Recent tests at Pinch-a-Penny

[diane135130]

I am attaching yesterday's test results which are similar, but not exact, as my Taylor K-2006 test kit. My question is: why would I increase my CYA? I use liquid chlorine invested of tabs because the tabs raise my CYA. I had this problem a few years ago when my CYA went up to 100 causing the 'lock' and it took me a long time to bring it down so I've been using liquid chlorine along with and 1 or 2 tablets weekly. Their reading is 30 but my Taylor reading is 50. I'm currently in the process of treating for phosphates so water is somewhat cloudy. (treated yesterday late afternoon). Started with new filter and skimmer sock. Just finished cleaning filter and skimmer sock. Water is slowly clearing up. Once it's back to normal and I dose with a good clarifier, I need to know what products to use to maintain proper pH (wish al always runs high) and maintain the proper chlorine and cya levels. 23k rectangle plaster pool. See pic of chemistry results from yesterday. I've been maintaining my own pool for about 4 years now... Replastered 3 years ago, purchased Dolphin Triton PS robot about 2 years ago and just had new Pentair Variable Speed Super Flow installed about a week ago. Still trying to program the correct RPM over 24 hours but I think I've got it.

 

[Texas Splash]

Diane, we would first recommend to stick with your own K-2006 test kit. The local store results are not only (often) incorrect, but they will confuse you and cause you to doubt your own testing. If you have a concern with how to test any item with your K-2006, let us know and we'll help you through it.

That said, I would trust your own CYA test of 50. No need to increase it at this time. What does concern me is that you are being swayed to treat phosphates and use a clarifier. I would recommend you do neither. Phosphates are a negligible items in our TFP pools when there is no algae, and a clarifier can gunk-up your filter (just like floc), so stay away from those snake oils. Liquid chlorine is your pool's best defense.

Since your water seems to be cloudy, there is already a concern for algae, so run an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test first. If you pass, great. But if you fail, then you have to do the SLAM Process. Let us know how that goes and we can help you through that as well. Today though, use enough chlorine to get that FC level up to about 8 - 10 ppm. Try to keep it in that zone all day before you start your OCLT. Hope that helps.

 

[diane135130]

Thank you for the info. My pool has never been cloudy which is why I posted the pics which show my crystal clear water. It's cloudy now due to the phosphate removal treatment which I did yesterday and it's already clearing up. Also, I just tested for phosphates and it's down from 1000 to 200 so that's good. Chlorine is still up there and pH is still perfect at 7.4. I agree with you not to increase cya and I love using liquid chlorine but it goes down quickly so hoping that lowering the phosphate will help and also continue using liquid chlorine while monitoring the use of tabs that have stabilizer in them, and I do that by monitoring my cya. Does that make sense to you? By the way, I also add a weekly dose of enzymes, which I love the way it feels and keeps the tile clean.

 

[Texas Splash]

Does that make sense to you?

I do understand where you are going. But from a TFP perspective, the phosphate/enzyme treatments are generally not needed and money not required. Remember phosphates are basically algae food, but if you have no algae, the phosphate level is irrelevant. Many of us here have not tested our phosphates level in years. When it comes to sanitation and crystal clear water, it's all about the FC-CYA relationship per the FC/CYA Levels. That is key. Find your CYA (50) on the chart and go to the corresponding FC range and that's what you maintain. Later when it gets hotter you might need a slightly higher CYA level. Especially in hot climates a CYA of 60 is reasonable. No need to go there yet, but what I'm saying is free chlorine disappears for two basic reasons: the sun's UV rays and bacteria/organics. The CYA takes care of the UV part, and the chlorine takes care of the bacteria/organics.

If you are ever in doubt about the FC level dropping too fast in a 24 hr period (more than 4 ppm), do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. Many owners have had algae and never knew it because their water was clear.

 

[diane135130]

I do understand where you are going. But from a TFP perspective, the phosphate/enzyme treatments are generally not needed and money not required. Remember phosphates are basically algae food, but if you have no algae, the phosphate level is irrelevant. Many of us here have not tested our phosphates level in years. When it comes to sanitation and crystal clear water, it's all about the FC-CYA relationship per the FC/CYA Levels. That is key. Find your CYA (50) on the chart and go to the corresponding FC range and that's what you maintain. Later when it gets hotter you might need a slightly higher CYA level. Especially in hot climates a CYA of 60 is reasonable. No need to go there yet, but what I'm saying is free chlorine disappears for two basic reasons: the sun's UV rays and bacteria/organics. The CYA takes care of the UV part, and the chlorine takes care of the bacteria/organics.

If you are ever in doubt about the FC level dropping too fast in a 24 hr period (more than 4 ppm), do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. Many owners have had algae and never knew it because their water was clear.

Thank you! I've never had it drop they drastically so I guess I'm doing the right thing! Yay me!!!