Pool pump won't turn on

[Drmene]

Wife just mentioned that the pool pump wasn't running.
It's a pentair Sf-n1-1-1/2A. 1.5HP motor.
It's wired from the houses main breaker --> breaker box for the pool equipment --> timer switch (mechanical dial one) which sends power to the pool pump and a salt generator.

When I manually switch the power on at the timer switch, the pool pump doesn't turn on, but the salt generator does. No whine, no hum from the pool pump motor.

Things I've checked

- Flipped pool pump breakers at main house panel off/on
- Flipped breakers at the breaker box for the pool equipment off/on
- Ran a voltage tester pen along the wire from the timer to the the pool pump (lazy, but I'm trying to rule out the easy things first) and it lights up the entire way down.
- Opened up the pump basket and can spin the impeller by hand easily (maybe too easy?).
- Removed the capacitor. It's a 30 micro faraday +/- 6%. Tested capacitance and it's at 27.7 so about 9.2% lower than advertised. No bulging that I can visually see.

I've ordered a new capacitor but I've read that up to -10% should still be able to start the motor or I should at least hear a hum.
I'm just wondering if what other troubleshooting I can do?

 

[Drmene]

Some.more.trouble shooting.

- multimeter is reading 120v per input and output lines at the mechanical timer
- also getting 120v at both lines at the back of the pool pump motor
- can spin the motor shaft easily by hand

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! @JamesW might have more insight on the capacitor testing itself, but a bad cap would still be my first guess. Curious to know what happens when yo replace it.

 

[Drmene]

Thank you for the welcome! I've been lurking and reading for a few months.

New cap arrived this morning.
Tested it before installing and it read as 30.3 microfaraday.

Unfortunately it didn't solve the problem.
No activity at the motor or hum or anything.

 

[JamesW]

Check the voltage line to line.

Disconnect the incoming power wires from the timer and then check each line to ground and check the voltage line to line.

 

[Drmene]

Check the voltage line to line.

Disconnect the incoming power wires from the timer and then check each line to ground and check the voltage line to line.

After disconnecting L1 and L2 from the back of the pump motor

122v Line to ground for L1 & L2 each

244v line to line

 

[JamesW]

With the power wires removed from the motor and the capacitor removed, check resistance from L1 to L2 on the motor.

Can you show pictures of everything?

 

[Drmene]

Just a caveat, I'm handy and have experience with pc's etc. Large household appliances are new to me so please feel free to point out my errors. I love learning.

I get 0 when I have my multimeter set to 200 ohms.

I've attached a few pictures. New capacitor is the left one. Any other pictures that would help?

 

[Drmene]

I also did measure L2 on the pump to ground while the incoming wire was disconnected. Only L1 wire was connected to the pump motor. It read 13v volts. Would this indicate a short?

Also I have a spare pool pump that is the same model motor and housing. The shaft is seized. But I can scavenger parts from it possibly.

Everything pool wise was here when we moved in and I'm trying for a repair as we may be moving out soon.

 

[JamesW]

OL means Open Line, which indicates that the windings are probably gone.

Was the capacitor charged when you checked it?

0 ohms would be no resistance, which would be a direct short.

 

[Drmene]

I don't believe the capacitor was charged.

I had just reinstalled it without having the lines connected to the pump motor.

 

[JamesW]

I think that the motor windings are open, which means a bad motor.

Do you have a heater or need high flow for any reason?

 

[Drmene]

No heater. Only a salt cell and a cartridge filter.
The pump is closer to the skimmer and drain and further from the jets.

 

[JamesW]

Looks like you need a new motor.

What is the pump part number from the front sticker?

Century (A.O. Smith) 1.5 HP Up Rate Motor, Square Flange 56Y Frame, Single Speed - Model B2854V1, B2854, - INYOPools.com

Looking for a high-quality replacement pool pump motor? The Century B2854 1.5HP motor is a perfect fit for Pentair WhisperFlo, Jandy Stealth, and Pentair SuperFlo pump models. With its durable construction and reliable performance, this motor is designed to keep your pool running smoothly for...

www.inyopools.com

https://www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/nam/pentair-pool/residential/parts-sheets/pool-pumps/SuperFlo_Pump.pdf

 

[Drmene]

I think it's 340039

 

[JamesW]

You need a 1.65 HP (total) square flange motor.

Century (A.O. Smith) 1.65 HP Up Rate Motor, Square Flange 48Y Frame, Single Speed - Model HSQ165 - INYOPools.com

Century (A.O. Smith) 1.65 HP Up Rate Motor, Square Flange 48Y Frame, Single Speed - Model HSQ165

www.inyopools.com

 

[Drmene]

Also is it plausible to retrofit the housing with a variable speed pump? If I understand correctly, I would need to run power directly (bypass the timer) to a VS pump.

Would a seal kit be advised regardless of if I go single speed or VS?

I'm now thinking that a power surge from a recent storm may have fried the motor so I've been researching adding a surge protector like an intertek

Also I really appreciate all the help and troubleshooting tips!

 

[JamesW]

Also is it plausible to retrofit the housing with a variable speed pump?

Yes.

Would a seal kit be advised regardless of if I go single speed or VS?

Yes.

 

[JamesW]

Variable Speed Pool Pump Motors - INYOPools.com

Replace your outdated pool pump motor with a variable speed motor which can save you up to 80% on your operational costs - INYOpools.com

www.inyopools.com

 

[JamesW]

Nidec/US Motors Neptune 1.65 THP Square Flange Variable Speed Motor 115/230V - NPTQ165

Shop online today for the Nidec/US Motors Neptune 1.65 THP Square Flange Variable Speed Motor 115/230V - NPTQ165 at Waterline Technologies

waterlinetechnologies.com