Replacing bulb, question

jnojr

0
Silver Supporter
Dec 18, 2018
124
Chandler, AZ
When I took the housing apart, the screw holding the front to the back was tightened all the way down. With the new gasket, I can screw it in about half way, and it gets REALLY hard to turn. Do I need to tighten all the way, or is having it tight good enough?
 
Can you post a few pictures of the light and screw, or post a make/model number of the light. Not sure which light and which screw on which light you are talking about...
 
That is a pentai Intellibrite 619562.
It may be cross threaded as @TinFoilHat indicated. Does it come apart again easily?
You should not have to tighten it all the way down to the head, and certainly don't need to tighten it to the point that the loop bends.
Replacement loop and bolt: 79111000 (for reference, not saying you need one).
 

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When I took the housing apart, the screw holding the front to the back was tightened all the way down. With the new gasket, I can screw it in about half way, and it gets REALLY hard to turn. Do I need to tighten all the way, or is having it tight good enough?
Just throwing this out there because of what I experienced. Make sure the hoop is under all of the hooks. If you accidentally miss one, you'll never be able to tighten the screw all the way.
 
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Also try undoing the retainer and flipping it the other way. This repositions how the end loops align with one another as you tighten the ring and may allow the loops to come closer as you tighten the nut. Also be sure to keep uplift tension on the retainer ring evenly on all locking hoops as you tighten. Oh yeah…don’t get discouraged if it takes several attempts to get a water tight seal (speaking from experience here).
 
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Correct gasket part? Also ensure the gasket is oriented properly - many are stamped with "THIS SIDE TOWARD POOL". Also coat the gasket with non-petro based lube, like Jacks or MagicLube. Afterward monitor the enclosure for water intrusion.
 
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I had one of two new bulb installations with water creeping in after a couple of weeks. Drove me crazy removing and refitting the gasket and locking ring. Finally went to using a coat of silicon around the outside of the gasket, which worked for me.

As an aside, commonly misunderstood is the degree to which silicon will degrade in water, salt or otherwise. Fresh and salt water aquarians builders make extensive use of silicon in aquarium builds, both for its superior water tight and strengthing properties; and generally its resistant to degradation from uv light due to their stable Si-O bonds (chains of repeating silicon-oxygen bonds, or Si-O). Not all silicons are alike however so it’s important to choose the right one. Loctite Clear Silicon performed exceptionally well for me if you choose to go that route (and favored by aquarium enthusiasts who build their own tanks).

FWIW, I found my one bulb replacement vexing, to say the least. It had enough cord to allow me to submerge it under water in my adjacent spill over spa so I could monitor it (weighted down as it will float). A learned lesson from having put back my first replaced bulb into the pool wall niche only to discover a water line in it 4 days later (hence the wisdom mentioned above of monitoring . . . to be safe, for at least a week as leakage can take quite a while to manifest).

Best of luck.
 

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