I have a valve that is 4" above ground with a 2" outlet to go to the suction side of a pump. However, the pump's inlet is 8" higher in elevation. I can use rigid PVC pipes but it will involve two 90 elbows. Is using a flexible PVC pipe there better to allow a more gentle sweeping curve?
Using flexible PVC pipe between valve and pump on the suction side
- Thread starter miamicuse
- Start date
There is little head loss in those 90's. Flex PVC has it's own set of challenges that are troublesome. I would use rigid PVC and have a good looking permanent installation.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 15,974
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Also - flex pvc isn’t as flexible as u think - especially in short runs. Stick w/ rigid pvc.
Thank you for the feedback. I guess I will go with the rigid PVC pipe then.
One related question. The valve side is already solvent welded. So I will need two 90 PVC elbows and some short pipes to make the transition. I would like to be able to separate the pump from the suction line for service when necessary so normally the way to do that is by installing an extra union.
However I noticed that there is a product which can be threaded into the pump and acts like a union as well, This seems to be a good solution and no need for a separate bulky union.
However I noticed the male threaded side has a gasket, which seems to suggest this is not a typical male taper threads requiring tape/dope but a compression seal. Is this a superior or inferior seal? Will these gasket need replacements ever so often or subjected to damage by vibration of the pump or chemicals in the water?
One related question. The valve side is already solvent welded. So I will need two 90 PVC elbows and some short pipes to make the transition. I would like to be able to separate the pump from the suction line for service when necessary so normally the way to do that is by installing an extra union.
However I noticed that there is a product which can be threaded into the pump and acts like a union as well, This seems to be a good solution and no need for a separate bulky union.
However I noticed the male threaded side has a gasket, which seems to suggest this is not a typical male taper threads requiring tape/dope but a compression seal. Is this a superior or inferior seal? Will these gasket need replacements ever so often or subjected to damage by vibration of the pump or chemicals in the water?
They are not a standard MIP to allow the fitting to be tightened completely against the input and output ports of the pump without damage to the port or union.Thank you for the feedback. I guess I will go with the rigid PVC pipe then.
One related question. The valve side is already solvent welded. So I will need two 90 PVC elbows and some short pipes to make the transition. I would like to be able to separate the pump from the suction line for service when necessary so normally the way to do that is by installing an extra union.
However I noticed that there is a product which can be threaded into the pump and acts like a union as well, This seems to be a good solution and no need for a separate bulky union.
However I noticed the male threaded side has a gasket, which seems to suggest this is not a typical male taper threads requiring tape/dope but a compression seal. Is this a superior or inferior seal? Will these gasket need replacements ever so often or subjected to damage by vibration of the pump or chemicals in the water?
Put a little pool lube (no petroleum products) on the O rings before installation to protect them and allow them to seat better and they will last many years.
Everything wears out eventually. Much depends on our maintenance and the environment in which it operates.
OK I was able to repipe with rigid PVC using the high temp union from the pump outlet to the filter. So far no leak so that's good because the old piping using a 2" male adapter out of the pump was leaking no matter how many times I tighten it and how I prepared the make threads with pipe sealant or tape.
Next I will redo the inlet side where I have two 90 elbows and a union. I want to get rid of the union and use a high temp union right at the inlet.
Next I will redo the inlet side where I have two 90 elbows and a union. I want to get rid of the union and use a high temp union right at the inlet.
A non-related quick question.
I am missing the small knob that tightens the handle/lever to the valve body. What is this part called and is it an item that I can order for replacement?
I am missing the small knob that tightens the handle/lever to the valve body. What is this part called and is it an item that I can order for replacement?
- Jun 1, 2018
- 15,974
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
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Not missing, broken. Not an issue. You can heat a small flat-blade screwdriver, force it into the broken part and un-thread, or leave as is.
Broken? So you mean there is a short stub of male threads inside there? I will try and remove it. I have a sprinkler riser remover that is like a cone shaped wedge I may try to see if that works. Thanks.
Too big. The part is about 1/4". Again, you can heat a small flat-blade screwdriver, force it into the broken part and un-thread, or leave as is. I do it regularly.