Pool heater compressor always running

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drinkwater99

Member
Jul 10, 2024
9
Canada
I have an electric pool heater which works but the compressor never shuts off.

Everything works, that is, I set the desired water temperature, for example 85 degrees, and the pool heater fan and compressor are on and hot water comes into the pool.
When the pool water temperature reaches the set temperature, the fan turns off but not the compressor - it stays on.
Even if I press the Off button on the heater - the compressor keeps running even though the panel shows "Off".
So what happens is that the unit ices up.

The only way I can get it to stop is to turn off the breaker to the unit (obviously).

I checked the contactor relay inside the unit and it's not stuck - when I turn on the breaker the contactor closes and when I turn off the breaker it opens.

Any ideas on what the issue could be ?
 
Welcome to TFP.

What model Heat Pump are we discussing?
 
Sounds like a control board failure.

How old is the HP?

Is it under warranty?
 
Have an HVAC tech take a look at it.

Maybe a pressure sensor is keeping the compressor on.
 
Most often if the compressor keeps running after the heater should shut down it is an indication that the compressor contactor contacts are welded shut and not opening when the power drops to the contactor coil. This can be caused by increased amp draw due to a weakened or open compressor run capacitor along with normal wear/age of the contactor. Both the contactor and the capacitor should be checked and replaced if needed.
 
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swamprat69 said:
Most often if the compressor keeps running after the heater should shut down it is an indication that the compressor contactor contacts are welded shut and not opening when the power drops to the contactor coil. This can be caused by increased amp draw due to a weakened or open compressor run capacitor along with normal wear/age of the contactor. Both the contactor and the capacitor should be checked and replaced if needed.
Click to expand...
Thx for your help

I checked the contactor and it seems ok.
It does push in when I put the breaker on and pushes out when I shut the breaker off.

It stays pushed in even when I press the off button on the control panel even though the panel shows OFF.
It seems as if power is always sent to the contactor for some reason.

I am guessing a control board issue - what do you think?
 

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It would be helpful if you had a multimeter and knew how to use it safely and correctly. What is the brand and model number of your heater so that I could look up the manual and wiring diagram for your heater. If it does stay pulled in when the panel says it should be off (but there is power to the heater), it would indicate that the main control might still be providing voltage to the contactor coil. Shutting off power to the heater will drop out voltage to the line side of the contactor but also drop out low voltage from the secondary side of the transformer and kill the low voltage to the contactor coil.
 
swamprat69 said:
It would be helpful if you had a multimeter and knew how to use it safely and correctly. What is the brand and model number of your heater so that I could look up the manual and wiring diagram for your heater. If it does stay pulled in when the panel says it should be off (but there is power to the heater), it would indicate that the main control might still be providing voltage to the contactor coil. Shutting off power to the heater will drop out voltage to the line side of the contactor but also drop out low voltage from the secondary side of the transformer and kill the low voltage to the contactor coil.
Click to expand...
Here is the model :

www.walmart.ca

EXCELLENCE pool heater heat pump XLR | REVERSIBLE 50 KBTU - Walmart.ca

Buy EXCELLENCE pool heater heat pump XLR | REVERSIBLE 50 KBTU from Walmart Canada. Shop for more Pool Pumps available online at Walmart.ca
www.walmart.ca
 
Although your heater label states 208-240 volts/ single phase (1)/ 50-60 Hz, the note at the bottom states 50HZ! Curious as to what the labels on the compressor, fan motor and transformer state as these are all inductive loads and if labeled for 50HZ some problems could arise. I also see that a defrost sensor is shown in the wiring diagram but no reversing valve is listed? When control states that system is "off" , check to see if you have 24 volts between the orange and white wires to the compressor contactor. Also check to confirm that you do not have 24 volts between red and white wires to the fan relay if the fan shuts off when the control states off. Was this heater purchased through an authorized dealer and who instaled the heater ( an authorized dealer or someone else )? I also note that there is no replacemnt parts list in the manual?
 
swamprat69 said:
Although your heater label states 208-240 volts/ single phase (1)/ 50-60 Hz, the note at the bottom states 50HZ! Curious as to what the labels on the compressor, fan motor and transformer state as these are all inductive loads and if labeled for 50HZ some problems could arise. I also see that a defrost sensor is shown in the wiring diagram but no reversing valve is listed? When control states that system is "off" , check to see if you have 24 volts between the orange and white wires to the compressor contactor. Also check to confirm that you do not have 24 volts between red and white wires to the fan relay if the fan shuts off when the control states off. Was this heater purchased through an authorized dealer and who instaled the heater ( an authorized dealer or someone else )? I also note that there is no replacemnt parts list in the manual?
Click to expand...
Now I am really baffled. I got out my multimeter to do the testing you suggested this morning.
I had disconnected the display panel last night for inspection (control board) .
So I reconnected the control board and at the same time I disconnected the compressor run capacitor to test it and it was ok.
So I reconnected everything and now everything is working ok. The compressor does not always stay on and turns on and off (along with the fan) depending on he desired temp setting and actual temperature. I really don't understand anything anymore...
 
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Strange! It is possible that it has something to do with the wiring and by disconnecting and reconnecting you somehow fixed it. Not exactly sure how the contactor remained pulled in when the heater said it was off without checking for voltage to the contactor coil when this anomaly occured. Just to let you know, it is possible for the contacor contacts to stick closed even though the contactor plunger pulls out because the bridging contacts are free floating on springs on the plunger in the plunger raceway and held in place by the springs when the contactor is pulled in. Still curious as to the Hz listed on the fan motor and compressor labels as this would effect various running parameters of the motors. If possible please list the Hz as noted on the labels. If problem recurs please check whether or not you have 24 volts present at the contactor coil. Also possible that the relay that supplies 24 volts to the contacor coil from the control board was sticking closed and by removing the board you freed up the relay contacts.
 
Also if the problem recurs and you do have 24 volts to the contactor coil, you could try lightly tapping on the control board with the handle end of a screwdriver and if the contactor opens you have isolated the cause of the problem to a sticking contactor relay on the control board.
 
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