Proper way to install new waterline tile?

KeysNole

0
In The Industry
May 7, 2016
45
Ft. Lauderdale, FL
We will be having new tile put in as part of our renovation. Installers have different answers to each question below. I am hoping some of the pros on here can chime in:

Flashing vs no flashing?

Waterproofing underlayment?

Standard grout vs epoxy grout?

Standard thinset vs a modified thinset?

Anything else we need to look for in an installation?
 
Some people down here quote flashing and some have never heard of it. It's strange.

Is a roll on water proof like Jamo or Red Guard ok? Thank you for the tips.

I feel that a cementitious waterproofing material is a better option. I've seen red guard used but I don't know how it held up long term. I'm not certain but it may not be rated for continuous submersion
 
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I stand corrected, their literature states that it is acceptable for pools and water features


Seems ironic to use waterproofing for something that is submerged. Is the purpose to stop moisture from behind the tile, coming from the concrete? I can see where water from behind the tile may help to work it loose.
 
Seems ironic to use waterproofing for something that is submerged. Is the purpose to stop moisture from behind the tile, coming from the concrete? I can see where water from behind the tile may help to work it loose.

The purpose is to prevent the pool water from deteriorating the cementitious materials that aren't waterproof like grout, thinset, mortar beds, and gunite.

Lack of waterproofing is the primary reason for tile failures and rust stains on plaster surfaces.
 
@bdavis466 why does it seem some people thoroseal the gunite prior to plaster? Is this an added layer or protection, or is there another reason?
Because plaster isn't completely waterproof either and that's why you see so many issues with the rebar rusting through the plaster.

BaseCrete is probably the best surface prep that I've come across.
 
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The purpose is to prevent the pool water from deteriorating the cementitious materials that aren't waterproof like grout, thinset, mortar beds, and gunite.

Lack of waterproofing is the primary reason for tile failures and rust stains on plaster surfaces.

I talked to Mapei about my upcoming water line tile replacement. Basically wanted to know the best thinset for tile that will be submerged. They said while any of their thinsets can be submerge, for most you need to wait 2-3 weeks for full cure before filling with water. If you use granirapid (Granirapid System), you can fill back up with water in 3 days (72 hours). Seems like a lot of the pros use this over on the pro tile forum, John Bridge Tile forum. Its not cheap, about $80 for a bag of thinset and liquid. But for something like submerged tile you cant afford to use a product that will fail (or wait the full cure time).

Just thought I'd share.
 
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