Is anyone familiar with this? We want to test and maintain ourselves but the start-up guy from Orenda didn't teach us anything. Can we buy supplies at anyplace to add to the pool or only Orenda products? We got the LSI app. that's like Pool Math.
Orenda Start Up, Now what? till Salt?
- Thread starter Unicorn19
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 64,776
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Orenda Pool Startup: 5-Day Guide | Procedures | Orenda Technologies
Orenda Pool Startup: 5-Day Guide | Procedures | Orenda Technologies
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www.orendatech.com
How many days since your pool was filled?
After day 30 you can transition to TFPC Methods.
You have a test kit to test your water? Start testing it and log it in PoolMath
Palpatine
Bronze Supporter
How did this Orenda startup work for you? I'm in the process of a replaster and was considering using this Orenda Startup but have heard mixed reviews on it.
Oh my goodness, thanks for the laugh. I looked up the MSDS for their clarifier. It was 4% 'trade secret' and 96% 'compounds that were non-harmful'. How is that even legal ? Why even bother posting it ? Anywho, if you want to be the guinea pig, your feedback will be appreciated.
Pool Plaster Start-up Alternative
Orenda Technologies has recently unveiled a new start-up program that is somewhat similar to the onBalance Bicarb start-up process. Instead of adding sodium bicarbonate, Orenda adds calcium (calcium chloride) to low calcium tap water while filling brand-new plaster pools, which also like the...
www.troublefreepool.com
- Jul 21, 2013
- 64,776
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
@onBalance has written about the importance of keeping the CSI positive during the first 30 days. see...
The CSI is Reliable for Plaster-based Pools
Using the Calcium Saturation Index (also known as the LSI in the pool industry) as a guide for maintaining proper pool water balance and to protect pool plaster, including quartz and pebble finishes, has become a mainstay in our industry for good reason. Several experiments have been conducted...
www.troublefreepool.com
The CSI is not applicable to new plaster finishes under 30 days old. It is actually necessary, to achieve a smooth and dense surface, to have about a +0.5 CSI during the first 30 days. This is because the plaster (cement paste) surface contains about 20% calcium hydroxide, which is somewhat soluble in balanced and slightly positive CSI water and can be dissolved away. The plaster surface needs to be "carbonated" before the CSI should be lowered to the acceptable and balanced range. And that generally is achieved during the first month under balanced water.
You can achieve this yourself with proper water chemistry management during that time. The Orenda kit just takes your money and does it for you.
Palpatine
Bronze Supporter
Thanks @ajw22 I'll read that link you posted.
I'm new to all this pool ownership stuff... even newer to the startup process. I've contacted several "pool guys" in my area and they all have differing methods and opinions.
When Googling and watching videos on Youtube I found out about the Orenda method and it looked interesting as, at first blush, it seemed to make a lot of sense about the aggressive water sucking the calcium out of the plaster. My tap water, which I'll be filling my pool with immediately after replastering, tests at a 60... for a 30k gallon pool, I'd need to add like 50-75 pounds of Calcium during the fill, plus their sequestering agent.
Not cheap for sure... but not ridiculously expensive if it really works. Some pool guys want to charge me $700 for a 5 visit startup.
Very confused and have to make a decision soon here as it's looking like plaster will be done in under a week.
I'm new to all this pool ownership stuff... even newer to the startup process. I've contacted several "pool guys" in my area and they all have differing methods and opinions.
When Googling and watching videos on Youtube I found out about the Orenda method and it looked interesting as, at first blush, it seemed to make a lot of sense about the aggressive water sucking the calcium out of the plaster. My tap water, which I'll be filling my pool with immediately after replastering, tests at a 60... for a 30k gallon pool, I'd need to add like 50-75 pounds of Calcium during the fill, plus their sequestering agent.
Not cheap for sure... but not ridiculously expensive if it really works. Some pool guys want to charge me $700 for a 5 visit startup.
Very confused and have to make a decision soon here as it's looking like plaster will be done in under a week.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 64,776
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Does your pool builder or plaster contractor require specific startup process or water chemistry for warranty purposes?
Palpatine
Bronze Supporter
I looked them up for a better idea and left more confused than I started. I cannot comment for or against them based on the quick search. There are many products out there. Some work and some don’t. They didn’t list anything besides the enzyme mumbo jumbo on their main page.
And I’m certainly not pointing any fingers. I like bio-guard products. They are overpriced for what they are but at least I know what is in them. I personally trust a known company more than buying white powder in a cardboard box from somewhere in China on Amazon. Or rolling the dice at HomeDepot with how they store the chlorine or the percent of the Muriatic Acid they are selling at the moment or does this years salt match the exact specs of last years salt. So yeah, many will disagree with me, and that’s ok. I’m not disagreeing with OP just suggesting some more intel on the company/products.
Palpatine
Bronze Supporter
I spoke to Orenda the other day and they put me in touch with a rep in my area. Both the Corporate office and my local Rep were very cool.
I actually just spoke to him again and he's going to come out on the day of plastering and walk me through the fill (using their special bucket/bin), etc.
I suppose I will be the Guinea Pig for the forum and keep everyone posted.
I actually just spoke to him again and he's going to come out on the day of plastering and walk me through the fill (using their special bucket/bin), etc.
I suppose I will be the Guinea Pig for the forum and keep everyone posted.
Here's the thing.... if @onBalance likes the Orenda process, you can be sure it is an ideal way to start your plaster off in the best way to promote a good cure for for long plaster life. The man is a Dr. House like expert in cement curing processes and cement quality.
Alternatively his Bicarb start up is an option also! The Bicarb Start – Pool Help
Maddie
Alternatively his Bicarb start up is an option also! The Bicarb Start – Pool Help
Maddie
Last edited:
Here's the thing.... if @onBalance likes the Orenda process, you can be sure it is an ideal way to start your plaster off in the best way to promote a good cure for for long plaster life. The man is a Dr. House like expert in cement curing processes and cement quality.
Alternatively his Bicarb start up is an option also! The Bicarb Start – Pool Help
Maddie
I apologize for not considering the source. I only looked up their clarifier which would have been comparable to pool blue and whatnot. (And it compared exactly like the other companies hocus pocus). They could have wonderful plaster agents.
Palpatine, if you are interested, please provide me with the pH, alkalinity, and calcium hardness levels of your tap water. With that information, I can suggest what would be best for your situation.
Palpatine
Bronze Supporter
Hi @onBalance ,
PH = 7.4
TA = 80
CH = 60
Thanks.
I'm just getting white plaster if that matters. I wanted color... but everyone says not to do it.
PH = 7.4
TA = 80
CH = 60
Thanks.
I'm just getting white plaster if that matters. I wanted color... but everyone says not to do it.
Colors are problematic.
Both the TA and CH are low. I was hoping that the TA was higher. That is my concern. But adding either sodium bicarbonate or calcium chloride makes the water a positive CSI (LSI) which is needed and what produces good results.
I don't want to get in the middle of your arrangement with Orenda, and I think the Orenda's Calcium Start-up should work fairly well. Plus they are getting very experienced with their method. They may consider also raising the TA (along with the CH) during their start-up process.
Hope it works well for your pool.
Both the TA and CH are low. I was hoping that the TA was higher. That is my concern. But adding either sodium bicarbonate or calcium chloride makes the water a positive CSI (LSI) which is needed and what produces good results.
I don't want to get in the middle of your arrangement with Orenda, and I think the Orenda's Calcium Start-up should work fairly well. Plus they are getting very experienced with their method. They may consider also raising the TA (along with the CH) during their start-up process.
Hope it works well for your pool.
Palpatine
Bronze Supporter
I was just responding to the question/topic originally posted. But I have been reviewing some back posts and like this explanation from BDavis-
[QUOTE
The Orenda method is fine so long as you live in an area where it actually rains and I feel the chances of scale are significantly higher even if using their recommended sequestrant.
OnBalance's Bicarb Startup is more for forgiving, less expensive, adaptable and reversible if need be. I bet I've done 50+ pools with it and haven't had a single issue.
I have never adjusted the CH of the fill water and only compensated for it by adding bicarb and keep the pH high enough to main the CSI in the +0.5 area. I don't add calcium because we typically have to drain our pools every couple years due to calcium levels through the roof.
There's a little more discussion on the Orenda method +/- HERE
][/QUOTE]