I just replaced my Easytouch main control board part# 520712 as the old one was not working due to a power surge (I think). Now I cannot get any connection between my main Easytouch control board and my remote. My remote fcc id is a P4HEASYTOUCH. When I sync the main board to the remote the main board says 'sending' and the remote says 'searching' and they'll stay that way as they don't see each other. I've tested the DC power and data voltage going into the transceiver and they are good and in range. The transceiver is part number: 520113. The power LED on the transceiver board is Red. The RF Link LED which I think indicates communication between the remote and the transceiver is flashing Red which doesn't make sense as they are not connected. The 485 link LED shows nothing. From what I've researched the 485 Link LED if it was Red would indicate a data connecting between the main control board and the transceiver. As I've just replaced the main control board and the DC voltage for power and data coming into the transceiver are good does this mean the transceiver is bad? I guess the same thing that damaged the main control board could also have damaged the transceiver although I cannot see any physical damage on either board. I called Pentair support and unfortunately I get different information depending upon who I speak with. For example one person told me it was AC between the black and red wires when I know it's DC. Another person told me to disconnect the wires to the transceiver (black,green,yellow,red) and then on the main control board try and make the wireless connection. When it says sending then plug the wires back in to the transceiver and that sometimes gets the 485 Link to light up. It didn't work. Sorry for the lengthy post but I've tried to put all the info here so it's clear.
Pentair Easytouch remote transceiver problem - Part 520113
- Thread starter FLJones
- Start date
- Nov 12, 2017
- 12,635
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Couple of thoughts:
- The surge that blew up your outdoor board could surely have blown the transceiver as well.
- You'll see the 485 led illuminate every second or so when the outdoor board sends a command (you could see the data if you connected an rs485-usb dongle)
- I've only seen the RF led illuminate when the transceiver detects a command from the remote.
I'd try to verify whether the comms are actually working on your new board... they likely are since you replaced it, but is anything else connected to the comm port? i.e. do you happen to have an indoor panel, intelliflo pump, is10 spa remote, screenlogic, etc?
Also, are you able to test the transceiver card's current draw? it shouldn't be much more than 70mA
- The surge that blew up your outdoor board could surely have blown the transceiver as well.
- You'll see the 485 led illuminate every second or so when the outdoor board sends a command (you could see the data if you connected an rs485-usb dongle)
- I've only seen the RF led illuminate when the transceiver detects a command from the remote.
I'd try to verify whether the comms are actually working on your new board... they likely are since you replaced it, but is anything else connected to the comm port? i.e. do you happen to have an indoor panel, intelliflo pump, is10 spa remote, screenlogic, etc?
Also, are you able to test the transceiver card's current draw? it shouldn't be much more than 70mA
The 485 led does not light at all. The fact the the RF led is blinking is strange because there is no connection between the remote and the tranceiver and this makes me think something is very messed up with the transceiver. Screenlogic is not involved and there is nothing else connected to the comm port.
Can you tell me how to test the cards current draw and I'll check that. Thanks all for taking the time to look at this and respond.
Can you tell me how to test the cards current draw and I'll check that. Thanks all for taking the time to look at this and respond.
Hey you're welcome!
It does sound like the card is messed up... the current check will give us an idea of whether the problem is the comm chip. If the comm chip is dead, replacing it will usually fix the card. If the radio chipset or microcontroller is dead, the card is toast (the firmware isn't available and I've never found a source for replacement radio chips).
To measure current, you're basically going to replace the red wire (positive supply) that goes to the transceiver card with your multi-meter's leads (i.e. one lead goes to the card and the other goes to the power supply). The meter completes the circuit and the current runs "through" the meter to the card. If you connect the leads backwards nothing bad will happen - it'll just show a negative current.
This is a pretty good video that talks about how to do measure current - and the difference between measuring current and voltage.
You don't need the data lines connected to measure the current. In fact, if you've got some jumper wires and a 12 volt dc power supply it's safer to use that and not even have it connected to the outdoor panel. I connect my used cards to a lab power supply that shows me the current draw as soon as I turn it on - they're not connected to a pool controller at all. Normal is around 60-70mA... when the comm chip is blown it'll be anywhere from 80mA to the current limit on my supply (500mA), depending on how it died.
It does sound like the card is messed up... the current check will give us an idea of whether the problem is the comm chip. If the comm chip is dead, replacing it will usually fix the card. If the radio chipset or microcontroller is dead, the card is toast (the firmware isn't available and I've never found a source for replacement radio chips).
To measure current, you're basically going to replace the red wire (positive supply) that goes to the transceiver card with your multi-meter's leads (i.e. one lead goes to the card and the other goes to the power supply). The meter completes the circuit and the current runs "through" the meter to the card. If you connect the leads backwards nothing bad will happen - it'll just show a negative current.
This is a pretty good video that talks about how to do measure current - and the difference between measuring current and voltage.
You don't need the data lines connected to measure the current. In fact, if you've got some jumper wires and a 12 volt dc power supply it's safer to use that and not even have it connected to the outdoor panel. I connect my used cards to a lab power supply that shows me the current draw as soon as I turn it on - they're not connected to a pool controller at all. Normal is around 60-70mA... when the comm chip is blown it'll be anywhere from 80mA to the current limit on my supply (500mA), depending on how it died.
- Nov 12, 2017
- 12,635
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Tom's great. He knows so much about this stuff. Here's the two of us working in his lab on my pool gear. You can see the power supply he was referring to off to the side there (with the meter).
He's the smart-looking one, I'm the handsome one.
He's the smart-looking one, I'm the handsome one.
haha, thanks Dirk!! it looks like "we're" about to blow some sh*% up in that pic
- Nov 12, 2017
- 12,635
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
i zoomed in on the photo and can see that we're about to cut the jumper on the PSL keypad to make it an ET-8! 
Thanks for the details. On the Multimeter DC 10A setting I got 0.14 amps. On the Multimeter 200mA setting got 165 to 180mA. The longer I left it connected the higher it read. i.e. it started at 165 and just kept going up. If I did this correctly my readings tell me that the comm chip is blown.
You mentioned replacing the comm chip is an option. Do you know where I could get one? I have not worked on boards but I could get a small soldering iron and most likely replace it?
- Nov 12, 2017
- 12,635
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The trick to desoldering something with multiple contacts is getting all the contacts free at the same time, which means you have to not only heat the solder, but remove it, too, one contact at a time, before you attempt to pull the chip off. Tom must have a tip for this, but this is the only way I know to do it. When you order your soldering iron, get something like this, too:
This kit comes with solder wick, too, which I've never tried. Might be good to have both solutions. At the bottom of that Amazon page is a mini-tutorial, which describes how these are used.
Soldering irons come in different "strengths" (temperatures). When working on delicate, heat-sensitive components and circuit boards, you want one of lesser wattage.
When soldering on the new chip, do each contact as fast as you can, so as not to overheat the chip or the board. Let it cool off a bit between each soldering. Practice a bunch before you do the chip.
And those are my soldering tips (get it?) for the day!
This kit comes with solder wick, too, which I've never tried. Might be good to have both solutions. At the bottom of that Amazon page is a mini-tutorial, which describes how these are used.
Soldering irons come in different "strengths" (temperatures). When working on delicate, heat-sensitive components and circuit boards, you want one of lesser wattage.
When soldering on the new chip, do each contact as fast as you can, so as not to overheat the chip or the board. Let it cool off a bit between each soldering. Practice a bunch before you do the chip.
And those are my soldering tips (get it?) for the day!
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Hey FLJones, nice work with the current test! Those readings are definitely too high for a functioning card... there could still be other damage but it's most likely the comm chip. The chip itself is an 8-pin rs485 part, to the right of the 4-pin comm terminal... give it a quick inspection with a magnifier - sometimes they look fine and sometimes they've got cracks or burn holes/bubbles. It's either going to be a MAX1483ESA+ or an ISL81483IBZ, and you can get replacements at mouser, digikey etc. Ymmv, but I don't buy them on ama-z or fleabay.
All of Dirks tips are good ones... low wattage (30 or less) is better, and you'll want a fine soldering tip. You wont need the solder sucker but you'll need the wick. Also, soldering flux (electronics flux, not plumbing flux!) is your friend... it helps melt and move the solder, so use it liberally. If you've got some old fine leaded solder, that helps melt the newer lead-free stuff.
I replace a LOT of these chips (and other surface mount stuff) so I got myself a hot air desoldering station... but I did my first one with a 30 year old 25 watt Weller iron. You can also buy special "chip-quik" de-soldering solder, or you could "very carefully" cut the 8 pins with a razor and unsolder the pin remnants 1 at a time (don't use a dremel because any vibration will likely break the pad/traces!). You can even puddle a ton of solder on all of the pins if you're fast... there's a bunch of ways to remove chips.
But, with a low-wattage iron I'd suggest using a pin or a needle to pry up each pin, 1 at a time, as you melt the solder. Be careful not to torque the chip when you get to the last 1 or 2 pins because again, you could break the pad/traces. Apply lots of flux, you can clean it up with 1-tips and 90+ isopropyl. Once you get the chip off, use some soldering wick and flux to clean off the pads before fitting the replacement.
If you don't feel like doing any of it, shoot me a pm... i offer the service
All of Dirks tips are good ones... low wattage (30 or less) is better, and you'll want a fine soldering tip. You wont need the solder sucker but you'll need the wick. Also, soldering flux (electronics flux, not plumbing flux!) is your friend... it helps melt and move the solder, so use it liberally. If you've got some old fine leaded solder, that helps melt the newer lead-free stuff.
I replace a LOT of these chips (and other surface mount stuff) so I got myself a hot air desoldering station... but I did my first one with a 30 year old 25 watt Weller iron. You can also buy special "chip-quik" de-soldering solder, or you could "very carefully" cut the 8 pins with a razor and unsolder the pin remnants 1 at a time (don't use a dremel because any vibration will likely break the pad/traces!). You can even puddle a ton of solder on all of the pins if you're fast... there's a bunch of ways to remove chips.
But, with a low-wattage iron I'd suggest using a pin or a needle to pry up each pin, 1 at a time, as you melt the solder. Be careful not to torque the chip when you get to the last 1 or 2 pins because again, you could break the pad/traces. Apply lots of flux, you can clean it up with 1-tips and 90+ isopropyl. Once you get the chip off, use some soldering wick and flux to clean off the pads before fitting the replacement.
If you don't feel like doing any of it, shoot me a pm... i offer the service
- Nov 12, 2017
- 12,635
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Thanks again for your help. I bought a replacement used board on eBay for $150 and it works fine. I've kept the old one and maybe I'll try putting a new comm chip on it using the soldering advice. For now though I'm content after having spent a lot of time figuring out the main control board and then replacing it and configuring it, then figuring out the transceiver board was toast and replacing that to. Now I need to figure out a surge protector that I can add to the Easytouch AC Panel to protect these boards from being destroyed by brown outs. Can anyone recommend one?
Just saw this after I posted that I'd replaced the transceiver board. I would be interested if you could repair the board, maybe the main control board too is worth looking at? I'll look to see how to send you a PM on this site. Right now though I'm back off to the pool shed with a shop vac and trash can so I can spend my Sunday afternoon giving it a good clean out. I really do appreciate being able to ask questions like this and get really good knowledgeable answers.Hey FLJones, nice work with the current test! Those readings are definitely too high for a functioning card... there could still be other damage but it's most likely the comm chip. The chip itself is an 8-pin rs485 part, to the right of the 4-pin comm terminal... give it a quick inspection with a magnifier - sometimes they look fine and sometimes they've got cracks or burn holes/bubbles. It's either going to be a MAX1483ESA+ or an ISL81483IBZ, and you can get replacements at mouser, digikey etc. Ymmv, but I don't buy them on ama-z or fleabay.
All of Dirks tips are good ones... low wattage (30 or less) is better, and you'll want a fine soldering tip. You wont need the solder sucker but you'll need the wick. Also, soldering flux (electronics flux, not plumbing flux!) is your friend... it helps melt and move the solder, so use it liberally. If you've got some old fine leaded solder, that helps melt the newer lead-free stuff.
I replace a LOT of these chips (and other surface mount stuff) so I got myself a hot air desoldering station... but I did my first one with a 30 year old 25 watt Weller iron. You can also buy special "chip-quik" de-soldering solder, or you could "very carefully" cut the 8 pins with a razor and unsolder the pin remnants 1 at a time (don't use a dremel because any vibration will likely break the pad/traces!). You can even puddle a ton of solder on all of the pins if you're fast... there's a bunch of ways to remove chips.
But, with a low-wattage iron I'd suggest using a pin or a needle to pry up each pin, 1 at a time, as you melt the solder. Be careful not to torque the chip when you get to the last 1 or 2 pins because again, you could break the pad/traces. Apply lots of flux, you can clean it up with 1-tips and 90+ isopropyl. Once you get the chip off, use some soldering wick and flux to clean off the pads before fitting the replacement.
If you don't feel like doing any of it, shoot me a pm... i offer the service
Hey Glad you got it going!
For your surge issue, there are some posts here about various protections folks have installed. I think a surge unit for the electrical supply is useful but if you're in a lightning prone area you might want to protect the rs485 line as well (these comm cables and any ethernet cable seems to attract lightning)
Surge Protection
Oh and if the new transceiver card works I would bet the main board is just fine... or was there some other issue with it?
to send a "pm", if you click on the link for a user in the thread, it should pop up a small window with a "start conversation" button. you'll also see an envelope icon in the top right header on the tfp site that leads you to all of your conversations/pms.
For your surge issue, there are some posts here about various protections folks have installed. I think a surge unit for the electrical supply is useful but if you're in a lightning prone area you might want to protect the rs485 line as well (these comm cables and any ethernet cable seems to attract lightning)
Surge Protection
Oh and if the new transceiver card works I would bet the main board is just fine... or was there some other issue with it?
to send a "pm", if you click on the link for a user in the thread, it should pop up a small window with a "start conversation" button. you'll also see an envelope icon in the top right header on the tfp site that leads you to all of your conversations/pms.