Substitute for chlorine tablets???

jessab

Well-known member
Aug 27, 2024
54
Northeast WI
Pool Size
16500
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Have you gone to the PoolSchool link yet and read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry?

The use of trichlor 3" pucks is pretty much industry standard teaching for pool water chlorination. What they fail to mention is that constant use of the pucks over-stabilizes pool water (CYA gets too high) and then the chlorine is no longer effective. Then, instead of fixing the problem, you are led by the pool stores to use ever increasingly expensive chemical solutions (algaecides, shock powders, etc) that only make the water worse.

If you want to follow the TFPC Method , then you will need to read up on the links in PoolSchool and make the switch to liquid chlorine or bleach. You will also need to purchase one of the Recommended Testkits (either the TF-100 or the Taylor K-2006) and get away from pool store water testing. Once you take control of your own testing, you will find that your pool is very easy to maintain using the methods taught here.

And, where are my manners!?!? I failed to say this - Welcome to TFP! :wave:
Hi there! I see this is a very old post, but I just came across this site the other day and have been reading everything I can. I am planning to switch to the TFP method next season (closing soon here in WI), but quick question…are pure chlorine tablets an acceptable alternative?
 
are pure chlorine tablets an acceptable alternative?
Chlorine a gas so it needs to be stabilized. For pools it's water (liquid chlorine / bleach) CYA (trichlor/dichlor) or Calcium (CalHypo).

Your choice which level you prefer to jack. We suggest the water because you'll never know you are up 0.9 gallons per.

With lots of rain, you can get away with tabs and or powdered shock longer so long as you monitor your CYA/CH accordingly and switch as necessary.
 
Hi again! Here’s my problem: I just switched to BioGuard Silk complete tablets (I hadn’t found this site yet), and my CYA went from 40 (which it was stable at for a solid month, since I first got the pool) Now it’s up to 87 since switching. I’d rather not keep using them as I don’t want CYA to continue to climb, but I need to chlorinate, obviously, and I like the idea of just putting the tabs into the chlorinator so I can go a day or two without adding. Or storing loads of gallon jugs.
 
Hi there! I see this is a very old post, but I just came across this site the other day and have been reading everything I can. I am planning to switch to the TFP method next season (closing soon here in WI), but quick question…are pure chlorine tablets an acceptable alternative?
Hi Joyful, yes I did do the reading. I guess I was under the impression that it would be possible to get pure chlorine tablets, but that’s just not it case I’m learning. Well scratch that!
 
Hi again! Here’s my problem: I just switched to BioGuard Silk complete tablets (I hadn’t found this site yet), and my CYA went from 40 (which it was stable at for a solid month, since I first got the pool) Now it’s up to 87 since switching. I’d rather not keep using them as I don’t want CYA to continue to climb, but I need to chlorinate, obviously, and I like the idea of just putting the tabs into the chlorinator so I can go a day or two without adding. Or storing loads of gallon jugs.

Chlorine a gas so it needs to be stabilized. For pools it's water (liquid chlorine / bleach) CYA (trichlor/dichlor) or Calcium (CalHypo).

Your choice which level you prefer to jack. We suggest the water because you'll never know you are up 0.9 gallons per.

With lots of rain, you can get away with tabs and or powdered shock longer so long as you monitor your CYA/CH accordingly and switch as necessary.
I assumed it was possible to get pure chlorine tablets, but I see it’s not. Looks like liquid it is!
 
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Nope, they either have cya or calcium.
For daily chlorination we recommend using liquid chlorine or a saltwater chlorine generator
 
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Please note that if you decide to try calcium-hypochlorite tablets at some point they cannot be put in a feeder that has ever had trichlor tablets in it. The trichlor residue in the feeder will react with the cal-hypo and cause an exothermic reaction. That is: kaboom. We have seen this, ranging from a warped feeder to outright explosion with shrapnel and everything.

Liquid chlorine or a saltwater chlorine generator are the best options.
 
Hi there! I see this is a very old post, but I just came across this site the other day and have been reading everything I can. I am planning to switch to the TFP method next season (closing soon here in WI), but quick question…are pure chlorine tablets an acceptable

Please note that if you decide to try calcium-hypochlorite tablets at some point they cannot be put in a feeder that has ever had trichlor tablets in it. The trichlor residue in the feeder will react with the cal-hypo and cause an exothermic reaction. That is: kaboom. We have seen this, ranging from a warped feeder to outright explosion with shrapnel and everything.

Liquid chlorine or a saltwater chlorine generator are the best options.
😱 thank you for that info! Eeek!
 
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Bingo (y)

I do simple math in the store aisle. 6 full months (180 days @ 30 each) plus 17 days. Give or take it was made July 17th and if you're a couple days off, it's way close enough.

You want less than 3 months old and the fresher the better. That's still plenty good for not being brand new.
 
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Make your own chlorine with a salt chlorine generator. You’ll have to spend some money upfront, but it will save you money in the long term. The best part is, it just makes pure chlorine gas. I would never own a pool without one.
 
Make your own chlorine with a salt chlorine generator. You’ll have to spend some money upfront, but it will save you money in the long term. The best part is, it just makes pure chlorine gas. I would never own a pool without one.
Thank you for your input. Unfortunately, I just got the pool five weeks ago…wish I would have found this site sooner! I’ll need to do a bunch of research, but I think I might be willing to spend the money. Any particular system you recommend? How long have you been using this type of system? Are there any downsides? Ok to use in the north where winters are harsh? (Not sure how this could matter, but figured I’d ask)
 
Thank you for your input. Unfortunately, I just got the pool five weeks ago…wish I would have found this site sooner! I’ll need to do a bunch of research, but I think I might be willing to spend the money. Any particular system you recommend? How long have you been using this type of system? Are there any downsides? Ok to use in the north where winters are harsh? (Not sure how this could matter, but figured I’d ask)
If you have any type of automation, it’s best to use the same brand since you to get control it directly from your cell phone. I’d suggest filling out your signature with all of your equipment, then we can make a better recommendation.

As far as cold weather, it stops working when your water temp goes below 55 degrees or so. You’ll have to switch to liquid chlorine then, but the good news is chlorine demand plummets during the winter, making this not much of a big deal.

There are absolutely no downsides. The “downside” you’ll see often is based on bad information. In order to make chlorine, you need to add salt to your pool. Your pool will be about 1/10th as salty as the ocean, and a little less than your tears. Some pool builders say that salt will degrade your equipment. That’s not accurate for 2 reasons. 1) the salinity level required is quite low and 2) All pools accumulate salt over time because all the stuff you put in your pool adds a little salt. Over time, depending on annual rainfall in your area, the salt can actually be HIGHER in “regular” pools. So, if salt at these levels were indeed bad for the pool, everyone would have this issue.
 
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If you have any type of automation, it’s best to use the same brand since you to get control it directly from your cell phone. I’d suggest filling out your signature with all of your equipment, then we can make a better recommendation.

As far as cold weather, it stops working when your water temp goes below 55 degrees or so. You’ll have to switch to liquid chlorine then, but the good news is chlorine demand plummets during the winter, making this not much of a bid deal.

There are absolutely no downsides. The “downside” you’ll see often is based on bad information. In order to make chlorine, you need to add salt to your pool. Your pool will be about 1/10th as salty as the ocean, and a little less than your tears. Some pool builders say that salt will degrade your equipment. That’s not accurate for 2 reasons. 1) the salinity level required is quite low and 2) All pools accumulate salt over time because all the stuff you put in your pool adds a little salt. Over time, depending on annual rainfall in your area, the salt can actually be HIGHER in “regular” pools. So, if salt at these levels were indeed bad for the pool, everyone would have this issue.
I thought I added all my equipment info, but I’ll go check my profile. Thanks for the info. One thing to consider…I have a semi in-ground (optimum brand—-hilly yard) vinyl-lined pool. SWGs can be used in those?
 
+1. Nobody checks their salt in liquid chlorine pools. Ever.

It may even be higher. But call it a salt pool and everyone loses their minds

I thought I added all my equipment info, but I’ll go check my profile. Thanks for the info. One thing to consider…I have a semi in-ground (optimum brand—-hilly yard) vinyl-lined pool. SWGs can be used in those?
Yes, a SWG will work great
 
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Yup. The liner keeps the water from ever touching the wall. If there's a leak, either pool is gonna have a bad time and they've been rusting out because if it since ever. Loooooooong before SWGs.
 
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