Pentair iChlor30 Issues

[pczurak]

I am having issues with my Chlorinator, looking at the lights and no temperature reading it looks like the Flow Switch is bad, but I replaced the Flow Switch with the factory part and it did not change anything.
The Chlorinator still works although I have to set it at around 85% which is about 30% higher than what's set normally. I cleaned the chlorinator and it did not help either.
Has anyone seen this before?
Does this mean I have to replace the Chlorinator? It has only about 3500 hours.

Here are links to videos for the lights and codes.

Error Lights

Error Codes and Info

 

[ajw22]

Does your pool pass the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test?

It sounds like you have algae consuming some of your chlorine in which case you need to follow the SLAM Process

 

[pczurak]

But why would that cause the Flow Senser not to display the temperature and the lights to blink like the Flow Sensor is bad?
The result from Taylor K-2005 is 9.

 

[ajw22]

You said…

The Chlorinator still works although I have to set it at around 85% which is about 30% higher than what's set normally.

…that is a sign of an algae problem.

 

[pczurak]

I will do the SLAM, but that does not explain the lights or no temperature on the sensor.
I called the manufacturer and all they could tell me was "call a professional" to check out the chlorinator.
I hate to call a professional and get charged $200 just so they can tell me the Chlorinator is bad.

 

[mknauss]

The only thing servicable in an iChlor is the flow switch.
I would use the cell until it no longer shows it is generating chlorine.
When it needs to be replaced, use an Intellichlor SWCG. They use the same power unit.