Pool ph very low, Chlorine very high and pool stay green

[Erwee]

Hello everyone, I'm very new to pools and intress me alot. I have had the pool go green en blue so oven this few months untill i got bad advice and added too much pool acid. I have added baking soda, soda ash both in some what to 2 kg each. I have backwashed my pool and added new water and the levels if my ph stays low and chlorine levels high. I have removed my chlorine bomb and left the pool open in the sun to bring down chlorine but yet no luck. I need some good advice please

 

[kimkats]

Hi! You have come to the correct place to get the pretty pool blue again. First I have a couple of questions for you:

-How are you testing your pool? If you don't have your own test kit you NEED to get one. Here is a link to a company that will ship to your part of the world:
Total Pool Water Testing Kit, Fresh Water – Clear Choice Labs please note TFP is not affiliated with this company at all. We just know there test kits have everything you need.

-Do you have any water features on this pool? If not you can turn the return eyeballs up so they roll the water good. This pushes the PH up. See this:

Recommended Pool Chemicals

Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.

www.troublefreepool.com

-Have you found a good source for liquid chlorine in your area? If not do so asap. To clear your pool of the green (algae) you are going to need liquid chlorine and quite a bit of it.

To clear your pool of the green algae you need to SLAM the pool as seen here:
SLAM Process

The number one thing you need to do this is a good test kit of your own as you will be testing a lot.

 

[Erwee]

So i have a testing kit that tests my free chlorine as well as my ph. My ph is extreamly low and my chlorine extreamly high. There is nou sign of algea accept that the water is green. Will the Slam process still be the right choice and if i use algeacide would that help if i do it before or after the slam process

 

[HermanTX]

each. I have backwashed my pool and added new water and the levels if my ph stays low and chlorine levels high. I have removed my chlorine bomb and left the pool open in the sun to bring down chlorine but yet no luck. I need some good advice please

You need to provide us some data. What is your pH level? What is your FC level? What test method did you use to achieve those values?
Borax will raise your pH but need to know where you are starting at to provide accurate information. Do you have access to Borax?
What is a “chlorine bomb”? Is this some sort of shock for the pool?
How much water did you add? If it was just during a backwash then that may be only couple of hundred gallons.
Have you measured your CYA?

I would not use an algaecide and we need to know actual values of FC, pH, TA and CYA as a minimum.
Green water indicates algae but a full set of test values would be best before recommendations can be provided.

 

[JJ_Tex]

So i have a testing kit that tests my free chlorine as well as my ph. My ph is extreamly low and my chlorine extreamly high.

It is hard to give advice based on generic terms such as "extremely high". What is your pH and Chlorine? Do you have any of the other key metrics such as CYA/stabilizer?

I also like to keep it simple when dealing with someone with a green pool as they can go down many rabbit holes and chase things like pH, TA, etc that have no bearing on your pool being green. Green pools are caused by 1 of 2 things:

1. Algae (most common), which is caused by chlorine not being high enough for your CYA level. The SLAM process is the best way to kill all of the algae.
2. Metals in your pool (less common) - Sometimes metals can be in your pool, most commonly iron if you are on a well or if your municipal water system has iron in it. Metals can also be added by certain products, particularly those containing blue substances or "minerals".

 

[Mdragger88]

We need to know your exact numbers.
Fc, ph, ta, cya -
Without these numbers we are all flying blind & guessing.
Show us what test you’re using.
I suspect it is a Total chlorine test (yellow drops) not an fas/dpd test which is what is needed to test free chlorine & combined chlorine separately at levels over 5ppm.
The amount of free chlorine you need is based on your cya level so it may be high or it may be too low to eradicate algae depending upon your current cya level.

How have you been chlorinating the pool?
(List the ingredients in the products used)
What types of chlorine products do you have access to?
If you’re unable to aquire the proper tests needed that Maddie linked for you
(fc (fas/dpd) cya, ph,ta) then you won’t be able to perform the
SLAM Process to clear your pool & should probably consider a complete water exchange so you can start fresh. Then you can follow this guide going forward since your pool is not that big-

Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools

Smaller seasonal pools can see just as much enjoyment as their larger counterparts. In this guide we'll show you how to maintain your temporary pool.

www.google.com

Pool Care Basics