Sealant between decking and tile

rinaldok

0
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Sep 16, 2016
136
Peoria, AZ
Hi everyone, I know this has been asked a couple times before and I've seen a couple different answers...

I have pretty standard (for this area) slightly cantilevered concrete decking. Under the lip of the decking, between the deck and the top of the waterline tile, the grout is all deteriorated and most of it is missing, leaving a gap. When I bought the house the home inspector pointed it out and said it needs to be resealed. The pool got relatively little use last year and pretty mild use so far this year. It's just the missus and I having a relaxing float, no kids or parties with major splashing, etc.

As I mentioned in another thread I was planning to get the pool resurfaced this spring, with all new tile and deck refinishing. The tile/deck grouting would have been addressed as part of that, naturally.

Due to financial brutalities from other household expenses the resurfacing has been delayed. The missus is wanting to have a gathering on Jul 24th with about 10-15 people.

My hope was that I could DIY some kind of reasonable solution to seal up that gap to prevent any potential worsening of already bad situations with the pool, decking, etc.

I'm surprised that it seems like (I could be wrong) a traditional hard grout was used in there, my assumption is that's why it's all cracked and gone -- movement of the decking over time. I would have thought that something flexible should be in that gap.

My intent is to clean up any remaining major chunkage of grout and fill the gap with a caulking of some sort.

I've had a few folks suggest silicone, and seen it mentioned here, too. I've also seen mention of using polyurethane and not silicone.

This doesn't have to be a 10 year solution. I just need to solve the issue as best I can to protect from water getting in there and causing or worsening any problems for 6-12 months or so until I do get the resurfacing done.

Is 100% silicone caulking acceptable? Is there any reason not to? Why would I use polyurethane vs silicone?

I got some GE white silicone kitchen & bath caulk at Home Depot:

GE Silicone II 10.1 oz. White Kitchen and Bath caulk-HD5070 24C - The Home Depot

I can always return it if it's not the right solution here.

Thanks for the advice.
 
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100% silicone is the way to go. Just get a color you like and squirt it in. Buy a pack of the thin scrubbies and get some dish soap. Get a bowl of warm water and put a teaspoon of soap in it. When you put the caulk in use the dishsoap covered scrubbies to smooth it out. It works like a champ.
 
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Thanks, keithw. The stuff I got is 100% silicone... white (because the grout is white at the moment). I figure I'll go around with a putty knife and my shop vac and try to scrape off/out any larger pieces of junk and suck it up with the shop vac before it gets into the water making it more difficult to clean up later. Once the cavity is relatively clean, I'll go to town with the caulk gun.


Here are some pics, for anyone else interested. Ignore the crud and leaves, I can't skim the pool fast enough to keep up with the garbage blowing in from the microburst/monsoon storms we've had over the past few days. Headed out to skim again...


IMG_0698.jpgIMG_0699.jpgIMG_0700.jpgIMG_0702.jpg

Thanks everyone!
 
That is a much smaller gap than I have. I am pretty sure the Silicone is not what is typically used for this (plus you can never remove silicone and nothing will stick to where you tried to remove it including other silicone). I think polyurethane is that is used .... although I would have to go back and find the threads where this is discussed.

- - - Updated - - -

I do know that deck-o-seal was recommended many times ... although that might not be used for the cantilever decks we have above the tile line ...
 
So I have 1 for Silicone and 1 1/2 for urethane. :)

Is this a coke/pepsi or hayward/pentair kind of thing, or is there something more substantial that makes one correct and the other not? I did see the mention that nothing will stick to where the silicone was in the future... in this case I don't really care because this procedure is only going in as a stop gap (no pun intended) until the pool gets resurfaced, at which time the tile will be replaced and the decking will be ground down and resurfaced as well, so I would imagine it's not really an issue. Unless the silicone came off in a spot and I had to reapply. Wouldn't mineral spirits or similar take any residue off of a surface?

- - - Updated - - -

I do know that deck-o-seal was recommended many times ... although that might not be used for the cantilever decks we have above the tile line ...

I think I saw that the deck-o-seal was only for horizontal surfaces, coping to deck, not coping to waterline tile.
 
I wouldn't stress about it. As a short term fix, either silicone or urethane will do. The Loctite PL is a silane modified polymer - sort of the best of both worlds. I think it adheres better than 100% silicone. I've used it in various projects and it's never let me down.
 

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Hi everyone, I know this has been asked a couple times before and I've seen a couple different answers...

I have pretty standard (for this area) slightly cantilevered concrete decking. Under the lip of the decking, between the deck and the top of the waterline tile, the grout is all deteriorated and most of it is missing, leaving a gap. When I bought the house the home inspector pointed it out and said it needs to be resealed. The pool got relatively little use last year and pretty mild use so far this year. It's just the missus and I having a relaxing float, no kids or parties with major splashing, etc.

As I mentioned in another thread I was planning to get the pool resurfaced this spring, with all new tile and deck refinishing. The tile/deck grouting would have been addressed as part of that, naturally.

Due to financial brutalities from other household expenses the resurfacing has been delayed. The missus is wanting to have a gathering on Jul 24th with about 10-15 people.

My hope was that I could DIY some kind of reasonable solution to seal up that gap to prevent any potential worsening of already bad situations with the pool, decking, etc.

I'm surprised that it seems like (I could be wrong) a traditional hard grout was used in there, my assumption is that's why it's all cracked and gone -- movement of the decking over time. I would have thought that something flexible should be in that gap.

My intent is to clean up any remaining major chunkage of grout and fill the gap with a caulking of some sort.

I've had a few folks suggest silicone, and seen it mentioned here, too. I've also seen mention of using polyurethane and not silicone.

This doesn't have to be a 10 year solution. I just need to solve the issue as best I can to protect from water getting in there and causing or worsening any problems for 6-12 months or so until I do get the resurfacing done.

Is 100% silicone caulking acceptable? Is there any reason not to? Why would I use polyurethane vs silicone?

I got some GE white silicone kitchen & bath caulk at Home Depot:

GE Silicone II 10.1 oz. White Kitchen and Bath caulk-HD5070 24C - The Home Depot

I can always return it if it's not the right solution here.

Thanks for the advice.
I’m building a new pool and have the same question. I’ve heard not to grout glass waterline tile or any tile in between the top of the tile and bottom of the coping where the two meet.
It makes sense not to grout as it doesn’t allow the coping/decking for movement without cracking or pushing the tile.
@bdavis466 @mknauss what’s your recommendation on this? Silicone/urethane, or grout or any specific product?
Thank you
 
Definitely not silicone. Sikaflex and Deck-o-seal both make non-self leveling products for vertical expansion joints.
SikaFlex non-self leveling for top of waterline tile and SikaFlex self leveling for horizontal application? (ie between house and decking)
 

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What about the case where the glass tile meets an aluminum track for an automatic cover? Should that also not be grouted? Because of the glass/metal joint, my understanding is that it should be caulked.

The track is screwed into the bond beam. The track is covered by mortar and coping. It doesn't make sense to grout between the top of the track and the coping, but aesthetically it would look better to grout between the glass tile and bottom of the track.

Thanks..
 
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