Riptide XP Pool Vacuum: !!WOW!!

[PGQ24]

I got a Riptide XP pool vacuum cleaners, and WOW, 65k-68K, no problem. This equipment, along with a skimlite 6317 pool pole, will clean this size pull up in no time. It sucks up dirt and debris like nobody's business; you just steer it and not try to fight it. This thing will blow every automatic pool robot out of the water in the category of cleaning . . . the robotics are Tonka toys compared to this commercial grade equipment. I have a Dolphin s400, and that thing is as dumb as a door knob; the debris basket is tiny. Most of the time, the Dolphin can't even suck up oak leaves. Riptide, on the other hand, will suck up anything, even thin slate layers that fall into the pool bottom. For about ~$1000, it's is really worth it.

Downsides and Tips:
The debris bags is tough to put on and take off. Removing the bag is very difficult especially in cooler or cold weather. They have a tool to help, but a blunt flathead screw driver could help. Get the lifepo4 battery under $100. It is less than 10 lbs. The cable and connector are very heavy duty. You'll need to put some muscles to get it connected. This is commercial quality material and handling. You need a professional pool pole. Steering the riptide is done with twisting the pool pole. Hence, I got the Skimlite 6317 with quick snap to extend and retract. Once you turn on the riptide, you better get ready to steer because the thing will move itself. I find that taking it out of the pool while it is running is difficult because of the suction.

Suggestions:
I think that if Riptide made a "junior "riptide XP", it will sell to DIYer like hotcakes. I have step treads that are 16", 24" and 48" deep, so a 18" wide riptide would be perfect. Also, my steps and shallow areas are only 6" depth. A small riptide could take care of vacuuming shallow areas as well. These Riptide equipment are built to clean junior and Olympic size pools. They need make one for the residential crowds.

Summary: If you have a large pool and tired of incompetent robotic vacuums (pool bottoms), the Riptide will do the job. The robots and pool side pressure cleaners are good for maybe <30K gallon pools. Getting a riptide or similar equipment is really a Eureka moment assuming you have some muscles and some times for cleaning. It is very satisfying when you use the right equipment for the job.

 

[wireform]

Look at my avatar, I have the SL and use it commercially. I will tell you it's well designed.

 

[Hammond]

I have the riptide also and love it. I have a terrible yard for a pool with a big tree that hangs right over the pool. There are also 3 other large trees in the front and side that lose a lot of leaves that fall on the roof of the house and end up in the backyard and pool

I finally came to my senses and cut down the tree that hangs over the pool but still have a fair number of leaves.

With my large number of leaves the Polaris could never keep up, so I got the riptide. As mentioned above it is a bit of a battle to get the bag off and on, but it does a great job vacuuming up everything. It is also a bit awkward to get in and out of the pool, but I still recommend it

 

[Newdude]

You guys are comparing it to robots or automatic cleaners and thats not fair.

How does it compare to my manual vac that I can make suck so hard it sticks to the floor? My manual vac whoops all the cleaners too. Give me a compelling reason to spend $1000 versus the $65 traingle vacuum head.

 

[wireform]

I'm not saying to buy it for the residence, I was just saying it is a good well designed apparatus that cuts my time in half if not less from the way I used to do things. I used to bring the 42' hose, pole, vac head, leaf canister to catch the heavy stuff. I didn't want junk going through the pipe system all the way to the filter and the unforseen pool diver toy that blends in very well or is in the pile of debris at the pool bottom after a good wind storm.
I also try not vacuuming through the pool filter to to load it up more then necessary.

 

[wireform]

The debris bags is tough to put on and take off. Removing the bag is very difficult especially in cooler or cold weather. They have a tool to help, but a blunt flathead screw driver could help.

I use the riptide year round. Yes, in winter the bags are a bit tough and get used only on heated pools so I hang the rubber rim in the heated pool water for a minute which then makes it easy. I bought the bag removal tool, it's made very well with the intention of not harming the vac head which your "blunt flathead screwdriver" definitely gouges it up.
I spent the $20 + shipping knowing in a matter of time I'm way ahead rather then to break my fingers.

 

[PGQ24]

I have countless oaks, pines, and bushes around my pool. It a freaking park like. Summer day are fine. I can use the toy like pool plaster to suck up some minor debris and leaves and looking forward to using the Riptide once a week or as needed. But for Fall / Winter seasons, there are leaves up the wazoo. Keep in mine that these trees lose ALL their leaves (except for the Pines but they still shed like crazy) and are about ~30 feet from the pool edge. Because they are tall, and the winds can be strong, it is difficult prevent the leaves from getting to the pool. Believe me, I fill up trashcans of leaves week after week during Fall/Winter season.

To vacuum this pool with the skimlite 6317 (17ft pool), I have to go to every side of the pool to reach almost every area of the pool. I'm sorry, but that 11" triangle vacuum with no ability to steering is a mistake like the robot. The Dolphin s400 could barely climb the 8ft to 4ft depth, and it covers about only 1/2 or maybe 3/4 of the pool (if lucky) during a cycle of 2.5 hours. The 50-60 ft cord could barely reach the other side of the pool floor (see pics). And pine needles almost always tangle up the Dolphin motor fan. It's bad engineering on their part.

Wireform is right. I don't want the debris in my filters either. I'm looking to get the 60 micron bags and wish they make something with even less microns for more filtration.

I think the triangle vacuum head works well with a small pool and light debris. As a matter of fact, I wish someone would make a smaller lighter version of the riptide. Battery on the deck, brushless motor and tangle free cord in the water with an speed variable detachable suction motor, and a large capacity debris and various bag selections that will go down to 10 microns, and for a reasonable price, it would get a lot attention.

 

[wireform]

The lower the micron the finer the mesh so in reality it'll retain more in the bag but it has a flip side which is that it'll clog that much faster and stop pulling in the fines due to the fact that the mesh cloggs faster. I use mainly the 100 micron but when I look at a pool and there calcium debris on the pool floor I can only get half the pool vacuumed before I need to empty only because the bag collapses from being clogged up. I now use the 200 micron bag and can usually get through the complete pool. When there's more debris like after a storm it is the 400 micron bag that get used as anything smaller becomes a chore. If you know it's limitations the rest is cake.

 

[PGQ24]

I think I would use the smaller microns for weekly suction of sand and dusts / pollens that settle at the bottom of the pool and steps. I noticed that when I used the 100 micron, I can see the water gets a little cloudy for a very short period of time which I'm translating to the fact that the dust and small sands are still getting through the bag. My Riptide also comes with a smaller fan which I have not used. Is it safe to assume that the small fan will produce less suctions for lighter duty cleaning?

 

[wireform]

That's not what the small fan blade is for. When there's debris that has twigs in the pool they will get stuck between the blade tip and the vacuum head housing as there's very little clearance to enhance the suction therefore the small blade was designed so larger solids can pass through without stopping the motor dead. I can tell you from experience it will happen with the larger fan blade.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

All the big-boy pool companies I see around here have those Riptide's hanging off or sitting in the back of their service trucks. Those guys roll up to a residential pool, run the vacuum over it for a few minutes and suck up whatever they can. They pull it all out, measure and adjust chems (which is usually just chlorine/chlorine tablets and AlkUp), give the equipment pad a quick stink-eye check, and then run off to their next mark ... umm ... I mean "customer" ....

Me, personally, I'm ok with my 12" vacuum head and spending a lazy Saturday morning, 30-45mins tops, manually vacuuming my pool. But I do admit it would be cool to run one of those bad boys through the pool and see how much plaster it can suck off the gunite walls

 

[PGQ24]

I agree with you on the water chemical. Years ago, I went nuts with all the chemicals and trying to get my water balance to no avail. When in the last 10 years, I just add water in the summer, chlorine tablets (or salt when I had a chlorinator), and use used acid to clean up calcium when from the walls. Waters is always clear, and kids had no problem in the water. Debris and sanitization are my biggest concerns. For algae control, I use copper sulfate as needed during the warm months.

 

[ajw22]

For algae control, I use copper sulfate as needed during the warm months.

We never recommend using copper sulfate.

Copper in Pool Water - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

There should be no reason for algae control if you maintain an algae free pool using the
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test, SLAM Process as necessary, and maintaining the correct FC/CYA ratio.

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[wireform]

How are you testing/controlling chemistry.

 

[PGQ24]

I used copper sulfate in my small pool when it had black algae during the summer. It use it very sparingly. During the colder months, I use the chlorine tablet to "chalk" the black spots, which was very tedious but effective. I knew of no other way. Then I dropped a 3/4 dose of copper sulfate to keep the pool "blue." No staining is visible. This is on my saltwater pool which was about 18K gallon.

On the 65K gallon pool, it is not saltwater, but typically, I go through about 9-12 tablets a week on the hot summer months. It's got some stabilizers in it.

To test the water, I use the strips, and yes, at times, it is difficult to read the shades. But after a few years, you get use to it. Before coming to TFP, I used to get a lot of my information from Swim University videos and other online pool "experts." I am definitely no expert in pool chemistry and only know enough to keep my water "clear" and sanitized (chlorine levels) on cloudy days.

 

[ajw22]

Copper sulfate will work until it bites you and stains your pool.

Copper accumulates in the water and in Texas you do not dilute your pool much or drain it.

Running your Chlorine at the high end of the FC/CYA recommendations should keep black algae away once you get rid of it mechanically.

 

[TinFoilHat]

Get off the inaccurate test strips and into a good quality test kit that you can depend on. Use liquid chlorine instead of tablets and consider a SWG instead of that.
Test Kits Compared

 

[Newdude]

Not only will the copper get you eventually, but so will the sulfates. They are no good for concrete and metal, particularly the plates of the SWG.

 

[PGQ24]

I've had the SWG on the smaller pool for over 15 years. The saltwater rust everything it comes into contact with. Pool water splash on windows? Better wash it down with a garden hose. Basically anything metal that pool water comes into contact, I'd better hose it down afterwards, or it will rust. As you can see, I'm not a huge fan of SWG. Low pool maintenance at the cost of equipment, tools, and greater calcium build up / hard water. But the pool is always clear, sanitized, and the key was lower maintenance. I wondered if SWG is so great, why don't they use it on commercial pools?

When I acquired the larger pool, it didn't have an SWG. It didn't have major calcium build up. It was not hard on the equipment when water splashed or leaked from the pumps lids (8). I think more importantly, it's not going to rust out the heater components as fast. The chlorine tablets are definitely more expensive, but it has chlorine and stabilizers in it, too. I use shock when needed.

In Southeastern Texas, water evaporate like crazy in the summer months although fall/winter months are not as bad. My neighbors' and my water bill is always high during the summer months. I definitely hear you. I'll limit the use of copper sulfate. Thank you for the information.

 

[TinFoilHat]

Commercial pools don't use SWGs because they don't make them large enough to avoid multiple cells needing to be used on one pool at the same time. That plus there are ridiculous regulations that commercial pools have to follow regarding their chemicals. The corrosion you're seeing is not what most of us experience. But then my pool equipment is out behind my pool, sitting on a concrete slab surrounded by gravel. No metal to corrode over there and no windows nearby. Your corrosion is more likely from the salt air you have being on the coast. The ocean has 10 times the amount of salt as your pool would have and that in the air corrodes all metal everywhere near the coast. Metal will also be corroded from Chlorine fumes depending on where you store your tablets.