Pool pad plumbing overhaul advice needed

[rs485]

My pool was built in 1986 and looks like it had its last major overhaul in 2000 based on the date codes on the valves. When I purchased the house the heater was condemned, the pool hadnt been running and was totally green. The pool company i hired (knowing nothing at all about pools at the time) did jandy stuff so they put the heater and filter in.
The current setup is an old intermatic timer and i put a wifi relay in so i could control the booster pump remotely but since getting a robotic cleaner its just running a little fountain i made and i plan on removing it / capping the pipe.

I recently purchased an Intellicenter, IC60, combo that includes 2 valve actuators and I purchased 2 3-way multiport valves. I need to integrate the IC60 and valve actuators somewhere so i can switch between pool and spa mode. I figured this was a good time to fix some other issues, like the pump not being the minimum 3" from the wall. Unfortunately to maintain a warranty I had to have a "professional" install so this is what the pool store did.



I think 3 feet away from the heater output for the IC60 will also be a challenge unless unless i go up vertically.




Anyways curious to get your opinions on this, should i rotate the pump sideways? should i dig down and cut out the old valves? Ive never done plumbing before but have no immediate rush so I can take my time here. If anyone in north DFW wants to help id happily supply food and beverages.

 

[HermanTX]

Just a couple of thoughts for your consideration as well as some clarifications.

On the suction side - are the 3 pipes - main drain, skimmer(s), and spa drain from left to right?
Can the blower go vertical in front of the pad rather than making that turn to the back of pad then vertical?

The Pentair pump are set up with low clearance fans so they can be close to wall if that is only option. You may want to verify with the specific model pump you have.

If the pool suction is MD and Skimmer, then you would either want a 2 way on each (as shown now) or put a 3 way valve between them to balance suction between the 2. Then put a 3 way valve between the pool side suction and the spa main drain suction.

You could put the pump to the left, then filter in the middle and leave the heater to the right. The blower pipe would need to be moved as well as the booster pump.

On return side, put the 3-way valve between pool and spa return. Remove the 2-way valves on each pipe. Do you have an elevated spa? If so, put a check valve on the spa return.

My SWCG is barely 3 feet from the heater. It not as critical because SWCG only makes chlorine when pump is on and water flowing. It is not like the chlorinator shown that has water soaking the pucks. You can include a check valve after the heater if you wish. Actually, if you install a heater bypass, the check valve is required so that is there.

Suggest that you connect the pool return that is going to the suction side of the booster pump directly to the pipe going to the pool. This creates another “return” to the pool and prevents that pipe from growing algae if it is blocked off.

Provide some feedback and any questions.

 

[rs485]

Thanks for the reply, I was out of town and am just getting back into the swing of things.

Just a couple of thoughts for your consideration as well as some clarifications.

On the suction side - are the 3 pipes - main drain, skimmer(s), and spa drain from left to right?

Yes this is correct

Can the blower go vertical in front of the pad rather than making that turn to the back of pad then vertical?

I think that would work, I honestly never use it it as it is probably overpowered and just blows water all over the deck when i turn it on

The Pentair pump are set up with low clearance fans so they can be close to wall if that is only option. You may want to verify with the specific model pump you have.

Its an Intelliflo VSF the manual recommends 3 inches of clearance in the rear and 2x the suction pipe diameter in the front so 10 inches.

If the pool suction is MD and Skimmer, then you would either want a 2 way on each (as shown now) or put a 3 way valve between them to balance suction between the 2. Then put a 3 way valve between the pool side suction and the spa main drain suction.

Thats right, I was thinking of just leaving / replacing the 2 ways for the MD and Skimmer just so I can adjust the ratio and using a 3 way to switch between pool/spa. or as you mentioned use an additional 3 way but I think space makes that tricky. I likely wouldn't automate that valve.

You could put the pump to the left, then filter in the middle and leave the heater to the right. The blower pipe would need to be moved as well as the booster pump.

The booster pump can go, i have a robotic cleaner now and never use it

On return side, put the 3-way valve between pool and spa return. Remove the 2-way valves on each pipe. Do you have an elevated spa? If so, put a check valve on the spa return.

spa is not elevated but it has a spill over, there is a check valve before the chlorinator now so I bought a new one anyways because im sure its old.

Suggest that you connect the pool return that is going to the suction side of the booster pump directly to the pipe going to the pool. This creates another “return” to the pool and prevents that pipe from growing algae if it is blocked off.

This makes sense to me i could probably connect that with the other pool return line.