Zinc Anode for Salt Water Pools, is that recommended?

[Rockstead]

I’ve had my pool for about 13 years, dealing with some rust that was caused by some soldering of a fence done near by.

I was looking to purchase a replacement SWG and one of the recommended items was a Zinc Anode, is that a thing now that is recommended to prevent rust in pools like you would have in a metal water heater?

 

[mknauss]

Not needed.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

It’s a placebo. The zinc anode does nothing but slowly corrode into a cup underneath it due to the fact that zinc metal is not chemically stable in pool water (and no, that “sacrificial” corrosion doesn’t protect anything). If you have metallic components in the pool that are showing signs of corrosion then it is due to a material problem. There are steels that suited for chloride rich environments and ones that are not. Often times pool equipment makers will use the wrong grade of steels on screws and fasteners because they think swimming pools are “fresh water” … they are not. So you should look to those areas where you are seeing corrosion and try to figure out if there’s a material incompatibility problem first.

 

[JamesW]

Is that a thing now that is recommended to prevent rust in pools like you would have in a metal water heater?

The Summit Heat Pump has a Titanium Heat Exchanger.

If titanium is corroding, then you have some seriously bad chemistry.

dealing with some rust that was caused by some soldering of a fence done near by.

Metal particles that are dropped in the pool are going to cause rust regardless of what you do unless you get them out right away.

Cutting, grinding and welding metal like iron or steel near the pool can throw a lot of tiny iron or steel particles in the water and they need to be vacuumed out the same day or you will get rust stains.

Every effort should be taken to prevent metal particles of any type from being introduced into the pool.

Cutting, grinding and welding create tiny hot metal particles with a high surface area to volume ratio, and that makes them particularly prone to rusting at an accelerated rate.

 

[JamesW]

Based on your previous threads, I don't think that you have a corrosion issue with any of your equipment.

The steel walls behind the liner are probably rusting.

All galvanized walls oxidize to some degree.

Most of the time it is the zinc that corrodes and you get a white powder or paste.

This is more prevalent when there is a high water table.

The iron can begin to rust once the zinc plating has been consumed.

If you had zinc anodes bolted directly to the galvanized steel walls, it might reduce the rusting of the steel walls some, but I don't really know if it would be effective enough to be worth doing.

The effect might be marginal at best.

I might do it for a new build just on the off-chance it might help as the cost is not too bad for zinc anodes.

The light rim is probably rust from the metal galvanized steel walls.

Verify that the walls are steel with a magnet.

The spots on the floor look like they are due to something under the liner coming through the liner.

The spots on the steps could be from metal cutting or grinding nearby which can throw metal particles into the water.

My in ground pool has signs of rust around light, returns, skimmer, and stairs and I’m quite worried! Pics inside, please help!

My pool is about 10 years old, I’ve never had this problem before and I’m worried about what it means for the life of my pool and what my next steps should be. I have one return that has a broken faceplate and the liner behind it wrinkled a little, I hope this is not where water came in...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Pool walls will always rust, it’s just a fact of life. They are buried in earth and exposed to ground water with varying levels of mineral content and pH. The galvanized coating simply delays the inevitable - steel walls will eventually rust through and fail. There’s no simple solution for it as the amount of engineering it would take to stop that kind of corrosion would triple the cost of the walls.

Skip the anode, it’s not going to do anything.

 

[1poolman1]

I’ve had my pool for about 13 years, dealing with some rust that was caused by some soldering of a fence done near by.

I was looking to purchase a replacement SWG and one of the recommended items was a Zinc Anode, is that a thing now that is recommended to prevent rust in pools like you would have in a metal water heater?

Not usually needed, but if it makes you comfortable, get the Pool Tools one that mounts in your skimmer basket. Less expensive and will act as a weight to help keep the basket in place.

 

[Newdude]

+1. And in regards to the walls, a 16x32x4 ft wall has 4096 of surface area front and back. What could a 2 square *inch* anode possible do, even if it did what people hoped ?

For the typical reccomedation of 1%-2% of the surface area, the wall anode would need to be 40 - 80 sq ft.

 

[dielseman]

So to confirm the zinc anode is not recommended for a salt water pool?

 

[ajw22]

So to confirm the zinc anode is not recommended for a salt water pool?

It will not hurt anything if you install it other then your wallet.

We don’t recommend gadgets that have no benefit.

 

[bradgray]

The presence of an anode has played a role in determining whether or not Pentair covered heat exchanger failures for our region. In fact, its often been the determinant when corrosion was most likely electrolytic.

*Edited*

The presence of an anode can be used as an early warning system. This has been suggested by our reps with Pentair.

I have no alliance with either side of this court, but for what it's worth to someone who reads this and has a MasterTemp heater-- disregard the may/may-nots and treat it like a policy instead. It may be cheap insurance.

 

[ajw22]

The presence of an anode has played a role in determining whether or not Pentair covered heat exchanger failures for our region. In fact, its often been the determinant when corrosion was most likely electrolytic.

I have no alliance with either side of this court, but for what it's worth to someone who reads this and has a MasterTemp heater-- disregard the may/may-nots and treat it like a policy instead. It may be cheap insurance.

Is that anywhere publicly in writing from Pentair?

 

[bradgray]

Is that anywhere publicly in writing from Pentair?

No. It's not even listed as best practice.
But it may influence the decision makers at local levels, whether folks believe it should or shouldn't.
*Edited*

 

[Newdude]

+1. I couldn't convince my Pentair rep of what made more sense, including undeniable facts such as which part # was stamped into my filters. She had her mind made up and that was that.

It was about my filter and not an anode, but her persona or whatevs you want to call it would be the same across topics.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

I get the idea of “just put it in there anyway” but, if a Pentair rep is going to pull that position then Pentair should either state it explicitly in their installation manual and provide guidance on how to properly install it or provide technical guidance from their engineering department proving the necessity.

They are trying to have it both ways - they’re demanding you install something that has no provable benefit and yet they won’t explicitly say why because they don’t want to box themselves into a liability corner. Because, if a manufacturer tells/requires you to do something and it doesn’t work, then the liability is on them when it fails. So they create a vague situation where they get to pick and choose whatever stupid reasoning they want to put the onus back on the pool owner and relieve themselves of financial liability.

I’d have no problem arguing with a local rep and going g over their heads if possible. And if that doesn’t work, well, Twitter is a beautiful thing for trashing the reputations of companies. I’m happy to play the “oh just give him what he wants so he shuts up” game …

 

[ajw22]

No. It's not even listed as best practice.
But it may influence the decision makers at local levels, whether folks believe it should or shouldn't.

If an anode is important for heater longevity and warranty purposes then Pentair should put it in the heater as Raypak now does with their Protek Shield.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

If an anode is important for heater longevity and warranty purposes then Pentair should put it in the heater as Raypak now does with their Protek Shield.

Not only that but also describe to the pool owner how often it needs to be inspected, serviced (cleaned), and replaced. It is a consumable item and so it requires attention and the manufacturer needs to describe what that looks like.

 

[JamesW]

Not only that but also describe to the pool owner how often it needs to be inspected, serviced (cleaned), and replaced. It is a consumable item and so it requires attention and the manufacturer needs to describe what that looks like.

The manufacturer will require that you have the anode serviced thrice yearly by an authorized Dealer and you have to submit the yearly inspection reports within 24 hours of the inspection.

The anode must be weighed, cleaned, photographed and then reinstalled and calibrated.

The service costs $250.00 per visit.

 

[JamesW]

Also, you have to have an anode on every piece of equipment and a device that can measure the voltage between the anode and the protected equipment and the reading needs to be put online so that Pentair can monitor the voltage and if the voltage ever falls below the standard voltage, the problem has to be fixed in less than 10 minutes or the warranty on all equipment is voided or supervoided.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

The manufacturer will require that you have the anode serviced thrice yearly by an authorized Dealer and you have to submit the yearly inspection reports within 24 hours of the inspection.

The anode must be weighed, cleaned, photographed and then reinstalled and calibrated.

The service costs $250.00 per visit.

Also, you have to have an anode on every piece of equipment and a device that can measure the voltage between the anode and the protected equipment and the reading needs to be put online so that Pentair can monitor the voltage and if the voltage ever falls below the standard voltage, the problem has to be fixed in less than 10 minutes or the warranty on all equipment is voided or supervoided.

And this is where the beauty of capitalism takes over - there will be a competitor that will have less onerous restrictions on their heater that will make its lifecycle costs cheaper and service companies will be happier to service those heaters as it’s less involved. Eventually Pentair will be forced to reduce their costs or “the market” will reduce their revenue ….

… or Pentair can just stop being stupid and drop the whole “you didn’t have a zinc anode so that’s why it corroded …” nonsense.