Winter closing advice when pad below water level

e_sully

0
Gold Supporter
Dec 23, 2013
33
White Plains, NY
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
Just got off the excellent Zoom on winterizing. Thanks to all the contributors. Wanted to get some help in planning for my particular situation please.

I've lived in the house with this pool for 1 year. I had a company close the pool last season but didn't really pay enough attention to do it myself. My pad is below the water level, about 30 feet from the pool (and maybe 3 ft below the water level as the yard slopes down). I have a solid cover that connects to deck anchors. Also, my main drain is plumbed to one of the skimmers through the second port in the skimmer. The other skimmer also has a second port that is connected to a hole about 2 feet below the skimmer (think it serves to prevent suction issues if the skimmer basket is full). Here is what I was thinking of doing. Please comment and correct:

1. Drain pool water 1-2 inches below waterline tile
2. Use "snorkels" for each of the returns (basically a 90 deg threaded elbow with a PVC extension up above the water level). Let gravity drain the lines then plug them up. Prior to plugging the last line, blow out any water left in the return lines using the Cyclone.
3. Blow out the skimmer lines from the skimmers to the pad using the Cyclone. Use Gizmos for the two skimmer lines.
4. Fill the main drain line from the skimmer with foam rope. Or I could try to blow air through the main drain line with the Cyclone at the skimmer and then quickly plug it at the skimmer. That may require some special adapter for the Cyclone since the hole is 1.5" threaded.
5. Fill the second line (the one that just goes a couple of feet down into the pool) from the other skimmer with foam rope.
6. Pull the drain plugs on the heater and filter to drain them.

I also have an attached spa that is a bit more complicated. There are two returns in the spa, one just below the water line tile and the other at the bottom of the spa. There is also the spa drain and two additional drains that each serve 4 hydrotherapy jets (so 8 jets total) that have their own dedicated pumps. Here is what I was thinking:

1. Temporarily drain the spa into the pool. Since the pool water level will have been lowered, there will be room for the spa water. There is a spillway that connects to the pool, but the pool level shouldn't reach that level.
2. For the two returns, connect the same kind of snorkel I use for the pool to allow them to drain by gravity. One will be longer, of course, for the return near the bottom of the spa.
3. Blow out the spa drain and plug it.
4. I'm having trouble figuring out what to do with the 8 therapy jets. I can remove the two pumps that serve each circuit of 4 and allow the pipes to drain themselves while the spa is empty. The jets are Waterway Polystorm gunite. So they have a 1 inch PVC pipe that extends into the gunite shell to the Venturi manifold. Waterway instructions say to leave this in place and only remove the jet internal from the wall fitting and plug the wall fitting. The wall fitting however is not really sealed to the niche the entire thing sits in (there is some silicone, but I wouldn't count on that being sealed). So, when I refill the spa, it is likely some water will enter around the wall fittings. I'm hoping the jets will be below the freeze line if the water surface freezes. If you're not familiar with the Waterway Polystorm system, see the link below. For some crazy reason, this 22 year old pool was built with Venturi manifolds behind the gunite, but the Waterway niches, wall fittings, connecting pipes and jet internals were never installed. I had the pool re-plastered last fall and added the niches at the time and installed the other components this season myself. So, the pool has never been winterized with the jets.


5. Blow out any water in the air lines for the Venturi using the Cyclone. The air intakes are about 25 ft away behind some shrubs and are 2" PVC. I will plug these just to avoid snow getting in them.
6. Let the spa water back into the spa from the pool by opening the equalizing plug between the two (basically a 1.5" PVC connection through the wall).

One thing I could consider for the jets is sealing all the wall fittings to the niches with fresh silicone and let in cure overnight before finalizing the closing. Unsure if this will really prevent any water from getting in. Then I would just plug the wall fittings.

Appreciate any help with this plan.

Thank you.
 
@Catanzaro

e_sully --- keep really good notes if you will. Then you can work with some of our Experts on winterizing to create an addendum to the Wiki for pools that have equipment that is below water level.
 
Spring is here and I thought I would follow up on the process for closing and opening an inground gunite pool with the equipment pad bellow the water line.

A few changes to what I proposed back in August (using the same numbering above):

Pool -

1. I drained about 2 inches below tile. When I opened the pool, the water was at mid tile, but the tile seemed undamaged. May go a little lower next year.

2. For all the returns, I ended up using Bungee blow out plugs instead of making "snorkels". These worked out great and I would highly recommend them. You simply replace all the eyeball returns with these (I have 11) and blow out through the skimmers (for my situation as you can't blow out through the pumps since they are below water line).

3. Cyclone worked out nicely to blow through skimmers. It was bit messy at times and occasionally got soaked. Gizmos were straightforward.

4. Foam rope worked great for the main drain.

5. Foam rope also good for the relief drain in the other skimmer.

6. For may Rapack, I pulled brass drain plug on the side opposite the header and removed the pressure gauge. Left everything open to drain.

Spa -

1. I did drain the spa to the pool, but next time, I'm just going to use a separate submersible pump.

2. Used the bungee for these returns as well.

3. I blew out the spa drain which resulted in the water coming back into the spa through the spa returns. This is why having a separate submersible pump is easier as it would continue to remove any water that accumulates so I'm not standing in it or trying to plug the spa drain with a few inches of water present.

4. For the therapy jets, I ended up sealing around the niches with silicone (dry for 24 hours) and blowing them out from the intake drains (which are under the same drain cover as the spa drain). Again, having a separate sump pump would have made this easier to keep the water from the pipes from filling up the spa a few inches. I plugged all the therapy niches per the Waterway instructions (i.e. removed the jet internal fittings) using standard rubber plugs.

5. I did blow out the air intakes as well.

6. I let the spa equalize the water level with the pool.

Opening -

Opening the pool was great. Took off the cover and the water was crystal clear. I had dumped in a couple of gallons of 10% chlorine before closing. When I tested, FC was 0.5 (so essentially 0). CYA was down to 60 (could be dilution with snow/rain), TA was 80, pH was high (8.8 on digital meter), calcium 350, Salt 1800. There were a lot of pine needles, some dirt (soil) in the bottom and about a million earthworms. My WaterTech cordless robot took about 5 days to clear up the debris (have to charge every night) but now is maintaining a clean pool on it's weekly schedule. Got all chemicals up to correct levels and SWCG kicked in now that it is warm enough and salt level is at 3000 (used LC for a couple of weeks at first).

One thing I noted with the pad so low was that it was hard to get all the air out of the pipes. Since the baskets were full of water, I thought just turning on the pumps would be enough and the air would just blow back out into the pool. However, I had to remove the pump basket lids and let the water flow out the pump baskets to get the air out and, of course, bleed out air through the cartridge filter (which I cleaned thoroughly).

Only two repairs needed. I had one PVC joint into the heater that leaked, and I had to get new Raypak unions to allow me to fix this. Also, the heater needed a new temp sensor. The sensor wires had been chewed through by mice and I thought splicing them back together would be enough, but it wouldn't clear the sensor failure error. The new sensor fixed the problem. Interestingly, the old sensor looked fine when I removed it (other then the wires). I checked resistance and it seemed okay, but the Raypak control panel must have a tight tolerance on this. Anway, since I could bypass the heater while the repair parts were shipping, I was able to continue to start up the pool without issue.

So there it is, successful closing and opening of an inground, gunite pool with an attached spa and a pool pad below the water line.

Hope this helps someone.
 
Thanks. Was gratifying to be in the hot tub the same day the parts arrived. Will be in the pool this weekend as we will hit 87 (finally). Thanks to TFP for the guidance to have such as smooth opening and a clean, safe pool.
 
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