Please help me make sense of this.

SteveK52

Bronze Supporter
Mar 11, 2019
285
Taylors South Carolina
Yesterday I replaced my Pentair SWG with a new one and at start up my ScreenLogic indicated a salt level of 2700 which showed as yellow and even though in the yellow the SWG produced Chlorine all day. I added a small amount of salt , approximately 15 lbs. yesterday. This morning Screenlogic is reporting 2550 which is in the red and the SWG is not producing any Chlorine. I tested the water with my Taylors K-1766 kit and got a result of 2200. One thing I noticed was the red and green lights for salt level that normally cycle at start-up for a short period of time took much longer to settle on the red. The one thing I don't know is what the actual salt level was prior to the new install as we were gone during the storm that dumped a ton of rain. All I know is that when we left the indicated salt level was in the green. Wha am I missing?
 
Not sure I understand your confusion. The cell is reporting low salt, you tested low salt.

3600 ppm of salt is recommended for optimum water condition for the IC-40. Low salt concentration below 2600 ppm will cause the unit to turn off. High salt concentration above 4500 ppm may cause excessive corrosion or deterioration to pool equipment and surrounding surfaces in and around the pool. The cell tests the salt level every 12 hours. So it may take 12 hours for the salt level on the cell to change after adding salt.

If the cell is reporting low, and your testing is showing 2200, I'd add enough salt to get to 3600.
 
It takes more then one day for salt to fully dissolve and mix in the pool.

When your cell was doing its startup or every 12 hour test it probably got a slug of high salt water and gave you the 2700 reading. Over time the salt dissolves and distributes better. It takes a few days for the salt reading to settle down to a steady state.
 
Steve,

The water temp also makes a difference in the salt readings... I often see a difference between the morning readings and the reading 12 hours later.

Everyone that has a salt water pool needs the ability to measure the 'Actual' salt level, so they can compare that to the 'Reported" salt level from the cell.. The tolerance of the reported reading from the cell is +/- 600.. I use the Taylor K-1766 salt test kit and a speed-stir...

The cell cell reports low salt at 2800 but will still work down to 2600. Below 2600 the cell will not make chlorine. This is based on what the cell 'Thinks' the salt level is, not what the actual salt level is..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Thanks for your replies.
I would have been on top of this if I had been home during the storm as I would have a better feel for how much water came out of the pool. Also my IC40 decided to quit and stop my filter from running. We leave sometimes in the winter for a week and going forward, from what I have learned about a bad SWG possibly preventing the pump from running, I will physically disconnect it if there is a danger of freezing temperatures.
I am adding salt and confident it will work tomorrow. If it was a slug of high salt water I'm not sure where it would have come from. Thanks again.
 
Steve,

A bad pump will keep the SWCG from working, as there is no water flow.. But, I can't see how a bad SWCG would ever keep your pump from running??? :scratch:

Maybe I just understand the problem..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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