Triton II PSI rises higher and higher

Hey all,
First off, I want to thank you guys for a lot of unacknowledged help. I purchased a house with a pool and a nice system, about 6 months ago, and have been "lurking" on here with out an account and gaining a huge amount of tips. Thanks for that!

I was unable to find a more specific solution so here's my issue:

I have a Triton II TR60 filter. I don't know any of the past maintenance history (didn't know enough to ask when I bought the house, still trying to find out from the previous owner). Normally, when running it maintains 14 PSI. I got in the habit of backwashing every couple weeks when it was at about 25 PSI. I now know that was waaay too late to backwash the filter (forgive my ignorance!). I now religiously abide the 25% rule, and backwash in the 17-20 range. This has worked for months. Here's where the issue begins:

I backwashed in the morning, no issues. When I got home from work about 12 hours later the PSI was at 30-32 PSI. I had never observed it skyrocket that quickly, or ever seen the pressure that high. The booster pump also developed a small leak within a day or two of the same event (can't remember more specifically). Ever since this day this is what I observe:

Pressure directly after backwashing hits 14 psi. Within a couple hours it will be at 16-17 PSI. It will stay there for about a day until it hits 18-20 and gets a backwash. I also notice that I must backwash muuuuch more water (over a minute) to get clear returns through the jets. During the summer this is a nuisance as I have a well pump with an automatic flip flop valve to keep the pool adequately filled (although it does raise my alkalinity). During the winter its a real pain as I must find a couple of non-freezing hours to hook a hose up to my pool to refill the water level. From reading other posts I can surmise two possible actions: 1. Replace the sand in the filter? 2. Chemical cleaning? When I look in the filter user manual for the cleaning it says "approved cleaner". What is that? Any tips? Any other possible courses of action? Thanks!

-Dave

P.S. I believe my signature is updated with my pool info, but this is untested. I'll reattach if not
 
Dave,

Welcome to TFP... A Great pool Resource... :lovetfp:

As a general rule, filters that increase in back pressure that quickly are just doing there job. The more "junk" they clean out of your pool, the harder it is to push water through them.

How about posting your pool test data...

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

What does you water look like, and how are you testing it?

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.
 
Typically a chemistry issue. Usually low chlorine causing algae or high csi causing scale.

Also, the pump is oversized for that filter. Excessive flow during backwash can cause loss of sand over time.

I would check the level of sand.

If you can post a full set of test results, that will help.

Is the water crystal clear or cloudy?

Any algae?

Century is the motor, what pump do you have?
 
Jim and James,
Thanks for your prompt replies. Unfortunately I am on the road with a buddy house sitting, and can't get you the type of pump currently. I get the water tested at Leslie's, and also have test strips to allow me to monitor the bad actors more regularly without driving downtown. My most recent test was about two weeks old, however I will get one Friday.

The pool water is typically clear for about two weeks at a time. After this period of time it normally gets cloudy at a rapid rate. After two or three days I won't even be able to see the bottom of the deep end (8"). What I find I have to do is add about a cup or two of muriatic acid each weekend, and an oz of the clear bright chemical sold at Leslie's. After the clear bright there is noticeable sediment in the pool, which I assume is what clogs the filter.

The test results I get normally show the following results, and test strips agree:

FC: 0 (normal for a SWG pool right?)
pH: this is where I normally struggle to control it. Typically 7.8-8.0
TA: High, 180.
Salt: testing and my cell control unit agree that I'm able to keep it between 2800-3100

I don't have the others off the top of my head. I know the posting guides said to have this data but I thought I was dealing with a hardware issue. Lesson learned!

Happy Holidays! And thanks again

Dave
 
Dave,

The good news is that there is a light at the end of the tunnel.. the bad news is that, unfortunately for you, it is a train!!! :D

The reason your pool will not stay clear, and most likely why your filter keeps clogging up, is because have no chlorine (FC) in your pool. Your FC level should never drop below about 5 ppm, even in a saltwater pool. The SWCG converts the salt into chlorine which keeps your pool sanitized. This time of year, when the pool water is below about 55 degrees, SWCGs will normally shut off, so you will have to add chlorine/bleach manually.

While you are house sitting, you might want to read our "Pool School".. See the link at the top of this page.

The whole premise behind TFP is that we encourage pool owners to test their own water so that they can then determine exactly what their pool needs. This keeps you out of the pool store, so they can't sell you stuff your don't need. It also keeps you from having to "shock" your pool on a weekly basis, or for that matter ever...

After you read our pool school, let us know if this is something you want to do.. and we'll be glad to get you pointed in the right direction...

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.
 
Haven't yet opened the filter, got back home this morning. Here are the test results I should have had for you guys earlier:
FC: 2 ppm
TAC: 2 ppm
Salt: 2500
CH: 240
CYA: 0
TA: 160
pH: 8.0
Acid 3
Copper/iron/phosphates: 0

I've not had the cyanuric acid low before. The gentleman at the pool store said since it'll be cold for a few weeks I'm not gonna lose any chlorine. Thoughts?
My gut reaction based on this would be to add muriatic acid. But I'd love to know what you guys see based on the filter shenanigans.

Thanks so much for everyone's help thus far!

-Dave
 

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At some point in your education (if you stay with TFP), you will begin to understand the necessity of doing your own testing. Pool Store testing is ambivalent at best and strips are absolutely worthless.

You need far more reliability and precision than the pool store or test strips will give you. Many, many people just can't get their heads wrapped around a $70.00 test kit........they pay for themselves usually in the first week when you discover how bad pool store testing is. Your good kit keeps you from dumping in chemistry you don't need.

The CYA reading is probably bogus.....don't put any CYA in until you can test for yourself.

While I would rather see you do your own pH test, pool store testing is usually pretty close on that parameter so you can lower your pH into the Mid 7's. Please confirm the results with your own test.

Good luck on the forum. Stick with it....particularly read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School......it's the basics.
 
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