Pool service guy using chlorine tabs on my salt water pool

[Teamd]

I ended service with my pool company to save money and start taking care of pool ourselves. Went to have water tested and found out that the chlorine was at an 8.
Went home and fiddled with my jandy aqua pure and try to see if it was working. The display lights up but won't respond. Called pool service company and asked why he hadn't told us salt cell ( that they installed 4 years ago) wasn't working. His explanation was that sometimes it worked and sometimes it didn't. So he just use chlorine as a "backup".
He has been putting tabs in pool floaters and in our skimmers since the beginning. We always just trusted what he was doing and never gave it thought.
Does this sound normal? Do you think that whatever damage is going on to the salt cell could be caused by the chlorine? They are quoting me $1,060 for a new electric board.

 

[jeffchap]

That sounds totally unethical, but I doubt that any damage has been done to your cell by the tablets, as the primary function of the cell is to generate chlorine and the levels it would experience while it was working would be many times greater than what it saw from the chlorine already in your water passing over it.

Besides, there would always be chlorine passing through your SWG. Whether it was generated, poured in from a jug of bleach, or came from tablets, your SWG doesn't know the difference.

 

[cowboycasey]

welcome to TFP

I did a search and found some info about your SWG, seems @jamesW knows some stuff on it

Jandy Aquapure 1400 front board or back board?

this is from his troubleshooting

"Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the front board. Press and hold the test*
buttons marked salinity and R-temp. While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’
key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.*
While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’). It*
should read 75° F or 24° C.*
Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’
key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front*
cover of the unit. The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .*
If the readings are correct then the front board is O.K. and the problem is with the flow sensor."

I wish I could help more

 

[LFrankow]

Welcome to TFP
Update your signature with spec's on your pool and equipment, that way someone who has the same unit and trouble may be able to shed some insight.

 

[JamesW]

Is that what the display looks like all the time?

 

[ping]

Welcome to TFP!

One of the first things to do is raise the salinity to 3500ppm. After the salinity is in the correct range we will need to see if there are any other errors that the SWG will display.

The question I would have is when did these problems start with the cell and should it have been replaced under warranty. It sounds like the company is shady and you most likely have to fix this on your own. It should be less than a $1000 to repair and we can help you do it yourself if you are up to it.

 

[Vickery]

Welcome to TFP!

Now you understand why we don't trust "professional" pool people. They aren't all bad....just enough of them are to make the rest seem suspect. Spend some quality time reading "Pool School" and the "ABC's". Between readings, order a test kit. I rely on my TF100. Get the XL version. Learning how to do it and do it correctly is not difficult. It will allow you to enjoy the cleanest, most sparkling water you can have and understand the process. And spend far less time than you thought it would.