Shock vs Clorox

Re: Shock vs Chlorine

I recommend you get the TF100 from TFTestKits.net or the Taylor K-2006C. The TF100 is the best value for the residential pool owner.When you get your test kit, post up the results and we can provide guidance.

Pool results aren't reliable. In the mean time, clear you pool of debris using pool tools such as a brush, vacuum, pool net , etc. If your pool is really dirty, it is recommended that you vacuum to waste to avoid clogging up your filter. Scoop out as much junk on the surface as well as on the bottom.

While you wait on your test kit, you can add a jug of bleach to your pool. Get the plain stuff - no splashless, scents, or polymers. Plain only. No Clorox no cloromax, no additives.

Add your signature, so we know what type of pool we're dealing with.

Here are some links to help you too.

Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Pool School - How to Chlorinate Your Pool
Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
 
Re: Shock vs Chlorine

It is possible to work out the equivalence, but we'd have to know what, exactly, was this "shock" they wanted to sell you. That word can be used for powdered dichlor, trichlor, varying strengths of Cal-hypo, lithium hypochlorite, and potassium monopersulfate (which is pushed as nonchlorine shock)

You're getting it, though! You understand that liquid bleach is a better choice than powdered forms of chlorine because it adds fewer unwanted byproducts.

We don't especially trust the pool store test results, but why not post 'em anyway and tell us what the water looks like and we'll see what it really needs. It's very common that a pool store preaches daily tablets and weekly shock, whether or not the pool shows any sign of algae. It could be there's nothing wrong, but they feel it's due. Or they needed to sell you something.
 
Re: Shock vs Chlorine

My pool is 35,000 gallons . My free chlorine is "0". I need to raise it to around 2 or 3 PPM. The pool store is usually pushing Cal - Hypo.
can crunch the numbers for you. Just plug in your pool's size, zero for now, 3 for target, and what strength bleach you have.

If you want to go by the pool store's recommendation, 5.4 121 ounce jugs of 6% bleach will replace 3.5 pounds of 73% Cal-hypo. It'll get FC up around 9.
 

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Hello Bruno...

I believe you need to hit a target of 7-9 FC with a CYA of 60. From your signature, it doesn't look like you have a SWCG pool as of yet, but in the process of getting saltwater installed? Correct me if I'm wrong. If that's the case, you'll need to bring your FC up to target level for a CYA of 60 for a non SWCG pool.

I'm curious to see how your water looks like. Could you take a picture of it and post?
 
Here is a simple formula to remember

CYA x .8 = round up to next higher number. Add 2 - 3 for daily loss.

In your case

60 x .8 = 4.8 round up to 5 + 2 or 3 = 7 or 8

Thats the FC you should always have in your pool.

Easy and trouble free.
 
4 is not enough either. See the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]

What does the water look like?

The water isnt cloudy, but has a slight green hue to it. I just opened the pool last weekend. Seems like it keeps that green tint for a couple of weeks every time I open it. Usually within two or three weeks it gets clear. I have in the past hit with some Clear and Perfect.

Without testing it I am sure I am close to the 4. Looking at the FC/CYA chart it sure seems like it should be at least a 7. I am out of clorox , but do have plenty of 99% Dichlor granules on hand.
 
Hi Bruno and welcome to TFP :)

The chlorine CYA chart should be your guide for your target chlorine. If the green is from algae, you'll want to follow the SLAM process. Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

But you really can't follow that and take control of your pool without your own test kit. Pool School - Test Kits Compared

Adding dichlor is going to raise your CYA as well as FC but then with higher CYA, you'll need to target higher FC number. Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
 

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