Recent content by jasondestiny11

https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/intellichlor-ic40-swg-falsely-reporting-7500-ppm-salt-level-true-level-is-3-000ppm-not-outputting-chlorine-and-high-salt-light-is-flashing.291946/

I think either your SWG (1) is bad and needs to be replaced, (2) control board is bad and needs to be replaced, or (3) your cell is depleted and SWG needs replacement. I had a similar thread about 2 weeks ago. Mine was reading 7500 salt level on ET and it got all the way up to 9500 (real salt...

Update: I replaced the SWG with a Brand New IC40 and it resolved my issue. There is no longer a high salt flashing light and The Salt Level Measurement in the Easy Touch is now accurate (+150ppm compared to test) but that’s likely because the pool temperature is 80 and I read that every degree...

Also, my MA mixture has always been weak, like 10 parts to 1 (really slow, but effective). I’m going to miss watching that bad boy “boil” the scaling off. It was actually one of my favorite pool chores. In all reality, if my issue is resolved by the SWG replacement, 8 years is reasonable in my...

Will do Jim!

My TA hovers around 100-110 typically. Looks like I’ll be grabbing another test kit. These test kits also have a “shelf life”, so I’m a little skeptical about them, but rely on them over pool store (I do pool store testing as a comparison) TBH, MY pool store tests are pretty accurate (most of...

It’s the K-2005 kit. I’ll dump some MA to bring the Alk down (picture me dumping a gallon straight into the pool like a madman…seriously though, I am a safety nerd with goggles, gloves a proper measurements). It’s weird though because pH is always in 7.2-7.5 range but i didn’t want to drop the...

I love the “electronics may be getting tired”, LOL! Couldn’t have thought of a better way to say that! I get some pretty good scaling on my cell, particularly as it gets warmer. I’m pretty OCD with the pool chemistry (if my wife was reading this she’d say that’s an understatement). I wonder what...

Update: Did the “reset” as recommended. ET still reading 7500. Once I replace the IC40 this week, I’ll update again. Note: The “Good” light is still flashing and I don’t know if this matters, but the “cell” light is dim, but on.

First off, thank you very much for the quick replies and for being a gentleman! I’ll give it a try. My first thought when all this started was “this is an 8-year old SWG so it’s probably a bad sensor or board...probably time to replace it”. The cell hasn’t been used a lot, meaning I purposely...

Yesterday, I did a normal power down, by flipping breakers, unplugged IC40 waited for 15 seconds. After, I plugged IC40 back in and flipped breakers back on. Was still at 7500ppm. Based on your recommendation, I need to do the same thing BUT wait 10 minutes to power ET back on (after plugging...

Also, I went ahead and purchased a new IC40 SWG which is on the way. How could my salt reading on easy touch be so high when salt level is clearly 4500ppm lower?

I’ll do an overnight chlorine loss test as recommended. If I do have an algae problem, what’s the best way to treat for that?