retaining wall around pool

[td3201]

Hello,

First post here. I'm looking to buy a house that has an in-ground pool. The house was built in 1996 and the current owners say the pool was there prior to them buying the house in 2004. Here's what I know:

• Liner is about 10 years old
• Heater or pump (can't remember) replaced in 2010
• No visible cracks on deck

I'm having someone go out and give me a better inspection of the situation but wanted to post here to help me be more knowledgeable during this process. I'm concerned about the retaining wall on one side of the pool. I have attached pictures. Things to note that I think are noteworthy:

1. Gaps in between bricks
2. Visible dirt that appears to be wash out
3. Settling of the landscape rocks on the top
4. Slope of the decking on the back side
   1. This may be as designed as there are no visible drains so makes sense to allow water to run off the deck

Again, I'm having some others visually inspect this stuff but I appreciate the advice, experiences, gotchas, whatever.

Thanks!

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! All things considered, it doesn't look too bad to me. I do see the slight leaning of the wall. I can't confirm if it was anything related to the pool itself, perhaps just the ground and weight of all the backfill finally pressing-up against it. But from the photo angles doesn't look too bad. The gaps between the Pavestones doesn't seem too excessive, and I would think it's good that water has a place to seep out of. I've hauled a few of those Pavestones myself, so I know someone went through a lot of working stacking those things.

But all of this is in the eye of the beholder now. While the original owners wanted that style, you may not. So I'd say do what YOU want to do later. Some people like to disguise the pool shell, others prefer to leave it (and the plumbing) exposed. As long as the water is crystal clear, that's most important. I would suspect your liner is reaching the end of its service life. 10-15 year is a pretty good run for many. I can't speak for the heater since I don't have one, but 10 years is a long time. A lot depends on the previous water chemistry and how well they maintained it.

Overall though it looks to be a very nice set-up. Feel free to post any other concerns you may have and others will reply as well I'm sure. Thanks for using the forum.

 

[duraleigh]

Those stacked blocks are supposed to have the gaps in them......that allows for drainage.

Is the wall leaning outward anywhere? Does it have a foundation?

 

[Bama Rambler]

Looking at the gap between the deck and retaining wall, it doesn't look like the wall has moved away from the decking, so I don't think there's a problem. As said above, the small gaps between the blocks are for drainage, as is the slope of the decking.

 

[td3201]

Thank you all for your replies. I should have someone out there next week to look at this. I got bad information. Apparently it’s a fiberglass pool. Any concerns there?

 

[Texas Splash]

Apparently it’s a fiberglass pool. Any concerns there?

FB pools are usually set in the ground for support. I can't tell from the photo, is the entire pool above ground and surrounded by stone? Or is it partially set in the ground? Some pools have fiberglass steps only, so you may have to pull the cover back to verify. At this point, not quite sure how it will effect the outcome unless the project is a deal-breaker for you with the new home. But a little more info might help. From our computer screens, it looks like a decent set-up, but we're not seeing everything you do.

 

[blakeusa]

The gaps in the pavers is for both drainage and to allow (gravel) to be filled between the blocks to help lock them together.

Paver block walls (or all retaining walls) for that matter need a good solid level base to start. If it was a DIY project its possible they
were light on this critical part. This is normally compacted processed gravel or gravel with gravel dust. This should be 2 feet below grade
at least for a wall that tall... then compacted with a mechanical vibrator compactor.

After the base is installed and compacted --- & level you can start installing the blocks. There is also an offset/ setback that the blocks
should be installed. Many paver wall blocks have these integrated into the blocks. This make the wall lean back for support.

Depending on the height of the wall - most recommended installing a geo-fabric after every few blocks which goes on top of the block
and the extends back like a blanket then is backfilled with material to strengthen the wall. see enclosed diagram.
ie. Geo-grid | The Bauer Company

Next I can not tell if the blocks are glued, and or pinned in place. IF not the blocks will move and fail.

Last the top cap of a block wall like your normally as a "Cap Stone" or a special block without spaces glued to the top to make a nice finished wall.
If that top block is not glued down it may look better to remove that top block and install capstone blocks. Most are 2.5 to 4" thick.

I can see the wall leaning a bit.. but without a better inspection its hard to tell why. The top course of blocks should be level.

Sometimes walls lean but are still structural or OK.

I will look at the pics again.

B

 

[td3201]

It is all underground. They yard is sloped so they brought in dirt witha retaining wall to level it out.

 

[Texas Splash]

It is all underground. They yard is sloped so they brought in dirt witha retaining wall to level it out.

Woo! Good. That's reassuring.