Softub motor cycling on and off repeatedly

[derekm]

I am getting ready to try the capacitor fix. Do I need to drain the pool and disconnect the pedestal to get to the circuit board? There was a youtube video that said I need to drain and disconnect the pedestal. I just want to make sure. Also, is there a seal at the circuit board that will void the warranty? I am still u under warranty but am getting the run around on customer service. Thanks

If you are under warranty, it's always best to get them to supply and install a new circuit board first and see if it corrects the problem. You may also try moving the Softub to a new location with a different electrical outlet. I've never had an issue with their customer service in Canada, but the US may be different. Not sure where the water level is inside, as draining and refilling is not a big deal, and taking the unit apart with water in it would likely cause more of a mess (and risk damage!) than draining it. Adding a capacitor to a connector should not void the warranty (remove it before service).

 

[lac a webber]

My softub is doing the exact same thing as RayRay. Maintains temp but repeatedly turns on and off. This sound slightly different that Oliver's issue (ie no digital temperature indicator fluxuations and cycles constantly). But I have added the capacitors as per RayRay's pictures and I will give it a go next weekend. It was very easy to do. I will post my results, hope it works!

 

[lac a webber]

I am getting ready to try the capacitor fix. Do I need to drain the pool and disconnect the pedestal to get to the circuit board? There was a youtube video that said I need to drain and disconnect the pedestal. I just want to make sure. Also, is there a seal at the circuit board that will void the warranty? I am still u under warranty but am getting the run around on customer service. Thanks

Yes definitely check how much the warranty would cover. If you decide to try the 'Oliver' fix you will have to disconnect the 'hydromate' for sure (3 hoses and a small wire/plug). To avoid draining I had 3 balls/stoppers ready. Also have gloves or rags handy to temporarily stuff in the hole in case your stoppers are not the right size. You will not lose too much water if you are quick. If your water needs draining anyways that might be easier. Mine was fresh and I did not want to wait for new water to heat up. Find a video on youtube on opening the hydromate. The circuit board will have 2 screws and likely some caulking that you may have to remove to get the circuit board to slide out of the housing it is in. Then it is easy to add the capacitors using 'Oliver's' pictures. I had to buy 40 capacitors on amazon for about $10 to get the two I needed.

 

[lac a webber]

Update: The capacitor fix is working! I only got to test it for 12 hours before the electricity went out (power lines down due to high winds) but the softub was no longer cycling on and off. I have had a softub for 15+ years and never had this problem before. Can't help but think it may be a sign that some other issue was causing this that may get bigger but I am happy so far. Anyone who has tried this, please update if this stops working for you, thanks.

 

[Eric J]

I just got a second hand Softub 220 (C-2013 board) with this same issue. Tub would do initial heat up fine but when it's around target temperature, it would turn on for a short time, then off, and repeat maybe every 15-30 minutes. The digital temperature indicator on the controller would fluctuate every second within a range of about 6 degrees. The temperature probes and control panel were replaced by the previous owner to try and solve this issue (which it didn't). I did some troubleshooting with a multimeter and noticed voltage fluctuations across the temperature sensor terminals (red/black). I added a 10uF capacitor on both temperature sensors and that solved the issue instantly. Temperature readings are now stable and correct, tub doesn't turn on/off constantly anymore. Perhaps this can help someone else. I didn't even solder in the capacitors but just shoved them into the holders, so far so good but something more permanent might be a good idea. I'm not sure what is causing these voltage fluctuations, perhaps it's interference from the motor that's not fully accounted for in the board design.

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I registered just to thank you so much for posting this picture and fix for this problem. Softub is zero help other than sending the pak across the country and waiting 4 1/2 to 6 months.
Evergreen Softub the dealer I bought the tub from said they only service Wa. Funny, they serviced me when I bought the tub and they serviced me when I bought 360 dollars worth of supplies 10 days ago but once you have a problem you are on your own.
I have discovered surfing the net this is the norm from Softub, a worthless 5 year warranty that could or could not be honored in 6 months, the rep I spoke to from Evergreen said "6 months will fly by", my doctor that prescribed hydrotherapy would disagree.
I know I will violate my worthless warranty by opening the pak but I need a not tub, not a very overpriced horse trough.
This is my 3rd Softub, first one was an analog but the second one the pak was still good so I kept it and have a good C-2003 board that will also work as a replacement for the C-2013.
This fix is much easier since I don't have to swap the board.
Thanks again, this will help so many people who have been blown off by Softub after taking their money.

 

[NCdjr]

I have a 7 year old Softub. Working fine until the heater started rapidly cycling on and off when target temperature reached… tried the capacitor fix using the described technique and 2 capacitors I bought online. When I reassembled the unit and plugged it in, screen went blank immediately and now it will not turn on. Unit is getting power but screen is out and pump will not turn on. Not sure what happened but it’s totally dead.

Looked online and watched the above YouTube video about replacing the whole circuit board. Anybody tried this? Anyone know where to get a circuit board? My nearest soft tub dealer is over 100 miles away. Don’t see any for sale online.

That was going to be my next move versus just buying a refurbished Hydromate from a dealer online. Cost is around $1200 and I’d like to avoid that if there’s a less expensive way to go.

Thanks

 

[tallen234]

I have a 7 year old Softub. Working fine until the heater started rapidly cycling on and off when target temperature reached… tried the capacitor fix using the described technique and 2 capacitors I bought online. When I reassembled the unit and plugged it in, screen went blank immediately and now it will not turn on. Unit is getting power but screen is out and pump will not turn on. Not sure what happened but it’s totally dead.

Looked online and watched the above YouTube video about replacing the whole circuit board. Anybody tried this? Anyone know where to get a circuit board? My nearest soft tub dealer is over 100 miles away. Don’t see any for sale online.

That was going to be my next move versus just buying a refurbished Hydromate from a dealer online. Cost is around $1200 and I’d like to avoid that if there’s a less expensive way to go.

Thanks

Try disassembling it again. Reseat all the connections and perhaps change the capacitors.

 

[NCdjr]

Update on my progress or lack of. I took everything apart and put it back together without the capacitors and the display remains completely blank and unit is dead. I didn’t realize that capacitors had polarity, which was stupid on my part. I didn’t research it and I obviously don’t know much about electronics. I just read the above thread and tried it myself. I did it over again paying attention to the correct polarity, but the screen is still blank and the unit is still dead. Word to the wise, if you’re going to do the capacitor fix, realize that there’s polarity to the capacitors. I think I fried my board by putting them in wrong. Anyway, I can’t salvage it.

The company I bought it from seven years ago said that the typical lifespan for the circuitboard is about six or seven years anyway. I think I could install a new circuit board if I had one, but the company says soft tub is way behind on production and the only way to get one is to get on a list with a dealer. Dealer says I’ve got to send the whole powerpack to them in order to get it on the list. If they replace the board and fix it, estimated cost is going to be about $800 including shipping, which is still cheaper than buying a rebuilt power pack online. Best price I saw for one of those is about $1000-$1200. Anyone have any other ideas?

Thanks

 

[lac a webber]

Polarity? Really?? I did not pay any attention to polarity and maybe I got lucky and did both correctly but I doubt it. My guess is that some other problem has popped up (although that is a big coincidence that it happened just as you took it apart). More likely that something came loose on the circuit board when you had it out? I know nothing about circuit boards but I have swapped one on a softub. If you go that route take lots of pictures of the correct set up before you start unplugging things. Personally if I was going to cost of getting a new circuit board I would have someone with more experience do it. I didn't mind risking an old one I had lying around.

 

[SunyJim]

I just started having this issue with my 300, we have had the tub for 6 years I think.
Going to do the capacitor fix. If anyone is attempting they do make 'bipolar' capacitors that are not polarity specific.
Otherwise if you are not sure if yours is normal or bipolar. I've attached a pic found on the web of the polarity of a capacitor.
keep in mind they are less than 1$, so amazon is with shipping even with prime. A local electronic place may save you $10 getting these.

 

[SunyJim]

First, thank you to everyone on here. Olivier1 and your awesome fix. Second once I was on there. Ugh a pain in the butt in the snow, but I added some hot glue to keep the capacitor in place (learned that from building computers back in the day) I bought bipolar capacitors, and luckily 4 of them because i busted the leg on one of them trying to stick it in. I also cut the legs down just a little. Then hot glued the board cover closed, and taped the pack back up. The cover was very brittle, being January so a hair dryer made it soft enough to do back up. (it might have a few cracks to fix in the summer with vinyl repair paste) Anyways it works.
I do notice when i first had the control board replaced 5-6 years ago, that 100F would really be 104F in the tub. And now i think that's further apart 105 in the tub is about 98F on the display, so I'm guessing the senors are just deteriorating, and will eventually have to be replaced. Might be from too low PH too often, I use chlorine and mps and it drifts down in PH that needs to be bumped up every 3 weeks or so with (baking soda) PH up. Anyways thank you again eveybody

 

[jyo208]

I'm having an electrical issue with my Softub that's similar to this. Last week I went out to use the tub and it was flashing between 'P' and 'SP1'. I didn't know what the SP1 code was until Googling it since it's not in the manual that came with the tub (it's special temperature mode), so I don't know how it got into that mode.

Pressing any of the buttons on the controls wouldn't do anything (jets wouldn't come on, lights wouldn't come on, temperature buttons weren't working, etc.). I unplugged it and plugged it back in, and it only showed 'P', but the buttons still weren't working. The lights actually came on after pressing ANY of the buttons multiple times, which was very strange. I left it overnight, and magically the next day everything was working again.

Then later that night, it started doing the same thing flashing between 'P' and 'SP1' and the buttons wouldn't function. And again the next day everything magically worked again and it was working fine for about a week.

Then yesterday it snowed, and now it's having the same issue again, so I'm thinking it could be a moisture issue with moisture getting into where the circuit board is on the control panel?

Has anyone run into a problem like this before? I was thinking of letting it dry out to see how things go and then caulking around the outside of the control panel on top of the Hydromate, but I don't know if that's a bad idea?

Here are a couple of videos I took showing the issue: iCloud Photo Sharing

 

[Puppythumpr]

I had the same problem…. Replaced the board ($350) and it fixed it for 2 years…. Now it’s happening again…. The boards suck…. I’ll try caps….

 

[MommaLongNips]

Same problem just started tonight. Luckily I have a couple of these caps on hand. I'll toss them in tomorrow and report back!

Sucks that I have to drain the tub to do this!

 

[Olivier1]

Same problem just started tonight. Luckily I have a couple of these caps on hand. I'll toss them in tomorrow and report back!

Sucks that I have to drain the tub to do this!

I recently fixed a friend's tub which had the same issue and we didn't drain it. You only have to disconnect the air line going to the control panel. Undoing the little rope around the bottom of the motor unit cover was the hardest part.

 

[joemiller]

This capacitor fixed worked on my controller. I didn't have any 10uF caps so I used a 4.7uF and a 47uF cap. It's hard to imagine that the root cause is a sensor power stability issue because why would it take time to develop? Two years in my case. I think another probable cause is a connector issue. To cover all bases, I swabbed the contacts of the connector with some Deoxit, which is a contact cleaner with light dielectric oil to seal/protect the contact (somewhat) from oxidation. The connectors used on this product are tin plated, and tin can build up layers of insulating oxides. This is especially true in an outdoor environment. When some people have replaced their boards the problem goes away then eventually comes back. Perhaps what is going on here is simply the act of disconnecting the terminals and reconnecting them is removing the oxide layers and exposing fresh tin plating. Same for the people who have applied the capacitors. They have disturbed the contacts and established fresh contact surfaces. The addition of the capacitors may be putting a band-aid on the issue by smoothing out any intermittent contact that develops over time due to the build-up of oxides on the contacting surfaces. I have to admit though, that the contacts on my board looked pristine however, they did seem to stick a little when removed.

 

[kao508]

I tried the capacitor addition over the weekend but the heat/pump cycling on and off issue persists. My next step is to replace the temperature sensor. I have a Soft tub 300 (2018 -- bought it used, was fine up until now). I'm having trouble finding the part number for the temperature sensor. Does anyone have a source I could try? And also wondering if there are standard temperature sensors that may be available at my local pool/spa service place. Thanks in advance for any guidance!

 

[MommaLongNips]

UPDATE: Took a little longer to do the capacitor fix as we had a cold front here in Colorado. Did the capacitor trick earlier today and so far so good. Temp seems to be much more stable, just waiting for the tub to get up to temp.

 

[Puppythumpr]

Cap trick worked for me… I just bent the leads over to act as a spring and shoved them in the connector…I used non polar 25V 10uF caps….

 

[Puppythumpr]

Cap trick worked for me… I just bent the leads over to act as a spring and shoved them in the connector…I used non polar 25V 10uF caps….

BTW I didn’t drain the tub…. You just have to shove a rag or cork the air inlet so water doesn’t come out…