Pentair Intellichlor IC15 low salt light, replaced flow switch

[blustrawberry81]

Hi there. I’ve owned my chlorinator since 2017. I haven’t had any major issues with it until the end of last year. The flow light would turn red even though the flow was fine.
I just opened my pool last week and prior to installing the chlorinator, I replaced the flow switch. I’ve had the water tested etc and my salt level is fine. But after starting up the chlorinator I’m getting a red low salt light. I ran the diagnostic and from what I can gather the temp sensor may be bad. All the lights are flashing after I hit the “more” button again to check the water temperature. When I replaced the flow switch, does it also replace the bad temperature sensor? I couldn’t find any information regarding that specifically. I’m not really sure what else to do. I thought replacing the flow switch would solve my problem. There’s still 60% life left so I’m hoping I don’t have to replace. Could it be a bad flow switch that I used to replace? Please advise.

 

[Jimrahbe]

81,

The flow switch assembly includes a new thermistor..

It is possible that the connections to the new flow switch are bad as the little snap connections are not all that great.

How many wires did your old flow switch have, and how many wires did you new flow switch have?

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[blustrawberry81]

81,

The flow switch assembly includes a new thermistor..

It is possible that the connections to the new flow switch are bad as the little snap connections are not all that great.

How many wires did your old flow switch have, and how many wires did you new flow switch have?

Thanks,

Jim R.

There was four in the old and four in the new.

 

[blustrawberry81]

There was four in the old and four in the new.

What do you recommend? Do you think I should replace the flow switch again?

 

[Jimrahbe]

81,

I 'assume' that the IC15 works the same as the IC40.

If so, you can disconnect the thermistor and the cell will just use an internal resistor.. It will then think the water is about 72 degrees.

This would work for now, but not when the water is cold.. That is really what the thermistor does.. It tells the cell to adjust its salt test based on how cold the water is.

Disconnect the White or Green wire between the cell and the flow switch, and the cell will just use its fixed resistor.

Doing this will at least tell you if the Flow Switch thermistor is bad or not.

Since you are in Ohio, how cold is your water?? Anything less than 60 degrees makes the salt reading suspect..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[blustrawberry81]

81,

I 'assume' that the IC15 works the same as the IC40.

If so, you can disconnect the thermistor and the cell will just use an internal resistor.. It will then think the water is about 72 degrees.

This would work for now, but not when the water is cold.. That is really what the thermistor does.. It tells the cell to adjust its salt test based on how cold the water is.

Disconnect the White or Green wire between the cell and the flow switch, and the cell will just use its fixed resistor.

Doing this will at least tell you if the Flow Switch thermistor is bad or not.

Since you are in Ohio, how cold is your water?? Anything less than 60 degrees makes the salt reading suspect..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Temperature reads about 66 degrees. If the water temperature was an issue wouldn’t the chlorinator just read “cold water”?

 

[Jimrahbe]

81,

No.. When the cold water light comes on, the whole cell turns off.. other than just the cold water light. This happens when the water temp is about 52 degrees.

How do you test the salinity of your pool water??? Going to the pool store is pretty hit or miss.. Take the same sample to two different stores and see what you get..

When you have a SWCG, you need the ability to test your own pool water so that you can compare the Actual salt level vs. the salt level Reported by the cell.. The cell's number is +/- 500 ppm...

What I try to do is keep the cell happy, as long as the actual salt level stays below about 3500 or so. If I can add a bag or two of salt and make the cell happy and work, I'll do that as long as I don't push the actual salt level about about 3500 or so.

The Cell reports low salt at 2800, but still works until it gets down the 2600 when it shuts off making chlorine.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[blustrawberry81]

81,

No.. When the cold water light comes on, the whole cell turns off.. other than just the cold water light. This happens when the water temp is about 52 degrees.

How do you test the salinity of your pool water??? Going to the pool store is pretty hit or miss.. Take the same sample to two different stores and see what you get..

When you have a SWCG, you need the ability to test your own pool water so that you can compare the Actual salt level vs. the salt level Reported by the cell.. The cell's number is +/- 500 ppm...

What I try to do is keep the cell happy, as long as the actual salt level stays below about 3500 or so. If I can add a bag or two of salt and make the cell happy and work, I'll do that as long as I don't push the actual salt level about about 3500 or so.

The Cell reports low salt at 2800, but still works until it gets down the 2600 when it shuts off making chlorine.

Thanks,

Jim R.

The pool store said my salt was at 2100 ppm. So I added just less than two bags of salt per there instructions and let the pumps run for 24 hours before first turning the chlorinator on. Maybe I should try cleaning it?

 

[blustrawberry81]

The pool store said my salt was at 2100 ppm. So I added just less than two bags of salt per there instructions and let the pumps run for 24 hours before first turning the chlorinator on. Maybe I should try cleaning it?

Well in one final effort before taking it apart to clean, I plugged it in and after a few minutes the cell turned green!?!? No low salt light. So with the two red lights on the diagnostic this morning, should I be concerned it’s not actually working now? If everything was ok, those red lights wouldn’t light up during the diagnostic correct? Or just assume it’s working now?

 

[Jimrahbe]

81,

I don't understand...

If the pool store said your salt level was 2100, why would you expect the salt light to be green???

The cell needs at least 2800 to have a green salt light, and it really needs to be 3200 or so..

Keep in mind that the colder the water the less reliable the salt reading will be.

This is often why the salt test in the morning is low and then good in the afternoon.

The system will test the salt when initially powered up for the day, and then every 12 hours.

When it does this, the red and green salt light will flash like a railroad crossing for about 5 minutes.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[blustrawberry81]

81,

I don't understand...

If the pool store said your salt level was 2100, why would you expect the salt light to be green???

The cell needs at least 2800 to have a green salt light, and it really needs to be 3200 or so..

Keep in mind that the colder the water the less reliable the salt reading will be.

This is often why the salt test in the morning is low and then good in the afternoon.

The system will test the salt when initially powered up for the day, and then every 12 hours.

When it does this, the red and green salt light will flash like a railroad crossing for about 5 minutes.

Thanks,

Jim R.

I didn’t turn the chlorinator on until 24 hours after being tested and adding the salt to the pool.