TFP pre-SLAM

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Mdragger88 said:
Your cya shouldn’t really change unless you did something that would change it (exchange water, add cya)
If fc falls below 10ppm check ph, adjust if needed & then carry on with slam but it shows 7.6 at last check when your fc was 16ppm - generally the ph test goes falsely high as fc increases over 10ppm so it’s probably fine.
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TY


View attachment 563585

This is day 6 of SLAM. Not done but looks good compared to initial pond green!
 
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Mdragger88 said:
Is that a drain?
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Yes, two of them. The pool guy asked me if I wanted a drain or to 'swirl' it by swimming. I said "drain please", and then there were two! Probably didn't need them since the pump that was given to me is oversized for the pool size. I think my filter may be also cause there is so much swirl the leaves would settle to the center. As the slam progresses I am in pool school for my equipment and salt generator. Many things I know nothing about that most pool owners have already learned.
 
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Great 👍🏻
Make sure to give the drains a good brush & even try to give them a good blast with the water hose nozzle to loosen any gunk that may have settled in there under the covers.
(You have 2 drains for anti entrapment purposes)
Post pics or model numbers of your pump, filter, & salt water chlorine generator so we can identify them & you can have them properly listed in your signature.
We can also help you with how to operate them most effectively etc.
 
Maureen03 said:
I think my filter may be also cause there is so much swirl the leaves would settle to the center.
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It's the 'toilet bowl' effect with a round pool. Floating debris hugs the walls and hits the skimmer on the first lap and heavier stuff collects in the middle. Many inground pools put their returns on opposite sides to create the same effect.
 
Mdragger88 said:
Great 👍🏻
Click to expand...
Mdragger88 said:
Make sure to give the drains a good brush & even try to give them a good blast with the water hose nozzle to loosen any gunk that may have settled in there under the covers.
(You have 2 drains for anti entrapment purposes)
Post pics or model numbers of your pump, filter, & salt water chlorine generator so we can identify them & you can have them properly listed in your signature.
We can also help you with how to operate them most effectively etc.
Click to expand...

Mdragger88 said:
Great 👍🏻
Make sure to give the drains a good brush & even try to give them a good blast with the water hose nozzle to loosen any gunk that may have settled in there under the covers.
(You have 2 drains for anti entrapment purposes)
Post pics or model numbers of your pump, filter, & salt water chlorine generator so we can identify them & you can have them properly listed in your signature.
We can also help you with how to operate them most effectively etc.
Click to expand...

Newdude said:
It's the 'toilet bowl' effect with a round pool. Floating debris hugs the walls and hits the skimmer on the first lap and heavier stuff collects in the middle. Many inground pools put their returns on opposite sides to create the same effect.
Click to expand...
Seems to go so fast it just goes on by.
 

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Newdude said:
It's a fine line to dance. You need enough flow to complete the lap but also not too much to zip on by the skimmer.
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It's definitely zipping! But I am getting enough that I might be better to look at what I have rather than what I could have or think I should have.
 
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I can’t read your pump label - do you know if it is a single speed, 2 speed or variable speed?
For the filter there will usually be a notch or a checkmark somewhere on the label indicating which size it is. (C250, c500, or c750) - btw any one of those sizes is plenty for your small pool. The bigger the filter the longer it takes it to get dirty (reach 25% over clean psi) so the less you will have to clean it.
Your solaxx retro jet swcg produces 1.15 lbs of chlorine/day so you can put that in the settings of your poolmath like this. Be sure to hit the ✔️
IMG_9649.png
This equates to about 1.1 ppm fc per hour if run at 100% (ie. 0.55ppm/hr @50%).
the average daily fc loss in an algae free pool is 1-4ppm depending upon conditions (Season, uv, batherload).
This means that you have a bit of flexibility- you can run it at a low percentage for a longer amount of time or a higher percentage for a short amount of time. What you choose will also depend on if your pump is a single speed (costs the most to run) or a vsp/2speed & how much skimming/debris removal you require among other things like cooling/heating the pool. For instance, I personally run a fountain in the heat of the summer to help cool my pool so I choose to run my pump longer (8-12 hours) in those times even though it isn’t necessary for adequately chlorinating with my swcg & filtering.
Otherwise I can get by with 4-6 hours so long as I set my swcg % accordingly.
 
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With that large single speed pump You’ll want to run the pump as little as possible to reduce electricity costs.
Here’s a quick look at the difference between running 4hrs & 8 hrs with your assumed kwh rate
IMG_9656.jpegIMG_9657.jpeg
 
Maureen03 said:
View attachment 563947
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Thats actually a 50 sq ft filter which is a little small for your volume but that’s ok. It just means you’ll need to clean it more often. As I’m sure you’ve already experienced.
If you ever replace it the rule of thumb is 200 sq ft/ 10k gallons.
 
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