White cloudy water

[Baby43204]

Need help with my above ground pool 16ft wide 4ft deep 6042 gallons of water. I am new to having a pool put it up in may and had craystal clear water until one day I decided to deep clean it and I scrubbed down all my walls and floor and put in a half a bag of hth ultra shock then the next day I put in the other half of the shock after I vacuumed from the night before and on the 3rd day I went out and noticed it was a little cloudy so I vacuumed up the floor again and put in another half a bag of hth ultra shock. So all together I put in 1 1/2 bags of ultra shock. And my water is very cloudy now. Someone at my work told me to put in algaecide so I read the lable and since it was my first time putting it in the pool I put a little under half a gallon in my 6042 gallon pool. But it's still cloudy and i am lost on what to do. I took my water in to be test and they told me to use hth flocculant and let my filter run for 24 to 48 hours then vacuum it out then to shock (I only used half a bag) the pool and I should be good but I did and still cloudy. Can someone please help I don't know what to do now. I want my crystal clear water back it's been over a week. Sorry so long. I also read that adding bleach should help since it was kinda low so I added less then half a gallon of bleach then the rest of the shock that i had when I woke up today it was still white cloudy. Can someone please help

Please note that I combined this thread with "Poor Factory Pump" as they are both about the same problem... Jim R.

 

[JohnT]

Welcome to TFP!

The likely reason for the cloudiness is the shock powder. Run your pump around the clock, brush the pool daily and be very consistent with your chlorine level by adding bleach only and it should clear.

 

[Baby43204]

So even though I added all that stuff it is still ok cause in the past week and a half it now is like 3 bags of shock in a 6042 gallon pool? So I dont need to drain it? I have a small pump is there anyway to make the pump stronger besides putting a new pump on it?

 

[JohnT]

So even though I added all that stuff it is still ok cause in the past week and a half it now is like 3 bags of shock in a 6042 gallon pool? So I dont need to drain it? I have a small pump is there anyway to make the pump stronger besides putting a new pump on it?

No way to say without test results.

 

[Baby43204]

Poor factory pump.

Just wondering if there was a way to improve my factory pump that came with my pool my water is cloudy and I want to fliter it quicker to see if it will help with my problem that I have so is there anything that I can do to make it fliter the water faster without getting a new pump?

 

[domct203]

Re: Poor factory pump.

Just wondering if there was a way to improve my factory pump that came with my pool my water is cloudy and I want to fliter it quicker to see if it will help with my problem that I have so is there anything that I can do to make it fliter the water faster without getting a new pump?

There is nothing you can do to increase the capacity of the pump.

A cloudy pool is almost always a chemistry issue. How do you test, and how do you add chlorine?

 

[domct203]

How are you testing the pool?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Re: Poor factory pump.

B,

Cloudy water is almost always a chemical problem, not a filter problem... The filter is there to capture stuff that falls into your pool, like leaves and bugs, etc... Having the proper balance of chemicals is what keeps your pool clear and sanitized.

I suggest that you read through our pool school and see what we are all about... Pool School - Pool School

The main key is to be able to accurately measure your CYA (stabilizer) and FC (Free Chlorine) and maintain them per this chart.. [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]

What are your levels?

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Poolzzz]

Re: Poor factory pump.

As others have said cloudy water is a chemistry problem not a filter problem.

You need to know your CYA level and then maintain chlorine based on the fc/cya chart. Read up on the abc's of pool chemistry in pool school.

Since you have cloudy water you have algae and will need to SLAM to get rid of it. Also explained in Pool School.

Your pump is fine. It's better than my stock pump on similar sized pool. I've attached a picture of my water fyi. The cord is both floating on the water and in the water in places. The pool noodle is floating on water and my cleaner robot is at the bottom of the pool. Just the stock pump and proper chlorine/cya levels.

 

[Baby43204]

Re: Poor factory pump.

These are my liquid test results from yesterday not sure on the cya though.
And water still cloudy even with cleaning the fliter daily.

 

[ajw22]

Re: Poor factory pump.

Your FC of 3 is too low for your CYA level of 40. See [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. FC needs to be 5-7.

You do those tests or they come from a pool store? Please put your test kit in your signature.

You probably have algae in the water from your FC dropping too low. You need to do the SLAM Process process to clear the water.

 

[Baby43204]

Liquid test kit. And yesterday it was this not to sure about the cya cause that was from my test strip of the clorox strip cause I ran out if the drops for the liquid test.

 

[Baby43204]

So what to do

 

[mknauss]

You must have a FAS-DPD test for FC and CC to follow the SLAM Process process. Order one now.

Your 6 way is OK but you will no doubt need to add a full CYA test as it does not do many tests. Also be aware that the pH test in that kit may only be good with FC below 5ppm. And thus a proper K1000 test kit is needed.

With all that it would be best to order a complete test kit, either the TF100 or K2006C.

 

[ajw22]

So what to do

Treat it like CYA 40 until proven different. If you are going to error, error on too high FC not too low. A bit too high is not a big deal. Too low can let algae take hold.

 

[wogster]

You must have a FAS-DPD test for FC and CC to follow the SLAM Process process. Order one now.

Your 6 way is OK but you will no doubt need to add a full CYA test as it does not do many tests. Also be aware that the pH test in that kit may only be good with FC below 5ppm. And thus a proper K1000 test kit is needed.

With all that it would be best to order a complete test kit, either the TF100 or K2006C.

I see the comment about the K2006C often and wonder if, for those of us in Canada and the Northern States, where the pool opens at the earliest late May, and is closed by mid September, the K2006 might be a better deal, then you just order a set of fresh reagents every year, for delivery just before the May two-four weekend.... Especially here in Canada where the K2006 costs as much as the K2006C in the US.

 

[ajw22]

I see the comment about the K2006C often and wonder if, for those of us in Canada and the Northern States, where the pool opens at the earliest late May, and is closed by mid September, the K2006 might be a better deal, then you just order a set of fresh reagents every year, for delivery just before the May two-four weekend.... Especially here in Canada where the K2006 costs as much as the K2006C in the US.

I find reagents can last for two seasons if stored properly.

 

[mknauss]

The K2006 is fine, except for the FAS-DPD. You do not get enough of the reagents for it no matter what.

That is why we recommend the TF100. It is designed for the residential pool owner. More of the tests you use a lot, less of the ones you use rarely.

 

[Baby43204]

My test results

 

[mknauss]

OK -- so what is the issue? If your water is clear, you can pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (have you done one?) and you can measure a CC (which you can't) of 0.5 ppm or less, then you do not need to SLAM.

In other words, you need a proper test kit..