I tried to login to my account. Got an error message account not found.
Now I'm logged in, but my pool info is gone. Only my old pool info os there. Can you help

Knock on wood, the only problem this season. The water has been crystal clear all year. Here are readings from yesterday (we use PoolMath to track all activity):
FC 6.5 pH 8.0 TA 85 CH 325 CYA 60 CSI 0.38 Temp 84
Acid was put in 6 days ago, dropped pH to 7.6 but it bounced back up; this has happened repeatedly. The only other comment I could make is we're getting what I think is mildew on the floating thermometer where it gets wet then dries, and in the skimmer above the waterline. Both clean off rather easily with Mr. Clean Magic Eraser.

Suggestions are appreciated.

My pool was installed 9 years ago. It was and is my first pool, and while I educated myself on overall project cost, I just rolled with my contractor’s defaults in terms of decking, which was Kool Deck.

I am fine with the Kool Deck, other than cleaning it. We have a large wooded lot, and we live in a warm humid climate, so I expected there to be some organic buildup in the cracks and crevices, aside from just dirt.

I keep the deck swept, and don’t let pine needles, leaves, etc. sit around for long. But every year, the grime gets darker and the buildup gets more stubborn. I have tried the power washer with the deck-cleaning attachment, I’ve tried the power washer without the deck-cleaning attachment (though I’ve never tried the 0°/15°/25° nozzles out of fear of blasting off the Kool Deck coating), I’ve tried Wet & Forget, and I’ve even tried full strength roof algae cleaner. Nothing makes much of a dent.




As you can see, it’s really starting to look gross, and worse, some areas are starting to get slippery. Which I cannot have.

I am not sure what else to try, but would be grateful for any constructive suggestions beyond what I’ve already done.

Please and thank you.

New home and pool owner here! Looking to take over maintenance duties from the previous owner’s maintenance guy, and I would love some advice on where to start, based on the readings below (calculated using the TF-Pro test kit). The pool is, according to my rough calculations, about 18,000 gallons. It is a plaster pool, built in 2016. Anyway, here are the levels:

pH 8.2 using little the little plastic comparator
Alkalinity 160
Free Chlorine drop test 5
Combined Chloramimes 0.0-0.5
Calcium hardness 350
CYA 90

Based on what I’ve read, should I start with lowering the pH by adding muriatic acid? Then, should I move to increase calcium since it is on the low end of normal? it seems that my CYA is also too high. What’s the best way to reduce it?

Thank you in advance! This website is so helpful!

Hi All,

Thanks a lot for helping me with my pool selections. I requested an upgrade to the white pool plaster and my pool builder is offering 60% blue quartz plaster. I am assuming they will add some quartz aggregate to the white plaster. I thought the aggregate plasters come from different manufacturers and have specific names, e.g., stonescapes, pebble sheen, etc. I looked for 60% quartz plaster but did not find any good info on that. I wanted to check if anyone is familiar with this product or have used it? If yes, I will appreciate if you can share your thought on it and if you have any recommendations regarding it or on requesting a different product. Thanks in advance.

Hello everybody, I have a customer with Easytouch automation and the 3amp circuit breaker for the "Electronics" is tripping causing no power to the display. I've always farmed out heaters and automation to other companies but I'm finally starting to suck it up and attempt to learn more this year. I'll be taking courses from the local Pentair reps here in Phoenix after the summer comes to a close. Anyway, back to the issue at hand. I had done some searching after getting the call from a customer last night frantic that her pool pump and pump for their Koi pond shut down and the system was blank. I went there this morning and started with testing power from the transformer to the plug to the main board. Electronics are listed as 10vac, Relays 18vac and Valves 24 vac. I was able to push in the circuit breaker long enough to get a reading of 5 volts for electronics but tripped a few seconds after, Relays came in at 15 volts , Valves came in at 20. This seems to be low from what I've read. I attempted to check DC voltage at the J20 plug and got nothing between the Black and red. At this point I bypassed the pumps from the automation and wired them to the line side of each relay to get the pool and pond going again for the time being (both intelliflo pumps) . Can anyone offer some more insight to what I should look at when I return to the customer's home next week? Any help would be greatly appreciated, I feel like such an amateur when it comes to heating and automation after being in the industry for 9 years now.

I bought a house with a pool last month and today there was air bubbles coming out of the returns and bubbles in the pentair pump (visible through window on strainer basket). In my newb attempts to bleed air out of the system, I tried the air pressure relieve valve on top of the filter and accidentally broke it. The filter is a Waterway Crystal Water DE filter (yes, I know it’s a piece of Crud). It’s going to take 4-5 days to get the part, and I’m worried about leaving the pump and filter off for that long. Was thinking of temporarily inserting a cork or some sort of rubber stopper and using zip ties to keep in place to run the pool for a few hours a day until the part arrives.

Any advice on how I can temporarily get the system online until the part gets here? Or any alternative approaches?

Any and all advice is appreciated.

I’m learning that my now fired pool pro had some pretty wonky settings on my Intellichem setup. I’ve noticed that when my pH rises (even say 7.4 setpoint to 7.5 or 7.6), Intellichem will always reach its dose limit before bringing it back down. Can someone help to set the appropriate dose limit options in the pH menu of Intellichem? It is currently set to dose 10oz at a time up to 70oz limit for 24 hours. For my 33k gallon pool, what should this be set at? Maybe a dumb question and I should just increase the dose limit? The reason I ask is that I watched an Intellichem setup video where the dose limit was set much lower.

Hi everyone. I need some serious advice!!
My name is Becky and I live in CA. After debating for years, I decided to put in a pool!

I chose to go with a smaller pool company, as opposed to the bigger local companies. I loved their family-owned feel and the fact that things felt more personal.
I cannot say for sure, but we are now 2 1/2 months into our build, and I feel I am discovering the downsides of a smaller company, especially during/post Covid and all of the resulting supply chain and labor shortage issues.

Progress after excavation has been slow and frustrating. We have gunite, waterline tile, our water feature/ wall, plumbing, and some equipment in place. Next up is decking prep and concrete pour. After that, we still need solar, pool pump/ equipment, and of course the pebble finish...
This leads me to a couple important questions that I need help on:

1 - Our contract includes Wet Edge Signature Matrix , and I spent MANY hours choosing a color - Cadet Blue with abalone.
Due to a supposed labor shortages in the area, the sub-contractor company that does the pebble finish for our pool company has apparently made it clear that there are big delays and they are not offering firm dates at the moment (they are giving set dates to the customers of the larger companies however).
The woman I am working with has avoided guessing (this may not be in her control and I get that), but last we talked she thought we could be waiting until late September, as opposed to early August. Soooo, she suggested that we go with their backup (I hear lower quality??), company and use the product they are contracted with - Finest Finishes, instead of Wet Edge. Included in our contract would be the "Island Series", but I had hoped to upgrade to their "Universal Mini Pebble" and would need to pick a color yet again.

So, do we agree to change companies, and therefore use a different product? Do we opt to wait for the original product/company/color, or do we switch over to get it done faster? Anyone have insights that could help me on this?

2 - Please help me understand the pros/cons of salt water. Currently we are signed up for it, but I recently heard that it could be a mistake. Thoughts? Does it in fact ruin concrete decking?

3 - Lastly, can someone help me understand drainage? Again, I thought it was included in our contract, but apparently we will have to pay more if we opt to go with a strip drain (which I think we may need). I'd hate to have water pooling up on the deck by the house...

Thanks in advance - I'm feeling overwhelmed!
-Becky

I only installed last year, so I do not expect to need a new cell soon. But still looking around...

Amazon has the Original for $599
Circupool has an Aftermarket model for $499
Discount Salt has "Optimum" T-cell 15 for $399

Anyone have experience with the discount aftermarket models? I know to stay away from Blue-wave

I take care of a 5000gal gunite pool that has a pentair easytouch system with an Intellichlor IC20 SWG. The easytouch controls the cell. The transformer and daughter board are inside the easytouch box. For several weeks now there has been no chlorine when I test the water. I keep the CYA levels between 60-70. All other parameters are kept where they should be, and I service all my pools twice a week. I first cleaned the salt cell according to the directions for the IC20, I even bought one of those stands to hold it. I checked the transformer, it’s outputting 30vac, which is in line with what specs I could find online of 22~39vac, so in the middle. The daughter board is outputting 38vdc. When the cell light is on it draws about 3amps. So I came to the conclusion the cell maybe stopped working, it was at 80% life, but the plates inside were corroded badly. When I took over this pool it was completely blocked and scaled up, so it wasn’t too hard to believe that the abuse it had seen just caused an early death. It even had a burnt out led on the output level indicator.

But now I’ve put on a brand new cell, and still no chlorine. The lights on the cell light up like they should, but even when I test the water from the output jet there is no chlorine. I’m out of ideas on what could be the problem. If anyone has any suggestions I’d sure appreciate it.

Test from today - Ph 7.5, Chlorine 0, Alkalinity 90, Salt 3650ppm, Cya 70, Calcium Hardness 180, TDS 5320

I’m using a Taylor test kit and and electronic tester for the salt and tds. I don’t normally check tds, but thought it might be useful to know. I have several pools that I maintain, this is the only one that I have this problem with.

Hey gang. I am fearing that my control board has gone bad and before I take the plunge into an expensive replacement, I wanted to get some advice from smarter people than me on what else I could troubleshoot.

-Would anyone by chance have a schematic for the board that shows logic flow?
-I already have the Pentair Troubleshooting flow chart but it's not yielding anything but "replace board".

I should preface this with the fact that back in May my heat exchanger died. After 4 diffferent orders for parts that were cancelled, I finally lucked out on a wait list and received a new kit 474059. Spent last weekend cleaning and replacing the coil along with all of the corresponding components in the kit.

I don't believe this error is related to the coil (gaskets, ignitor, insluation, etc..) All parts in kit (except manifold by-pass valve kit) were installed.

So. I had a new Thermistor that I bought last Fall because I can recall the E01 coming up before we winterized and figured I would attack the problem in the Spring.

-Swapped Thermistors -still the same error.
-Took my multimeter out and both thermistors test OK - new one at 11K Ohms, installed one at 9.4K Ohms.
-Tested the wires from the thermistor to the board for continuity -checks out OK.

Note: The Temp Fault resistor on the board has a brown spot on it (possible burn) but that resistor which is marked as 2K Ohms also checks out- reading just below 2K.... See PIC
-- Could it be that even if the resistor measures the right resistance, it could still be faulty?
--Is this resistor related to the Thermistor or the High Limit switch?

On boot-up, I get "Service Heater" light on panel w E01 and then the display shows 126 after the self-checks.

Looking at the LEDs on the board, I have 2 that are Lit:
-LED 7 -which is at the power input -that must be normal.
-LED 11 - which is not marked but it's lit. Is this normal operation?
-NONE of the other circuit LEDs are lit: PS/HLS/AFS/AGS/SFS.

I don't see any other burn marks or other signs on the board that might indicate a blown components. See PIC

Is there anything else I can check or troubleshoot board or system wise before I buy a new board?

Thanks in advance!! Marc

Dirk said:

Sorry, I didn't answer that part. No, that's not what that means. If the breaker was bad, or just weak, and was tripping under load, it would very likely do nothing while not under load, so that's not a legit troubleshooting conclusion. Jim has suggested to another here that you could go about this cheapest first.

Replace the breaker first.
Then the surge board.
Then the IC last.

The other way to look at it, is if you replace the IC first, and that isn't the problem, that's not money lost. You'll have a new one, and a backup. You'll still get all the chlorine you paid for out of each. You'd use the new one first, until its warranty expires, then plug in the old one until its done, then go back to the new one. The only possible loss is if the ICs come down in price after supply chain issues resolve. But it's just as likely their price will continue to rise, so that's a roll of the dice. See what I mean?

I had suggested to another here, having the same issues, to temporarily replace the breaker with a cheap 12 amp auto fuse. You'd have to be handy with such things (it's an unorthodox solution, that would require some klugie wiring), but it'd only be a few dollars. Those breakers aren't cheap. But if you're more of a plug-n-play sort, and wiring is not your thing, the replacement will be the much simpler option.

Sorry, I didn't mean to step on your troubleshooting with Jim. Too many cooks. He's our Pentair expert, so I defer to him...

Click to expand...

I've followed this discussion with interest as I found my 12A breaker continually tripped. The pool guys here said that the breaker was bad, and being a new pool owner, I thought they knew what they were doing and replaced it. Nope, not the problem and the breaker was hard to find and expensive.

Since disconnecting the IC40 does not solve the problem the issue is highly probably to be the "surge" board. Again very expensive at over $250 and since I'm an electrical engineer I wondered what could be so esoteric that demanded that pricing. Imagine my surprise to find the board extremely simple. It has two purposes:

1. Surge protect the communication lines between system elements (I think the chlorinator and the main control board). This is done with a standard set of varistors attached to each of the comm lines. Varistors are cheap and effective. It's why this is called the "surge" board apparently.

2. Rectify the 24VAC power to 32VDC power for the IC40. This is done with a simple full wave bridge rectifier, which is basically 4 diodes arranged in a diamond pattern.

It turns out that the bridge rectifier component on my Surge board is shorted. This can happen from excess heat generated during operation and often occurs when the component is underspecified or too tight to actual operational tolerances. A new component is $4 at Mouser.com.

So, my approach on this is going to be to see if this is still under warranty, and if it isn't I'll replace the damaged rectifier with one that will handle 25A (with the same standard footprint). I'm guessing at this point but this setup seems a little "tacked on" to the design. Of course, my system is simpler because I don't have the iPH module, which apparently has it's own problems, perhaps of the same nature.

I have a complex network; modem, router, and switch. I plugged the ScreenLogic components into both the LAN slot on the router and into a switch slot. Both shut down my network. Any configuration ideas to remedy?

Hi all,

My Pentair Intellitouch i5s seems to be acting up. Specifically:

• I noticed the automation didn't seem to be working anymore.
  • When I looked at the App, it showed that there was a "System Delay" with "Pool Off Delay".
  • I can't cancel the delay and/or perform any actions from the app or the wall controller in the house.
• If I go out to the pad, put the system into service mode, it seems the main pump is always on/has power.
  • Hitting the "F - Filter Pump" button causes a click, the first one loud, second one quieter
  • However the pump itself always has power and can be manually controlled w/ start & stop button (Whisper/IntelliFlo VS Pump)
  • All other functions (booster, heater) seem to work fine in service mode.
• Also, of note, the temperature sensors (air and water) don't seem to register at all.

I'm assuming the relay has gone bad? Perhaps the best thing to do is swap the main relay for the one all the way on the right that is not used? Would love any tips and/or advice. Attached a few photos to help folks with the setup. Appreciate your help!

SWG was spot on the 1st week - 3.5 PPM. Starting to get on the high side now - 5+ PPM.
I just adjust the Ichlor 30 from 60% to 50%. The pump is running 12 hrs. A day at 2800 rpm.
Just wondering if everyone just keeps adjusting the output or at some point reduce the time that the SWG runs.
PB instructed to set the SWG on the same time schedule as the pump.
Jon

Hello TFP members! This is my third summer of pool ownership and our first SLAM procedure. Carelessly let the FC drop lower than needed for a few days and shortly after started noticing what seems to be mustard algae blooms. Performed a "half-way" SLAM with lower FC levels thinking I could get away with cutting corners and here I am....

SLAM began last Thursday at Ph 7.3 and CYA 50. Progress was going smoothly until today, which was supposed to be the final mustard algae shock level day. OCLT showed a 0.5 FC loss with the morning FC at 19.5.
Around noon, FC was raised to 30, followed by liquid chlorine additions several times throughout the day to keep the FC at 30. Water tests were not performed during the day to save on reagents.


The Pool Math log doesn't show it, but the pool was brushed and vacuumed daily (Ladder was removed and light niche brushed as well). CC readings not recorded as they were not tested for every time; when tested for CC was always 0.0 ppm.
Pool Math Log (Timestamps are incorrect as my time is -4 from the recorded values, although they are shown correctly in the APP)

My R-0871 running thin as each test uses ~40 drops at the necessary SLAM FC level, and even more during mustard algae SLAM! What could be the issue here? Could it be the reagents?

Hi,
Been looking on how to set up night cooling on easy touch 4 system. I live in Florida, and currently the water is really warm and stays so through the night. I have solar panels which are not coming on because of the temperature but would like to circulate the water through them at night to help cool down the pool. Can't find much info on what setting should be set to do this and how it is activated at night. Would like this to happen automatically at night if possible, based on water temperature.
Thanks
Bill

Going through a number of tests for a leak detection, one of the things i noticed is that my water level is a little lower on my shallow end skimmer vs the deep end skimmer (main drain area). Lower in terms of measuring the water level with a tape measure relative to the skimmer opening size. Is this normal or an indication of something or did they just misalign the skimmers? I believe I am on a higher water table which is why there is a sump pit installed if that matters. With all this being said also going forward when keeping an eye on proper water level should i then be focusing on the shallow end skimmer? TIA

Wow! The City of Katy, Texas (just west of Houston) is under Severe water conservation rules, with fines, threats of water cut off, and even a "report your neighbor" email address. Landscape watering is two days a week with your days based on last digit of your address, and with limited hours--midnight to 8am and 8pm to midnight. I can't find that it's a violation if you on your watering day water from say 12:01am to 1:30am and AGAIN from 10:30pm to 11.59pm, which would be like two days in a row (but you didn't read that here.)

And potentially worse, there is a ban on filling a new pool or drain and refill of an existing pool! Fine for watering off your scheduled day is $100-$2,000, but only after first a written warning. Filling a pool doesn't have a specified fine, so if your pool is under construction, be careful with your landscape watering...so that the first notice comes for filling a new pool.

Note. I've received no written notice of the mandatory restriction. My wife heard it on a local TV news broadcast, but it is a station that I never watch. It's also on the city of Katy home page, but I never look there either. There is nothing about the restrictions on the page where you pay your water bill. Not much comfort if they turn my water off. Just in case, though, I'm shopping for a 5,000 gallon water storage tank. I'll deal with the HOA if necessary.

Moved from here.
I have same situation in my salt water pool with all pentair equipment. First I don’t know what Slam is? I have a large sand filter so also don’t understand where sand like particles are coming from. Help.

Looking for the right system for my pool of 20K gallons in sunny Florida.

A 40K generator would be the minimum size, but I am leaning toward 60K as the cost premium is not that much more.

I like the Pentair IC60KIT, but the requirement for professional installation for a warranty is a bit disturbing.

I do not have automation for my pool. Might be nice, but not right now.

So, we have a very old concrete pool that came with the house we bought in 2013. This year, our plan was to do some minor re-plastering and then repaint the interior. We also wanted to replace the media in our sand filter.

Well, part way through the sanding and plastering, we decided to address a broken ladder step in the deep end. This was a mistake, and I apologize for everything you are about to read and see next.

With and angle grinder and a chisel, I got the old ones out and created enough room to fit new ones in, which we bought online. And that's it... that is where I am stuck now. I've realized now that there are not many resources out there that cover this process, because it is probably not a wise thing to do. I have seen a video where a company does this by literally cutting them out while still submerged, so I know that somebody is crazy enough to try this kind of thing (in scuba gear, no less). And my wife linked me a support thread where someone briefly mentioned this kind of thing as an option. But I am in need of more guidance than that, and think I am very unlikely to get it, at this point. But if you do have any tips on how I can get these new steps in and secured and watertight myself, than I am all ears.

But the real reason I am posting this is to know just how bad I have hurt my chances of ever using the pool again. I have tried two different kinds of cement (Hydraulic and a 5000 PSI generic), but bailed out when I got frustrated with the consistency being too difficult to work with. Is this something I can call a local pool builder to help me with? And how difficult of a job would this be for a professional? And how much do you think they might charge me to tackle this job ($500 or $5000)?

I think this is the right place for this...(please move if not)

Anyway, I don't usually pull a lot of air in my system. But this year, I am getting quite a bit. The thing is that none of it is in the pump, where I would see it in the past with various issues. The water stays pinned to the top of the pump lid all the time, yet every few hours and before I turn it off, I crank the pump up to max speed to blow out the air that's accumulating and get all the giant burps blowing into the pool.

What I did notice though is that if I vent the filter (not sure if this is common, but I can turn the gauge on top of it and let air out) that will alleviate the need for the burps. In other words, there's a lot of air in the filter but nowhere else.

I injured my leg earlier this summer and, because of where my equipment is haven't really been able to get up and look closely at the equipment but I did have a friend hand check all the fittings and everything seemed tight (replaced SWCG earlier this year). My initial thought is that when we opened this year, we didn't get the filter lid seated properly and that's where the issue is. Does this make sense? The only other thing I could think of is the line from the pump into the filter, but I have no reason to believe there's an issue there at all.

Here's my equipment pad - pump is a little ways away and downhill (long story)

Had new pool put in and PH is 8.2, FC is 12.0, CC is 0.5, TA is 50 and CYA is 95. I just added 2.5 cups of baking soda. I also think I turned off chlorinator on OmniLogic. I am using TFTestkit and signed up for premium on pool math app. Does math app give guidance on what to add or can anyone help? I have 11,200 gallon fiberglass pool.

I just noticed the INTEX 26679EG QX2600 SWG is on sale and thinking of swapping out my current INTEX 26651EG
SX3000 sand filter for it. I have around 6500 gallons in my Intex AGP.

The QX2600 flows less than my SX3000. Flow rate is 2150 vs 2450 and chlorine output is 11g/hr.

My frame already has rust on it going into the 3rd season and the plan is to take it down, knock the rust off and re-spray the frame. Then put everything back up. In doing so I figured I could just swap to SWG since my concern was the salt water would eat the Intex frame. Evidently regular water does too

When talking to a friend he said going SWG isn't worth it since there is alot of issues with salt cells going out and other things. Just easier to add chlorine, but I'm tired of adding it daily

Any words of wisdom from experience?

Link to the pump: https://amzn.to/3nZzckK

Apologies in advance for the long description…

20+ yr old 20x40 36,000g in-ground pool with a DE filter setup (ProGrid 4820). I’ve been removing and reinstalling the filter/motor etc for 20 years without an issue.

This year upon assembly the pump motor didn’t run. I replaced the capacitor to no avail, then replaced the motor with a Century exact replacement. I do t have the specs in front of me but I’ve done this before and was pretty careful to match RPM and look at the pump curves. I’m a Chem Eng by formal education.

I then proceeded to create a HUGE problem by purchasing and charging the filter with what I thought was DE, but was Perlite. At one point the filter was over saturated with the stuff and it was passing into the pool. I also - for the first time - could not maintain suction with the vacuum connected to the skimmer.

I finally got rid of the Perlite by repeatedly brushing the pool and running the filter 24x7. It took more than a week, but finally cleared up. The loss of suction with the vacuum problem still remains.

After 3-4 weeks of use, I was getting some algae growth around the perimeter. Had the water tested - Chlorine and phosphates were way too high (15ppm and 1200, resp.). I was advised to turn the chlorinator off for a few days and use PhosFree. As I should have guessed the pool immediately turned into a green swamp. After running by filter for another 5-6 days (and backwashing the filter 2-3 times) it is still green and swampy (chlorinator went back on when Cl2 was in range) and I can see a ton of what looks like DE on the bottom of the pool. I desperately want to vac it to waste, but cannot maintain suction.

My questions are not about pool chemistry - if needed those will come later - but about the suction issue.

While running the suction from both the main drain and the two skimmers, the system runs fine. There is air coming from the discharge jet, and if I leave the bleed on top of the filter cracked it will constantly sputter.

If I divert the suction to EITHER the main drain OR the skimmers, I can see the water level dropping in the filter basket and it will eventually lose suction.

At first I thought maybe I had a leak in the line, but since the skimmers and main drain have separate lines, that’s not logical. The lines come up from the ground and are connected at a single directional valve that is inches from the pump. I’ve removed the pump connection/union, replaced the o-ring, checked it for level and tightened the coupling. I’ve also rebuilt the pump head.

It is possible that the air and vacuum loss are unrelated. I am wondering if air is causing the issue - or could the lines leading to the pump be clogged with perlite? The stuff is a bit sticky and almost like glue - I had to get a rag with some soap to clean it off the inside of my filter.

I don’t have a setup to leak test. I went and saw someone weeks ago to come leak test, but despite me giving them my CC they never showed.

I also ordered a boroscope today to snake down the skimmer to have a look.

Any/all ideas/advice welcome.

Lastly - is it possible to connect the vacuum directly to the pump head union? I don’t see how I could get a tight connection or fill the 50’ hose sufficiently with water to start the suction - but someone suggested that to me. Again - suggestions appreciated.

Thanks in advance -

I have a gunite pool around 45,000 gallons. My CH was sitting around 225-240 for a week or so. I added around 40 lbs of calcium chloride. Chlorine was at a 6 (CYA 50). This was tested & added when the sun was setting. The next morning chlorine was completely gone. This has also happened once before but I figured maybe it was a fluke or something but since it happened again & I have more calcium chloride to add, I figured I’d try to see if there was a way I could keep this from happening. This was about a week ago & fc has been great since.

Hi All.
I have a new inground plaster pool. It was installed with a aqua rite salt water system. Initially it had a T3 cell for a 18k gallon pool, obviously too small so before I added salt I installed a T925. Ever since I switched it out to a T925 (Hayward) I’m getting bubbles in two of my return lines . They are tiny bubbles and the jets are noisy. The pump basket looks good. No major bubbles and the pressure on my 325sq foot filter sits right around 10-11 and hasn’t moved since install. The pressure from the jets is also strong and hasn’t changed since I installed the 925 Swcg and added salt to the pool. Any ideas what the bubbles are? I don’t understand why I’d all of sudden be getting air in my system. Btw, I have a single sped super pump, if that matters. Any help or advice would be great!