Tiles fell off - How to repair?

[Steelfanman]

Three waterline tiles came loose and I am looking for the best way to re-attach them without draining the pool (I have no way too unless I rent a pump or wait for evap). One of them is broken. So far based on research on here I have found two products which ought to work but I have questions about both.

I bought this product because it is cheap and available and I can have more leeway if I have to waste any trying to mix it. But now I'm finding out that I can't use it as grout? That I would need to buy grout separately? Also, I am unsure with using thinset that I would need to remove the existing thinset from the pool wall? I was hoping not to have to do that since the pool is full and it also seems like a giant pain in the butt to try and chip it out especially with water in the pool. Also, there is grout still on the tile edges. Do I need to grind that off as well?

Custom Building Products 1.5 lb. White Tile Repair Mortar-TRMW1 - The Home Depot

Find the Tile Repair Mortar 1.5 lb. Powder Mortar TRMW1, resists mold and mildew fast-setting formula helps you perform same-day grouting at The Home Depot

www.homedepot.com

This product is expensive and I'm afraid if I don't mix it perfectly I will waste alot of money and I have to order it. But it seems like you can also use it as grout? And the instructions say nothing about having to chip off the old thinset or grout. Is that true for this?

Amazon.com : E-Z Patch 4 White Pool Tile Grout for DIY & Pro Repairs - Color Adjustable Grout Refresh (3 lb) : Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com : E-Z Patch 4 White Pool Tile Grout for DIY & Pro Repairs - Color Adjustable Grout Refresh (3 lb) : Garden & Outdoor

www.amazon.com

I also saw a video where someone used this, but the demonstration was above the water line. Does anyone know if this can set and adhere below the waterline?

Boss Silicone RTV 100% 315 Clear Sealant, 3 oz. Tube: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Boss Silicone RTV 100% 315 Clear Sealant, 3 oz. Tube: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

Any advice on which product to use or whether my assumptions are right or wrong? How critical is this repair? It's ugly as heck, but do I need to repair this as quickly as I think I do? I've been researching this all night thinking I have a huge problem on my hands, but my pool issues always affect me that way. And I'm not the most handy or DIY person. so Is this above my pay grade for someone who has never done a tile repair before?

Thanks.

 

[mattw221]

This is what I do.. I use Custom Megalite thinset from Home Depot. I also use it as grout but mix it a little creamier. You have to apply it as grout and wipe it off fairly quickly as it sets pretty fast. Working time is around 20 minutes but can get a little more time with very cold water during mixing.

For the existing wall your going to have to pump the water at least below the tile line for it to set. And you have to clean off the existing thinset on the wall if you want the tiles to set level with the rest of the tiles.

To remove the thinset on the wall and the grout between the tiles I use a oscillating tool with a Carbide Finger Rasp. You can find them at Harbor Freight. Make sure you have it plugged into a GFI circuit or use a battery oscillating tool.

It's not too hard once you do it a few times. The key is in the prep.. All the old thinset has to be removed from the back of the tiles and the wall.

 

[Steelfanman]

Thanks for the reply!.

That's what I was afraid of. That involves alot of tools and equipment I don't have and sounds like a period of time where the water has to be at a level where I wont be able to run the pump. In this heat both of those scenarios make me really nervous.

Is there no solution that involves keeping the water at normal level? I have seen videos online and in posts on this forum where that seems possible. I am just unsure of which adhesive and have seen different levels of prep work involved. If I have to invest in a bunch of tools and equipment it seems like I should just find a professional to do it.

 

[jtpipkin]

same happened to me - i use this stuff on everything. mine was kind of hidden in the skimmer bay, but have had zero issues with it for over 2 years
https://www.lowes.com/pd/LOCTITE-Po...esive-Actual-Net-Contents-10-Fl-Oz/1000059641

 

[mattw221]

If you have a main drain valve and a skimmer valve you can run your pump just on the main drain suction. As a matter of
fact I'm repair tile right now and I have my pump just using the main drain with the water drained below my skimmers. Your system doesn't need to be down and you can still swim.

For parts and tools your talking $100. It's a matter of draining below the tile line. Removing the old thinset, mixing and apply new thinset and applying the tiles.

 

[Steelfanman]

That's a great point about draining below the skimmer and using the main drain suction. Proves how much I still have to learn about pool mechanics.

If I do the repair dry, I am leaning towards using the Boss 315 silicone. I have seen a few videos that use it just for this purpose, and reviewers on Amazon seem to swear by it for reattaching tile without having to worry about the grout or thinset.

Is it safe for the pool in 100-plus degree heat to let the water evap just down below the tile (should take 4 or 5 days to get there) then do the repair? Or should I/Can I wait until fall when it cools off?

 

[mattw221]

It's safe to let the water evap down below the tiles. Just make sure you close off your skimmers at the point where they will run out of water. You don't want your pump running dry. Some skimmers are set low enough so they still have enough water to run right below the water line. You'll have to gauge it.

If you use the silicone just make sure you at least remove any loose old thinset from the wall. The bond is only going to be as good as what it's sticking too. I would probably put some of the silicone on the wall and on the tiles. That will give you the best bond strength vs just putting it on the back of the tiles.

 

[ladylonghorn]

If you have a main drain valve and a skimmer valve you can run your pump just on the main drain suction. As a matter of
fact I'm repair tile right now and I have my pump just using the main drain with the water drained below my skimmers. Your system doesn't need to be down and you can still swim.

For parts and tools your talking $100. It's a matter of draining below the tile line. Removing the old thinset, mixing and apply new thinset and applying the tiles.

Apologies for the ignorance of my question, but how would one know if they have a main drain valve and skimmer valve? I know I have 2 skimmers on either end of my pool. I also know there are 2 "drains" in the center of the deepest end of the pool. I also know that when my water is too low, the pool keeps trying to go on but won't. I have 4 tiles at the waterline that popped off. When the pool is filled normally, the water comes up about 2" on the tile the rest of the tile is above the water.

 

[ladylonghorn]

It's safe to let the water evap down below the tiles. Just make sure you close off your skimmers at the point where they will run out of water. You don't want your pump running dry. Some skimmers are set low enough so they still have enough water to run right below the water line. You'll have to gauge it.

If you use the silicone just make sure you at least remove any loose old thinset from the wall. The bond is only going to be as good as what it's sticking too. I would probably put some of the silicone on the wall and on the tiles. That will give you the best bond strength vs just putting it on the back of the tiles.

How do you close off the skimmers so they won't run dry?

 

[1poolman1]

Drain pool down to where you need. Add extra chlorine, maybe 2 gallons, and stir with a net and pole. Shouldn't be a problem having the pool not circulate during the repair, maybe 2 days.