10 Day Old IC-40 Just Went Dark

Good news -- thanks exclusively to you guys, the way smarter than average group of bears and, in spite of my too long ignored and not so great soldering skills, I have somehow managed to effectuate "The Fix" (trademark pending) and, as a result I now have a fully functional salt cell and muriatic acid dispenser back in action. 👍
 
Good news -- thanks exclusively to you guys, the way smarter than average group of bears and, in spite of my too long ignored and not so great soldering skills, I have somehow managed to effectuate "The Fix" (trademark pending) and, as a result I now have a fully functional salt cell and muriatic acid dispenser back in action. 👍
Congrats…no doubt you implemented “The Fix” the right way….you know LP blue jumpers and all. 🤣. All kidding aside give us the deets on how you repaired and how easy you found soldering on to the connector.
 
Congrats…no doubt you implemented “The Fix” the right way….you know LP blue jumpers and all. 🤣. All kidding aside give us the deets on how you repaired and how easy you found soldering on to the connector.
LP, I used all green jumpers just to confuse the daylights out of anybody reading this thread in the future! 😆

I'm just kidding, if I'd had blacks and reds on hand I would have used them, but like LP with his all blue jumpers, I used all green jumpers just because green wire happened to be what was in the drawer. But as LP and Dirk point out above, for any future TFP members trying to implement The Fix, you must solder the bridge wire you connect to your red wires to the IpH connector pin clearly labeled as RED in numbered position 1 on the IpH board. The jump wire from the IpH black wires solders right next door to the pin labeled BLACK in position 2. On my version of the IpH, that RED pin is the one closest to the center of the pc board with the BLACK pin right next to it, but confirm and follow what you see on your version. I'd bet a dollar that red - black positioning has been durable over every revision Pentair has ever introduced on that pc board, but who knows, or at least I don't. Measure 9 times cut once.
 
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All kidding aside give us the deets on how you repaired and how easy you found soldering on to the connector.
The soldering was more difficult than I'd expected. It had been years and, looking back, 98% of the soldering I ever did was in building out pc boards and loading them with components. I didn't know at the time, but that's probably the easiest of all soldering work. The Fix (trademark still pending) requires some McGiver soldering to a component on the board not designed to receive it. Like one of you guys had mentioned, halfway through I was pretty sure I had already roasted that receiving connector on the board, so I was surprised and relieved to see everything light up green once I put the IpH back in the loop. I tested it solo before connecting the IC cell just to make sure all was well. What a relief to finally have everything working again.

Late last fall I had seen trace DE leakage back in the pool. I was really busy and it was close enough to off-season that I kicked that to the curb for spring, so in February I started hunting for that leak. A really long and careful FNS disassemble, clean and rebuild didn't show an obvious tear or crack anywhere so I lubed up the o-rings and hoped for the best, and while I got several hours with no issues, within a day I had DE back in the pool. Another careful, full sunlight, reading glasses on disassemble and reinspect again revealed no obvious source. The bleeder valve screen looked wonky (as usual) so I replaced that and since I was already in there and it was $3, I replaced the standpipe O-ring too. Didn't help. So frustrating. I knew for certain the elements were all intact because I had been all over them twice by now like a medical examiner. The manifold looked okay but I suddenly realized that, given the way those things are manufactured, if your luck was really bad, a seam could have failed in a way that would make it impossible to detect with the naked eye. So I bought a replacement manifold, put that in place and suddenly, for the first time in months, I was DE free. Hallelujah.

Then the next month my 8 year old IC cell failed. Then the replacement cell died 10 days later. Then my IpH turned out to have a latent failure requiring The Fix. Now, for the literally the first time since the fall, everything APPEARS to be working perfectly. I shouldn't even type that.
 
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For any other soldering-challenged owners, WAGO's can take a bunch of the work out. Love these things and they made The Fix faster and easier in my case. If you've got the time and skills, LP's approach is better. Basically LP used the black diamond approach and I used the blue circle.

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For "someone's" future reference, I'm going to take an educated guess that the reason you had trouble soldering those green wires to the board was because of what you had "in the drawer." Soldering stranded wire is usually more difficult than solid, and the gauge of the wire you chose is larger than it needed to be, which also made soldering more difficult. A smaller gauge solid copper wire would have saved you some trouble.

But like most jobs of this sort, the second time you do it, the better it goes! I certainly wouldn't do my fix the same way again! But no matter, we pulled it off and with any luck our IpH/IC combos will work for a good long time. Glad you got 'er done.
 
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Side bar: I'm now using this stuff on any connection outdoors that I can't solder. So far no ill effects, and if it's helping, well, it's the kind of thing you'll never know for sure or be able to prove. But the principle is sound. I like to think it is protecting against future corrosion.


You could have used this stuff on the Wagos, all 16 pins of the original connector (male and female) and on the male and female pins in the IC cable going into the IpH, and IpH cable going into your controller, etc. I have it there, and on all the connectors in my outdoor cams. Cheap insurance.
 
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You could have used this stuff on the Wagos, all 16 pins of the original connector (male and female) and on the male and female pins in the IC cable going into the IpH, and IpH cable going into your controller, etc. I have it there, and on all the connectors in my outdoor cams. Cheap insurance.
Good idea, I should go back in and do that but probably not for a few days. Gotta celebrate everything working first by goofing off on home repair projects. I had actually bought Permatex dielectric grease and a product called DeoxIT D5 last year to throw a hail mary fix at a Harmony 900 universal remote. Great remote but the female USB Mini port on it had that failed due to corrosion, making it impossible to update the remote, which was effectively a death sentence. Those two products solved the problem, but this recent IpH experience makes me realize I could probably swap out that USB Mini port if it ever comes to it. 👍
 
but this recent IpH experience makes me realize I could probably swap out that USB Mini port if it ever comes to it.
Jeez, you let a guy solder a couple of wires and all of a sudden he gets delusions of grandeur! ;)
 

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Kidding aside, I've pulled off some amazing fixes to appliances (washer, dryer, printer) just from poking around the 'net. I've saved thousands. You saved a few hundred with just a couple Wagos and a soldering iron. That's pretty cool. My relationship with social media is love/hate.
 
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Kidding aside, I've pulled off some amazing fixes to appliances (washer, dryer, printer) just from poking around the 'net. I've saved thousands. You saved a few hundred with just a couple Wagos and a soldering iron. That's pretty cool. My relationship with social media is love/hate.
Amen. I do all our AV, IT and home networking stuff. I'm probably better at that but I've been lucky enough to fix a couple of refrigerators and a laundry machine over the last few years. The refrigerators were temperature regulation and ice maker issues and the laundry machine was a failed pump. Actually getting to that pump was the hard part. The product engineers designed that thing so that you had to disassemble almost the entire appliance just to get access to a part that, you'd think, would have been pretty high on the "likely to fail one day" list. Simplifying maintenance and repair was not on their list of design goals.
 
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Here's a question back on topic. Either on this thread or one of the others I read recently, someone pointed out that the IpH control box has been eliminated from a Pentair product manual and may have been discontinued. Would Pentair eliminate the current IpH without introducing a new control box of some kind to replace it?
 
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Here's a question back on topic. Either on this thread of one of the others I read recently, someone pointed out that the IpH control box has been eliminated from a Pentair product manual and may have been discontinued. Would Pentair eliminate the current IpH without introducing a new control box of some kind to replace it?
I expect they would. Without any actual stats, I'd guess that the IpH is a niche market, made smaller by the fact that it is dependent on the presence of an IntelliChlor. Which means they can't sell it to anyone that doesn't have a Pentair pool. So it being discontinued would not be that big of a surprise. And if that has happened, they could just run out the remaining stock and replacement parts and that'll be it.

They could do us a solid and continue to manufacture replacement controllers, but they'd have to fix the problem with it first, otherwise it'll continue to be a loser for them. And since, it seems, they haven't bothered to do that for years (that they've know about the problem) while the product was selling, why would they do that now? So I won't be holding my breath.

That said, we'll have several options.
- We might be able to find a new controller online somewhere for a while.
- We might be able to find a used one that no longer works, for free even, that might just need "The Fix."
- The pump and tank can be run stand-alone, without the controller, with a bit of simple "altering."

That last one is a fine solution. I already have that in place, as do others here. I've tested it over a few seasons and it works fine (I run my tank, sans-controller, during the winter). The tank itself could last indefinitely, and Stenner might offer replacement pumps and motors indefinitely. Or the tank could be used with a different model Stenner pump that would extend the IpH tank's usefulness indefinitely, too.

So it will be unfortunate if they no longer can replace the controller, but you'll still be able to make use of acid dispensing automation pretty much forever.
 
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… It being discontinued would not be that big of a surprise …The pump and tank can be run stand-alone, without the controller, with a bit of simple "altering.” … I already have that in place, as do others here. I've tested it over a few seasons and it works fine.
Good stuff, thanks Dirk. I knew about your “winter work around” from another thread. It’s a genius option but if they abandon the IpH it will still hack me off.
 
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if they abandon the IpH it will still hack me off.
Yah, me too. I've only ever owned the IpH, but compared to other acid dispensing systems I've studied, I think it's the best. The design of the tank is really great. And the way the IpH integrates with the chlorine dispensing is also really good engineering. While not every pool needs regular acid dosing, for those that do, it's a really nice convenience that was, at least at one point, a really good value, price-wise. Other than the odd corporate decision to ignore the over-current issue, which would have been a really easy thing to correct, it's a great product. And it'll be a shame if they give up on it.

I recently had a very old Apple Airport Express poop out on me. I have two, and they are an integral part of my whole-house audio system, which is controlled by my home automation system. It, too, was a great product, which Apple ultimately gave up on and discontinued, with no replacement. No third-party product is available that matches the capability of the Airport Express (for what I need it for). Everything else is a kludge by comparison.

Anywho, I have been expecting this failure, and was considering options should it ever happen. I figured I might be able to find one used, probably for a premium. Turns out there were a slew of them on eBay, for super cheap. Nobody wants 'em anymore. So I bought SIX OF 'EM! That "stockpile" should outlive me!

I've done similarly with some HA devices that were also discontinued. Just bought 'em all up. Nothing lasts forever, but sometimes you can prolong the inevitable!

So maybe snagging a spare controller is something to consider, if the rumors are true. Or gamble and wait it out and pick one up for a song in a few years. If they weren't currently about three bills, I might have already done so.

My "winter wiring" circuit currently only works when the IntelliChlor is offline. But I'll be able to modify the circuit for full-year use, if and when I need to. So I already have that fall-back option waiting in the wings. If I have to modify that circuit, I'll publish a how-to here, so others can make use of it, too.
 
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Here's a question back on topic. Either on this thread or one of the others I read recently, someone pointed out that the IpH control box has been eliminated from a Pentair product manual and may have been discontinued. Would Pentair eliminate the current IpH without introducing a new control box of some kind to replace it?
I just checked the 2024 catalog in the Pentair Partner web portal. It’s still listed in the 2024 catalog as are all the customary replacement parts. It’s now listed as TradeGrade. So it would appear for the time being it’s staying. I may check in with my Pentair rep if I think about it next week to see if there are any inside talks about ceasing production.
 
... I recently had a very old Apple Airport Express poop out on me. I have two, and they are an integral part of my whole-house audio system, which is controlled by my home automation system. It, too, was a great product, which Apple ultimately gave up on and discontinued, with no replacement.
I've got an Airport Express and also an Airport Extreme. They're such well designed products, and every year they keep running perfectly I like them even more.
 
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I've done similarly with some HA devices that were also discontinued. Just bought 'em all up. Nothing lasts forever, but sometimes you can prolong the inevitable!
Despite getting that Harmony 900 back up and running, I also bought a Harmony Elite when Logitech announced they were abandoning that line of business so that I had a backup ready when the time came. Like the Express, another well-designed product that nobody else has managed to match or surpass at anywhere close to the original price point.
 
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I just checked the 2024 catalog in the Pentair Partner web portal. It’s still listed in the 2024 catalog as are all the customary replacement parts. It’s now listed as TradeGrade. So it would appear for the time being it’s staying. I may check in with my Pentair rep if I think about it next week to see if there are any inside talks about ceasing production.
That is really welcome news LP, thanks for sharing. 👍
 
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