Test tubes

[bikerdan]

As I was browsing though looking at some of your test kit setups, I noticed that many of you have multiple test tubes. That got me wondering if there is a reason to keep any of them separate for different tests. Is that a problem at all?

Also, feel free to post a pic of your test kit for inspiration. I’m thinking of picking up a tiered tackle box to put all my stuff in. I wish the k-2006 box had a little more room.

 

[PoolStored]

If you regularly clean your tubes with rubbing alcohol or a water:bleach solution, no need for multiple tubes.

I clean them after each test with tap and dry. I clean them once a week as above. Multiple tubes, for many, come from buying multiple kits over the years.

You should clean your tube everytime after you test salt. That test in particular leaves residue.

I use coffee filters to clean and dry tubes. Cheap and they don't leave lint.

Show off your test kit!

There was a thread quite a while back that I thought was pretty fun and gave me some ideas (that I haven't followed through on... yet!). I thought I would get one going again. So here's my test kit set up. It's a stock TF-100 case and reagents but I've rearranged so I can fit my SpeedStir in...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[DrewLG]

As I was browsing though looking at some of your test kit setups, I noticed that many of you have multiple test tubes. That got me wondering if there is a reason to keep any of them separate for different tests. Is that a problem at all?

The DPD powder for testing free chlorine will leave black stains on the test vial and the stir bar (if you use a magnetic stirrer), so the tftestkits.net kits come with one vial marked "Chlorine Only" for that test, and another vial for the other tests. I rinse my vials (with pool water before testing, and with tap water after) but I don't regularly clean them with alcohol, so I like having two.

Also, feel free to post a pic of your test kit for inspiration. I’m thinking of picking up a tiered tackle box to put all my stuff in. I wish the k-2006 box had a little more room.

Here's my TF-Pro kit. Modifications:

• Caps labeled with drop counts and multipliers (thanks to @Dirk for that genius tip)
• Test vials replaced by Taylor 9198 vials so I can use a SampleSizer
• One vial marked "Chlorine Only", and "FC" at the 10ml line; the other marked "CH" and "SALT" at the 10ml line, "TA" at the 25ml line
• One X-shaped stir bar per vial
• One CYA reagent bottle removed (and stored separately) to make room for the K-2042 KMPS Interference Removal kit
• FC/pH color comparator cut in half, and the FC half discarded; a second CYA reagent bottle removed to make room for it
• R-0600 reagent (for use with the FC color comparator) discarded and replaced by a 10ml/25ml SampleSizer
• Salt reagents stored where the FC/pH color comparator used to be
• CYA viewing tube stored upside-down to prevent pinching and cracking the open end
• CYA reagent-bottle cap replaced by the cap from a CYA mixing vial
• K-1106 Phosphate Test kit, thermometer, and extra DPD scoop under the net on the lid
• 16oz plastic bottle with press cap, for collecting pool water

 

[Dirk]

The DPD powder for testing free chlorine will leave black stains on the test vial and the stir bar (if you use a magnetic stirrer), so the tftestkits.net kits come with one vial marked "Chlorine Only" for that test, and another vial for the other tests. I rinse my vials (with pool water before testing, and with tap water after) but I don't regularly clean them with alcohol, so I like having two.



Here's my TF-Pro kit. Modifications:

• Caps labeled with drop counts and multipliers (thanks to @Dirk for that genius tip)
• Test vials replaced by Taylor 9198 vials so I can use a SampleSizer
• One X-shaped stir bar per vial
• Vials marked "FC", "CH", and "SALT" at the 10ml line, "TA" at the 25ml line
• One CYA reagent bottle removed (and stored separately) to make room for the K-2042 KMPS Interference Removal kit
• FC/pH color comparator cut in half, and the FC half discarded; a second CYA bottle removed to make room for it
• R-0600 reagent (for use with the FC color comparator) discarded and replaced by a SampleSizer
• Salt reagents stored where the FC/pH color comparator used to be
• CYA viewing tube stored upside-down to prevent pinching and cracking the open end
• CYA reagent cap replaced by the cap from a CYA mixing vial
• K-1106 Phosphate Test kit, thermometer, and extra DPD scoop under the net on the lid
• 16oz plastic bottle with press cap, for collecting pool water

View attachment 599767

Very nice mods.

 

[bikerdan]

The DPD powder for testing free chlorine will leave black stains on the test vial and the stir bar (if you use a magnetic stirrer), so the tftestkits.net kits come with one vial marked "Chlorine Only" for that test, and another vial for the other tests. I rinse my vials (with pool water before testing, and with tap water after) but I don't regularly clean them with alcohol, so I like having two.



Here's my TF-Pro kit. Modifications:

• Caps labeled with drop counts and multipliers (thanks to @Dirk for that genius tip)
• Test vials replaced by Taylor 9198 vials so I can use a SampleSizer
• One X-shaped stir bar per vial
• Vials marked "FC", "CH", and "SALT" at the 10ml line, "TA" at the 25ml line
• One CYA reagent bottle removed (and stored separately) to make room for the K-2042 KMPS Interference Removal kit
• FC/pH color comparator cut in half, and the FC half discarded; a second CYA reagent bottle removed to make room for it
• R-0600 reagent (for use with the FC color comparator) discarded and replaced by a SampleSizer
• Salt reagents stored where the FC/pH color comparator used to be
• CYA viewing tube stored upside-down to prevent pinching and cracking the open end
• CYA reagent-bottle cap replaced by the cap from a CYA mixing vial
• K-1106 Phosphate Test kit, thermometer, and extra DPD scoop under the net on the lid
• 16oz plastic bottle with press cap, for collecting pool water

View attachment 599767

Thank you for that well thought out post. There is a lot of great info there!