Replacing IC60

[jtech1]

I have Intellicenter with the built in swg transformer. I need to replace my IC60. I see a couple aftermarket cells that say they are a direct replacement. Does anyone have any experience with them? Do the use the same internal power supply and connector I already have on Intellicenter? Do they perform the same as the Pentair units? Do they talk to Intellicenter the same so my remotes and iPhone screenlogic will still show the % setting and salt level? At about 60% the cost of Pentair, even if I don't get 9 years out of it like I got with my IC60, it may still be worth it? Thanks!

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

If I get 9 years out of my cell, I won't hesitate to replace it with the same one. 

 

[jtech1]

Hoping to hear people's experience with aftermarket IC60 replacements. If I can get 7-8 years out of aftermarket and it integrates fully with IntelliCenter, then spending $800 vs $1500 for Pentair IC60 is worth it. I could buy two aftermarkets for one Pentair.

I am assuming my cell is bad from everything I read here... green cell light flashing. Acid clean with no bubbles. Green light still flashing after cleaning. Water 71 deg. Salt 3600. Nothing else I should be checking before I declare it dead?

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I haven't seen too much info on aftermarket Pentair units. Hopefully you'll get some constructive responses.

 

[jtech1]

As I am researching, of course, Pentair makes things difficult... I see they now have Intellichlor and iChlor. No real details about whether iChlor is replacing Intellichlor, or different use. And, of course, I see that Pentair is only honoring 3 mo warranty if bought online... so if I want full warranty I have to buy from store or pool vendor and spend even more $ on price and install? That is BS. Is there any place I can buy online and get the full warranty?

The other two I have found are Apex P60 and Calimar CMARCIC60. Both of which do not communicate RS485, but I guess that is not a big deal since I have Intellcenter powersupply tied to POOL relay. Just inconvenient to go to the unit to change % or see what salt level is.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

The iChlor and IntelliChlor are different platforms. Look up Pentair's e-commerce (EC) warranty. Go directly to their site. I seem to remember EC cells were covered for 2 years under the e-commerce warranty.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I've seen this retailer below recommended several times here on TFP. They should be an authorized Pentair e-commerce dealer. Check out the cells that begin with EC.

Pentair IntelliChlor

 

[proavia]

While the after market cells may have a cheaper price, they are also of a lesser quality and won't last as long as a genuine Pentair IC60 cell.

That being said, here is just one after market cell I saw - at half the price of a genuine IC60 cell.
Is it worth taking the chance - well, that's up to you.

APEX P60 Aftermarket Replacement Salt Cell fits Pentair IC60

Discount Salt Pool has the APEX P60 aftermarket replacement salt cell that fits a Pentair IC-60 cell (521105). Get the best price with this salt cell alternative.

www.discountsaltpool.com

 

[jtech1]

Thanks for the replies... I see that Pentair's definition of "EC" is "pay me $250 more and I'll give you a warranty for something I should be confident enough in to warranty from any place of purchase."

I have been disappointed with almost every Pentair piece of equipment I have bought. Globrite failed twice from cracking, I just leave it there now to fill the hole. Bubblers have been replaced 3x and my current ones already show signs of leaking (I marine seal them each year to try to extend their life). My LED pool lights are failing... one has been dying for a couple years and does its own thing with only certain colors, another this year is flashing when it comes on for a while and does not change colors. On my third Screeenlogic network adapter. The Screenlogic wireless adapter was trash and never worked. Replaced with a simple wifi adapter and put screenlogic adapter inside intellicenter panel. IntelliPh never worked right and was more hassle than it was worth... it sits there unused now. IntelliFlow pump controller failed and was replaced. The software on the system I is from the 90's... sorry, just venting... I have sunk many thousands of dollars into this that I should not have had to when I though I was buying the Cadillac 9 years ago. Problem is, if I replace one thing with another vendor I have to do everything if I want the automation to work. I just have a hard time spending another $1750 on another Pentair salt generator. But it looks like I have no other option if I want things to work toegther... and I'm not ready to spend $15K to replace it all.

 

[mknauss]

You will not get any information from an aftermarket cell to your Intellicenter. It will turn it on and off. That is all.

 

[jtech1]

I will be the guinea pig... At $700 for an aftermarket IC60 with 1 year warranty and $1750 for a Pentair IC60 with 1-yr warranty I am going aftermarket. I can buy 2.5 of them for the price of a Pentair... actually, more than that, because the cell can be replaced without buying a whole new unit. I should have it Tuesday and will report back on how things are working.

 

[jtech1]

The ICRF60 arrived two days early. I installed it in under 5 minutes. Simply shut off pool relay, disconnected IC60 power from Intellicenter, removed IC60, installed IRCF60, plugged into Intellicenter, turned on pool relay. The unit took about a minute to cycle through start-up tests. I checked FC and salt level before installing. Taylor salt level was 3600. ICRF60 salt level displayed 3630. MUCH closer than Pentair IC60 ever was (frequently off by a few hundred ppm). I set it to 100% and will check the FC levels in about 6 hours to see how it is doing. So far, so good.

 

[Flying Tivo]

Let us know, thanks!

 

[jtech1]

So far so good. After running for 18 hours (I let it run from 2pm to 8am next day) at 100% (30 gpm) to see what it could produce on max, FC went from 3.5 to 8.5. I am still in the process of getting my CYA up to 60-90 range where I maintain it, but it is at 50 right now and it was full sun yesterday. I have switched it to 30% today and will see if I am still in the 3-8 FC range at the end of the day.

I like the fact that on this unit you can replace the cell once it's life is up without having to replace the entire unit, lowering the cost to maintain it even further. The flow switch can also be swapped out pretty easily. The display is much better than the Pentair IC60, and you can access details like water and cell temp, voltage and current draw, generator run hours, etc. I could not find a way to get run hours on Pentair IC60.

I remember one of my other issues with the Pentair system... When I bought it all, I thought by having IntelliChlor and IntellipH that it would monitor ORP and control IC60 to keep things stable... I quickly leanrned that there is no intelligent control of IC60 possible with Pentair "Intelli"... and ORP is not accurate enough even if the Pentair system supported it. And every day I would get Screenlogic alerts when pool circuit shut off that IC lost comm. So, some things I don't have to worry about missing from the Pentair unit.

 

[jtech1]

After a few days, even though my CYA is still about 15 below where I keep it, I am able to maintain 3-8 FC with the SWG at 50%, and pump running 15 hours a day at 30 gpm. Once CYA is up where I like it, I may even be able to reduce SWG to 40%. I will post back after a week or so, but so far, very happy with the unit, and the $1000 savings.

 

[Turbo1Ton]

After a few days, even though my CYA is still about 15 below where I keep it, I am able to maintain 3-8 FC with the SWG at 50%, and pump running 15 hours a day at 30 gpm. Once CYA is up where I like it, I may even be able to reduce SWG to 40%. I will post back after a week or so, but so far, very happy with the unit, and the $1000 savings.

If you think about it, please keep us posted through the summer or at the end of the pool season, on how it has worked out. I will be in the market for an IC60 in the next several years as my IC40 is nearing 5 years of service.

--Jeff

 

[jgofnj]

After a few days, even though my CYA is still about 15 below where I keep it, I am able to maintain 3-8 FC with the SWG at 50%, and pump running 15 hours a day at 30 gpm. Once CYA is up where I like it, I may even be able to reduce SWG to 40%. I will post back after a week or so, but so far, very happy with the unit, and the $1000 savings.

I was looking at the website and noticed this picture (below). Are these two parts sold separately? It doesn't look like they are but it also looks like you can just replace the top part (if you already have the base)

 

[JoyfulNoise]

I was looking at the website and noticed this picture (below). Are these two parts sold separately? It doesn't look like they are but it also looks like you can just replace the top part (if you already have the base)
View attachment 579849

You’re the guinea pig … let’s us know what you find out.

Also, just as a counterpoint, my original Pentair equipment is going on 12 years of service life and it is all still original except for the SWG. I had an IC40 that lasted 7 years and I replaced it with an IC60. Not a single issue with the entire system other than the PB did some dumb things with the plumbing. I do believe you that you’ve had problems with your equipment and I have always stayed away from the IntelliPH/IntelliCHEM units because I think they are a waste and an added unnecessary complexity, but many people have them and they work fine. Also, all of my lighting is old school halogen and I don’t have any bubblers, but the entire LED pool light and non-pool lighting industry is complete garbage in terms of manufacturing and quality control. I think you may have gotten some lemons and if Pentair didn’t help you on that through their warranty then that’s bad on them. But their equipment is high quality and I put them in the #1 spot of the top three manufacturers.

Hope your non-OEM cell gives you lots of long and trouble free service life ….

 

[jgofnj]

You’re the guinea pig … let’s us know what you find out.

Also, just as a counterpoint, my original Pentair equipment is going on 12 years of service life and it is all still original except for the SWG. I had an IC40 that lasted 7 years and I replaced it with an IC60. Not a single issue with the entire system other than the PB did some dumb things with the plumbing. I do believe you that you’ve had problems with your equipment and I have always stayed away from the IntelliPH/IntelliCHEM units because I think they are a waste and an added unnecessary complexity, but many people have them and they work fine. Also, all of my lighting is old school halogen and I don’t have any bubblers, but the entire LED pool light and non-pool lighting industry is complete garbage in terms of manufacturing and quality control. I think you may have gotten some lemons and if Pentair didn’t help you on that through their warranty then that’s bad on them. But their equipment is high quality and I put them in the #1 spot of the top three manufacturers.

Hope your non-OEM cell gives you lots of long and trouble free service life ….

Actually Jtech1 is. He is the one who bought it. I was just simply asking a question about what I saw on the website. My IC40 is working perfectly fine with no issues.

 

[pvengkman]

Hey all... I'm searching posts to see if I can find anyone who's experienced anything similar with a generic salt cell. I have an apex p60 that I installed to replace a Pentair IC40 a few months ago. I simply took out the dead cell from my Pentair Easy touch system and hooked up the Apex generic unit using the existing power supply cord. Pretty much plug and Play. It ran great for the first month or so with heavy usage and kept the pool perfectly. Chlorinated. I was very happy however a few weeks back or maybe a month I'll go now I started seeing issues with it not putting enough chlorine out. I took it apart and cleaned it; put it back together and started getting a red check cell warning light. I have been going back and forth with customer service sharing pictures of the diagnostic screen on it and he can't tell me definitely what the issue could be. He suggested taking everything apart and checking the connections which I'm doing as well as cleaning the cell once again, as there is a little calcium build up, however I'm worried that this still is not going to take. I will attempt some more troubleshooting with their support team, but I'm going to give up if it doesn't solve the issue soon. Has anyone experienced anything similar that they can speak of ? TIA!!