I was able to disassemble the light, sprayed it down with some electrical contact cleaner, siliconed the gaskets and such, dielectric grease on the connections, reassembled and it worked great again until a couple weeks ago. Now it turns on for about 30 seconds on white, then turns red or green and instantly turns off. Turning it off for a second or 2 (sometimes longer) and then back will change it back to white, until 30 seconds later when the cycle repeats... If I could just get it to stay white life would be good.
In the screenlogic setup I changed the circuit from Lights/Intellibrite, to being just a generic circuit, hoping that it would then function as an on/off switch rather than trying to put on a colorshow but it still wants to cycle through all the colors.
Is there a way to get it to chill out and stick to white?
You need to put the transformer between your 120v line and the light cable. You sound like you aren't very sure about wiring so maybe call a professional pool or electrician to do this. You need a step down xformer 100watt minimum if only one light hook up. Also put the light on the 13v tap inside the xformer. Modern lights seem to require 13-14 volts now. Especially if the run is long underground. Your current new board will not work inside that colorlogic light. That light is specifically made for 120v Unless you are an electrical engineer your best bet is to buy yourself a proper voltage light and pull a new cord through. If you do run a step down xformer make sure you get a 12v rated light. The intellibrite boards are replaceable so you can save that new one for when that one goes. Longest led light I've seen this far in 16-17 years was a 7.5 year old intellibrite. Led lights unfortunately do not do well under water. Heat is the main failure. That and water intrusion. Assembling a light and gasket properly is much harder than people assume. 90% of my failed light calls are diy jobs from a few days before. If you add a xformer you need to find the line that feeds your light switch and where that connects to the pool light junction box. Then you need to find a spot on the wall to add your xformer in between. Your 120v side feeds the xformer primary. Your pool light itself would hook up to the secondary. All modern xformers for pools have a 12-13-14 volt tap. Intermatic makes a solid 12v xformer. Any should do as long as it's rated equal or more then the lights wattage. You can normally get 2-3 led lights on one 12v xformer.
What I meant was that the cord from the pool light must be run directly to the gfi in the intellicenter box. Following the wires from the breaker to the relay, to the gfi and out of the box confirm they go straight into the ground and not the transformer. My thought was take the light whip that connects to the gfi, and move those over to a transformer so the light is now powered by the transformer. The transformer is currently wired directly to a breaker so I'd move those wires from the breaker to the gfi's load terminals so protection wouldn't be lost. At the light I'd remove the current board, and cut the wires but leave the pass through grommet and sealant in place, connect the new board with the old wires now connected to the transformer, reassemble the fixture and ideally call it a day.
