Overall Recommendations For Indoor Endless Pool Equipment and Maintenance

Hi Everybody,

I'm brand new to TFP and to pool ownership, so please forgive me if I mentioned any of this up. I'm purchasing an original Endless Pool, 3000 gallons (custom deeper section), vinyl liner. I plan to keep the pool on the warmer side of the spectrum for pools, but not quite hot tub temp...probably around 86-88 unless the electric bills but are bankrupting me. I'm working on a small addition to my house where we will install the pool, so it will be fully indoors once it's set up. We will also use the vinyl roller style cover and keep it covered whenever it's not in use, so it won't really get any sunlight (and the windows in the room will have a UV blocker anyway).

We currently have an outdoor hot tub that we sanitize with bromine (which will also be moved to the same addition one it's built), but other than that I have zero pool experience, so I've been reading all over the internet and this website in particular trying to decide what additional equipment I want to buy and how I want to maintain the pool once it's set up (thank you too all of the mods and contributors - I still need some guidance but would be totally lost without the wealth of info in the TFP forums).

Based on everything I've read on here so far, my understanding is that the recommendations for my pool would probably be something along the following lines:

Use the TFPC method for sanitization with a CYA level around 20-30ppm. Don't use the Nature 2 cartridge that comes with the pool. No other equipment or chemicals should be necessary if I keep up with it well, although a UV sanitizer might be beneficial to help destroy CC's since there's no sunlight.

Please let me know if any of that sounds wrong or if I'm missing anything huge. Assuming the foregoing is generally correct, I have a few specific follow up questions:

1) Bromine vs Chlorine: I've read in several places on here that there may be a good case for using Bromine instead of Chlorine in a small indoor pool, especially one with higher temps, but I want able to find anything where it was saying that was the better choice, just more of a viable option. Since I'm already familiar with Bromine care (I've basically been unknowingly using the 3 step method described here How do I use Bromine in my spa (or pool)? for the last three years and it's been working well), I already have plenty of those chemicals, the hot tub with the bromine will be in the same room and I like the benefit of being able to drop in a couple extra tabs into my floater and go away for a long weekend without to much worry, I'm just wondering if anybody on here thinks it might be a better (or just as good) choice than Chlorine for this endless pool? SWG is not an option per manufacturer recommendations. If Chlorine and TFPC is still preferred over bromine I'm happy to give it a shot (and I understand that it would be much easier to switch to Bromine later if I don't like the chlorine than it would be to go in the other direction), but I was just wondering if anybody on here would say that they'd recommend bromine in my situation.

2) UV Sanitizer - my preference is to not ever waste money on extra equipment or time doing extra maintenance (shocking, I know), and I understand that a lot of folks on here might say that I don't need a UV sanitizer (and I won't bother asking about nature 2 because the recommendations for that are very clear so it will just go in the trash), but since I'm building this new I'd prefer to just buy and incorporate it now if there's a good chance that it will be beneficial. My kids will be using the pool and it will be attached to my house so I want to keep CC's down as low as possible because of health, smell and corrosion. I understand the limitations and that it would only be secondary - my main motivation for considering it is helping with CC reduction. Please let me know your recommendations as to whether or not I should include the UV Sanitizer for my setup.

3) CYA - I've read tons of good info and advice on here about CYA use, including why it's still important for an indoor pool that is not exposed to UV. That being said, it's a complicated topic (for me at least) and I want to make sure I fully understand it. My understanding is that it's recommended indoors mainly because it allows you to maintain a higher chlorine reserve without an increased active chlorine level, which is important because if there's a high bather load, algae or something else unexpected in the pool it could use up all of the available chlorine quickly and the pool could become unsanitary. I realize that's probably not spot on, but please let me know if I'm screwing up the general gist of it. Assuming that's close, I'm wondering two things:

A) If I'm using the 20-30ppm of CYA and have the corresponding appropriate levels of active chlorine and inactive chlorine in reserve, if the same thing happens (high bather load or introduction of some other organic in the pool that uses up the active chlorine quickly), is there something automatic that happens (maybe just caused by the presence of the new others matter requiring disinfection?) that causes conversion of the inactive chlorine into active chlorine that can keep the pool safe? Or would it still require me to test, become aware of the issue and add shock or do something to convert the inactive chlorine?

B) If my indoor pool (which will be covered all the time other than an hour a day) will be used only by me most of the time and occasionally by my two very young kids who will be freshly showered and without sunblock, lotion, etc. (ie, generally very consistent and low bather load), and I'm very careful to test before and after any time anybody else is in there (and all the time in the beginning until I get very comfortable) to make sure I always have enough chlorine, under those circumstances do you still think using CYA is important/necessary?

3) Circulation Pump: Endless Pools recommends a small 1/16hp Laing E14 circulation pump, which is low flow designed to run 24 hrs a day, probably originally intended for a large hot tub. Are there any recommendations about using that vs switching to a variable speed higher flow pump that would run off a timer for maybe 12 hrs a day (or whatever is needed, presumably less than 24hrs). I'm inclined to just use what they recommend but just wanted to ask for opinions.

4) Heater: I have the option to use a 5.5kw heater or a 4kw heater. The 4kw would of course draw less power but would probably run for longer to keep up with heat demands. The 4kw would be a little less to install and is more readily available with the configurations I want from the same vendor which would be my preference for various reasons including convenience (can't get the 5.5kw that it's want through endless). I've looked up tons of pool heater sizing calculators but haven't really found a great one for a pool this small specifying an electric heater and indoor conditions (I'll insulate the sides of the pool and the slab below, keep the uninsulated cover on whenever it's not in use, probably keep the room around 70 deg. year round), etc., so I'm not sure they're very accurate for my application. The heater manufacturers and endless pools both think either would be fine since the pool will be indoor, but I do plan to use it year round and add mentioned above, keep it on the higher end of the temp range for pools, so I'm a little nervous going with the 4kw even though up front costs would be less and it would otherwise be preferable to the 5kw. All else being the same, I'd guess that ongoing energy costs would probably be similar with either (4kw draws less for longer and 5kw draws more for shorter period). Does anybody have any thoughts on whether they think I'd be okay with the 4kw or about which might have lower energy costs going forward?

5) I'd welcome any other advice or recommendations about equipment, maintenance, endless pool options, indoor pool installations/enclosures and anything else constructive that would like to be shared.

Thank you all in advance for your recommendations and feedback!

Dave

PS - once I figure out my exact pool specs and equipment (hopefully with some help from this forum), I'll add it all to my signature. Thanks again.
 
Welcome Swimmy! Your username made me laugh. It reminds me of the controversial Boaty McBoatface in GB. I still wish they had gone with that name. Who could resist smiling when Boaty McBoatface pulls into a harbor??

My pool is essentially in my living room. When I took possession of the home, it was an indoor swamp. I slammed with with TFP guidance, and only realized it was a bromine pool about halfway through the process when I found their stash of tabs. I can't say that I gave bromine much consideration. I had already become comfortable with my TF-100. The bucket I found next to the green pool cost them $140. The pool room has powerful ventilation... So I stayed with chlorine and I've been happy with my decision.

I don't have a UV sanitizer, nor do I have plans to get one. I bump the FC to the upper levels of the target range before adding a bather load, I ventilate the room during swimming and monitor levels afterward. I don't have an issue with odor at all. When I DO smell CC's, I usually know why and I can remedy it quickly.

The lack of sun to burn CC hasn't been an issue for me at all. The cover has been. I've learned that days of being covered, esp with when warm and after bathing load means that I need to pull back a portion of the cover for a while. Your plan of an hour a day will likely mitigate that issue.

I follow the 20-30 ppm CYA recommendation. I haven't swam in my pool without CYA, so I don't have a basis for comparison, but I get frequent compliments about the clarity and feel of my water. 5-6 bathers in my pool can deliver a pretty swift kick to FC levels even as I have them. If I followed the old industry recommendation of 1-3, I can't see how FC wouldn't bottom-out every time the pool is used?!

I switched to a VS pump a few months ago, and it's been awesome. I'm still playing with runtimes and settings to find the ideal combination of energy savings, circulation, heating efficiency and skimming. My most recent discovery came from staring into the skimmer basket with the pump at 2,200 rpm. Debris, oil, and dust particles were flowing into the skimmer, but weren't getting sucked down. I added just 15 minutes of 3,000 RPM runtime at the end the pump cycle to solve the issue. I really appreciate that flexibility. (and so does my power bill)

My parents had a gas heater for their spa. At 3,000 gallons, wouldn't that be in the running for your pool? My next big expenditure will be to make my pool heat faster.
 
Rollercostr,

Thank you very much for the long and detailed response! I hadn't heard of Boaty but looked it up and got a good laugh - thanks!

I'm glad to hear that you haven't needed the UV system. The hour a day with the cover off for me is just really my expected use time. I was thinking that to get rid of CC's I'd probably need to peel the cover back sometimes even when not in use, which I'm hoping to avoid having to do mainly because I'm super paranoid about humidity and mold, rot, corrosion, etc. and would like to keep it covered as much as possible. If I had to let it breathe​ sometimes it wouldn't be the end of the world, but if a UV sanitizer might help reduce or eliminate the need to do so it would probably be a worthwhile trade-off for me.

Also glad to hear about your experience​ with CYA and the variable speed pump. I've heard nothing but great things about vs pumps. My main hesitation is that my pool is so small (and the max gpm for rate on most of the other equipment is pretty low) that I'm not sure if I'd ever really get the benefit of being able to vary the speeds much, although maybe I could turn it up a little higher and run it for a little less time, but not sure how much energy that would save or if it would be as good for the water chemistry, etc.

Yes, I've considered gas heat, would be very nice to be able to heat it faster. When I looked into it even the gas heaters still can't heat more than a couple degrees an hour and my understanding is generally that it's more efficient to pretty much maintain my target temp (esp indoors with a cover on) than to let it drop and reheat when I'm going to use it (maybe unless I won't be using it for a week or longer). If it's just maintaining it just needs to make up for what is hopefully fairly minimum heat loss when not in use (intermittent heating when the temp drops) vs running constantly for hours and hours to reheat to desired temp after allowing a drop.

If that's true it negates the biggest advantage (in my opinion) of using gas, which from what I understand will probably be generally more expensive to use than gas. Natural gas isn't an option for me, but a propane hookup is already stubbed out right where the heater will be and I'm building the enclosure new so I could certainly do propane heat as an option. Everything I've read seems to indicate that in most cases with this type of setup using electric heat should be more economical. Any thoughts on that topic?

Thanks again!

Dave
 
I stepped back. I'm a very "involved" indoor pool owner, but I'm still on the near side of my 1-year anniversary. TFP has an expert with an indoor pool, so I was hoping he'd make an appearance.

Another item that slowed me in my tracks was the smell of CC near my pool almost immediately after I had bragged that it's not a problem for me! The issue has since been solved, but it was humbling.
 
I stepped back. I'm a very "involved" indoor pool owner, but I'm still on the near side of my 1-year anniversary. TFP has an expert with an indoor pool, so I was hoping he'd make an appearance.

Another item that slowed me in my tracks was the smell of CC near my pool almost immediately after I had bragged that it's not a problem for me! The issue has since been solved, but it was humbling.

Thanks Rollercoastr - appreciate the feedback! I was also hoping to hear from other indoor pool owners (and an expert would be great). My biggest question is really the sanitizer...Endless Pools recommends no CYA and just using liquid chlorine and UV (or Nature 2). Personally, I have experience with and am comfortable with using bromine, which I've used on my spa for the last couple of years and have been happy with. One of my biggest concerns with using chlorine is the daily maintenance - I don't really want to have to test and add chemicals every single day or two. I may end up only using my pool a couple times a week and I don't want to have to worry about it if we go on vacation for a week or two. From everything I've read Bromine should be an easy sanitizer to use for a small indoor pool, just like it is with a spa. There are obviously pros and cons to both systems, but in general I think Bromine is probably easier. If I decide to go with Bromine I may add an ozonator rather than UV - based on what I've read Ozonators play nicer with Bromine and UV plays nicer with chlorine. They can be switched but they both seem to fight each other (UV depletes Bromine and Ozone depletes Chlorine). My biggest hesitation of going with Bromine for the Endless Pool is that it would be very difficult to go the other direction. Apparently you cannot drain the pool completely and need to leave about 1/4 of the water in the bottom when doing a water change or else pay $1,500 and install a new liner because the liner will be ruined if you drain all of the water out. If that's the case I may never be able to switch to chlorine if I start with Bromine and it doesn't work out...I have considered going with UV and trying Bromine and if i want to switch trying to use the UV light to get rid of all of the Bromine, but I'm not sure if the UV actually depletes the Bromide bank or if it just gets rid of the actual Bromine (presumably turning it back into Bromide). If there's nothing that actually gets rid of the Bromide then I don't know how I'd ever switch back to chlorine once I go Bromine without getting a new liner (and reinstalling it which may be worse than the huge cost itself).

If anybody else has any insight on these issues I'd love to hear from you. Thanks in advance.
 
Now that I have that last speedbump behind me I want to brag again: On Thursday night my pool tested FC 3.5 and pH 7.5. I left for the wkd and tested last night: FC 2.5 and pH 7.6. I literally can't walk past the pool without stopping to admire the water. Obviously I didn't really need to test, but I'm a beta tester of the Pool Math App and I feel obligated to actively use it.

I'm not surprised that a mfr doesn't recommend CYA in an indoor pool. The pool industry as a whole is incredibly segmented. The mfr of my plaster doesn't provide start-up instructions of their own - their website actually states that they're posting guidelines from customer feedback! Pool stores don't acknowledge the interaction between chlorine and CYA. I had a pool builder look at the green swamp and say, "just toss a gallon of bleach in there and it'll clear up". In hindsight, I guess I'm glad that he didn't send me and my wallet to the pool store for some potions.

My background with bromine isn't so successful. It began with my Dad's spa in the late 80's. Clearly, we didn't understand many subtleties. The water rarely looked good. I wasn't involved again in pool care again until I bought this house a year ago. The PO's couldn't manage to keep it clear with bromine, yet they spent a lot of money in their attempts.

I'll admit that I didn't give bromine a chance. Reasons for that include the drastically smaller support community for bromine, and the cost.

Has anyone seen Isaac lately?
 
Now that I have that last speedbump behind me I want to brag again: On Thursday night my pool tested FC 3.5 and pH 7.5. I left for the wkd and tested last night: FC 2.5 and pH 7.6. I literally can't walk past the pool without stopping to admire the water. Obviously I didn't really need to test, but I'm a beta tester of the Pool Math App and I feel obligated to actively use it.

I'm not surprised that a mfr doesn't recommend CYA in an indoor pool. The pool industry as a whole is incredibly segmented. The mfr of my plaster doesn't provide start-up instructions of their own - their website actually states that they're posting guidelines from customer feedback! Pool stores don't acknowledge the interaction between chlorine and CYA. I had a pool builder look at the green swamp and say, "just toss a gallon of bleach in there and it'll clear up". In hindsight, I guess I'm glad that he didn't send me and my wallet to the pool store for some potions.

My background with bromine isn't so successful. It began with my Dad's spa in the late 80's. Clearly, we didn't understand many subtleties. The water rarely looked good. I wasn't involved again in pool care again until I bought this house a year ago. The PO's couldn't manage to keep it clear with bromine, yet they spent a lot of money in their attempts.

I'll admit that I didn't give bromine a chance. Reasons for that include the drastically smaller support community for bromine, and the cost.

Has anyone seen Isaac lately?

Thank you again for sharing Rollercoastr, much appreciated! And congrats on your beautiful water! Hoping to hear from Isaac or anybody else with advice so that mine can hopefully look like yours does!

Dave
 

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