Square D Homeline. Does anyone have this setup, a Homeline panel and Siemens...

Ok I need to revise my previous statements. Everything was mislabeled and I went and tested everything. Both pumps are on their own circuit, 15amp 220v. They look like single levers but when you pull on it, the second one gets pulled too. I usually see like a bar or something connecting them...

Bought a house with a pool and the way it is wired up: Two pumps, regular pump and a jet pump. Each on it's own circuit. Neither are GFCI. Single pole. So I'm assuming 110v. Pool pump is an Pentair Superflo VSP. Downline from the pool pump, is a GFCI outlet. From there it runs to another outlet...

So my pool has a vacuum inlet, 1.5" NPT I'm assuming. Hayward vac-lock doesn't catch. It'll go about 2-3 turns then go off the rails and get pushed out. Taking a close look, it seems like it's calcified pretty bad. Previous pool person didn't take good care as there was calcification all along...

Remember to not just look for schedule 40, but that it is pressure rated and not DWV or something like this https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-4-in-x-4-in-dia-90-Degree-PVC-Schedule-40-Hub-Elbow-Fitting/3132779 Schedule 40 just means thickness. But it could be foam etc

Thank you. Why in the world would they name it two different things lol

So I have a Pentair CCP520, built in 2016. It's missing union nut and fitting on the outside that would connect to the pipes from the pump and heater. It has the threaded part that is connected to the bottom bulkhead of the filter. But for the life of me, can't figure out what part goes where...

Sorry. It's a very old heater. Laars Teledyne Series 1 or 2 (not at home right now). I think the bypass is not working, and this is happening a lot when the variable speed pump kicks in while the heater is still on. It's getting quite hot. I think it can all be related.

Thank you. I have a stenner now, but it's getting clogged up quite a bit with salt. Scrapping it all and going SWG.

My equipment pad is pretty tight with not a lot of space on either end. Can someone tell me min straight run I need to install the T-Cell, and possibly flow meter? I know the flow switch needs 12" before it which can be the cell.

I don’t think so. Active 20 has a longer cord, swivel, and I think two brushes vs 1. I’m thinking of springing for this exact model as it’s fairly cheap.

Bypass was broken. But I fixed it a couple of years ago. pH is good. Calcium buildup is actually slowly dissolving away after controlling pH for a year. Only liquid chlorine no tabs. But I do have a pool guy who keeps on eye on chems. I think he does use dry acid and not MA. Could that be it? I...

Nope. Brittle like a super thin brittle candy .

Any experience with this? Been on the fence for a robot for a while. My suction MX8 is starting to act up and I’m not enamored with its cleaning anyway. I’ve got a slightly odd shaped pool. It cleaned my old smaller rectangle pool fine. was going to see if Marina sold it for a better price than...

late post but once I kept testing even after dumping cya in and the dot wouldn’t disappear. I read somewhere you do it in the sun with your back towards the sun. That did the trick.

It’s way too much to be excess cement. Like 2-3 feet of thick brittle material that I can see. I’m thinking its the heater running when it shouldn’t (variable speed .. . I fixed the bypass) and maybe the inside surface of the pvc is separating? I put a bunch of the stuff inside vinegar but it...

Not sure what is going on here. On the return line, after the heater, the pvc was getting pretty beat up. It sprung a leak, so I did a repair and noticed the pvc itself was warping/collapsing. I took photos but accidentally deleted it I guess. There was peeling layers of orange something. Like...

Yeah man. I know there are some who say it’s not necessary. But my pool chemistry is not my hobby. It’s a chore. A PITA to be honest. Phosphates remover gives me a safety cushion for when I slack on the maintenance.

Not from the top but maybe I need to go in with some goggles lol

Bought a house, it already had a pool. So It has a port just below the water line. It’s threaded There was a capped off pipe by the equipment. Figured it was connected so we checked and it was. My buddy who does pools says if I connect it to suction that I need to install a vacuum lock in case...

I have a safety cover so if the MX8 somehow gets detached, the cover flips closed. But I also want to use this line for a return side poolskim. Wondering if there was any warning about having a jandy to divert back and forth.

Added: TLDR: Can I install a valve to switch a line back and forth between return line and suction line or is it a terrible idea that will blow my pump up.