Raypak 406A Repair

Ddeem

0
Apr 28, 2018
4
Doylestown
Hi Everyone-

I recently had success fixing High Limit 2 error and wanted to provide some insight. First, my heater is the 406a with fresh water pool that is on 5th season this summer. Last year, the spa would heat up to about 98 degrees then start throwing the high limit 2 code. It would cycle on and off less then a minute and took additional 25 minutes to heat up to usual 103 temp we have set. Frustrating as it takes much more time and cycles on / off.

I replaced the thermostat but no change. Then, I pulled the manifold off and replaced the internal bypass (says silver spring for 406a) and also replaced both high limit sensors. Before putting it all back together, I added some high temp fireplace insulation to tin shield and made two galvanized clips from joist type of hanger / ties. Bent then in half like a clothes pin and it worked great. All perfect now and it heats right to 103 or 104 if set to that temp.

My experience is that the heater seemed to be in pretty poor condition. It is a shame since it is not very old. I don’t feel it was the internal bypass as that seemed fine. If I could do it over again and to save some time, I would have just pulled the top cover, additional manifold tin cover and replaced the high limit sensors / insulate the tin cover as mentioned by many. Easy and inexpensive first step and I am very certain this was the issue. Maybe the sensors were just heated on the outside so many times that they did not insulate as well or had hairlines cracks. But due to the inexpensive price to replace both, that would be my first step next time with these same high limit errors that many seem to be having.

Pics included show the rush on bottom pan of burner stand along with the clips / high temp fireplace insulation added to tin cover.

Hope this helps.

Dave
 

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How old is your heater?

Yeah, those natural draft Raypak heaters start rusting away from the ground up. I think that is why Raypak has come out with the Avia forced draft heater.

 
Been experiencing the same problem with my Raypak heater. Not the corrosion, but the High Limit 2 fault. It worked great for the first six months I had it, but then it would randomly throw the HL2 fault error. Eventually the HL2 switch died entirely and the heater would throw the error just sitting idle with cold water. I replaced the switch and it worked great for about a month, but unfortunately, the problem has returned. I'll try wrapping the sensors in some adhesive engine bay heatshield, but I'm really out of any other ideas. I picked the Raypak for the high degree of simplicity, but this particular issue is getting annoying.
 
I would recommend replacing both the high limit sensors. They are $39 each on Amazon or EBay and are same part number. Then, insulate that shield. Maybe there is a bad batch of those sensors. I am 99% sure my sensors were bad and not a flow issue. The flow never made a difference for me. But I can say after about 4 weeks of using the spa, the new sensors with some insulation on that small tin cover is working perfect. Will hear right to 104 degrees now with no faults. Dave
 
My 406A is having a different problem with the same result, it is sensing water temp, firing and heating but the heated temp is way off, It only took 15 minutes for the control panel temperature to go from 70 to 104. Then the heater shut down like it should. I am thinking I have a bad water temp sensor on the intake side. I found them on amazon and am thinking about ordering one just to try.
 
My 406A is having a different problem with the same result, it is sensing water temp, firing and heating but the heated temp is way off, It only took 15 minutes for the control panel temperature to go from 70 to 104. Then the heater shut down like it should. I am thinking I have a bad water temp sensor on the intake side. I found them on amazon and am thinking about ordering one just to try.
Temp sensor is always the first place to look. Is this reading with or without automation?
 
I am sorry, I do not understand what you mean about with or without automation? I was able to get into the diagnostic control panel and I do have two errors. Pressure switch and faulty sensor but it does not state which sensor.
I am going to attempt to run the heater without the cartridges in the filter housing to see if that makes a difference. It could be that I need to adjust my pressure switch
 
I am sorry, I do not understand what you mean about with or without automation? I was able to get into the diagnostic control panel and I do have two errors. Pressure switch and faulty sensor but it does not state which sensor.
I am going to attempt to run the heater without the cartridges in the filter housing to see if that makes a difference. It could be that I need to adjust my pressure switch
Faulty sensor is always the temperature sensor, that's the only one in the system. All other devices are switches of one sort or another. Was asking if you were seeing the temperature reading on the heater itself or an indoor panel, like an EZTouch or Jandy RS.
 

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This is reading on the control panel, I do not have a remote system hooked up to the heater.

I ordered a new sensor yesterday from Amazon. It is amazing to me that Rheem/Raypak will not sell me the parts nor will Aloha Pools but I can get the parts from multiple places online. Sensor should be here Monday, maybe I will not need the heater by the time I get it installed!! LOL Wishful thinking I know!
 
This is reading on the control panel, I do not have a remote system hooked up to the heater.

I ordered a new sensor yesterday from Amazon. It is amazing to me that Rheem/Raypak will not sell me the parts nor will Aloha Pools but I can get the parts from multiple places online. Sensor should be here Monday, maybe I will not need the heater by the time I get it installed!! LOL Wishful thinking I know!
As a manufacturer, Rheem/RayPak/American Standard does not operate at the retail level. If Aloha Pools is a builder its probably the same.
 
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