One Month old Salt Pool - Got TFPro Salt test kit - Combined Chloramines

May 6, 2023
5
Frisco, Texas
Pool Size
15000
This is my first pool.
I got my TFPro test kit last week, Today ran a full set of tests. Also had tested at 2 pool stores.
One store did the drop tests - my results are pretty much consistent with theirs except CYA which they measured as 60 PPM.
The other store's results were all over the place.
Below are my numbers
PH - 7.5
FC - 7 (been about 7 -7.5 for a week now - tested a few times during the week)
CC - 0.5
TA - 70
CH - 375
CYA - 50
Salt - 3400

My SWG is running at 50% , filter is on for 9 hrs a day.

Three questions
1. For Combined Chloramine test - After adding R-0003 - The solution was almost clear with a tiny tiny hint of pink. As soon as I added one drop of R0871 it became crystal clear. Based on this do I need to mark CC as 0.5. If so do I need to shock the pool? My pool is clear, no cloudiness etc.
2. I am having to add 2-3 cups of Muriatic Acid every two days since the PH seems to be going up. Is this normal for new plaster pools? Any reason for concern here?
3. My SWG came with an integrated Nature2 fusion Duo Cartridge. It has a startup cartridge in the slot. The poolschool guy (new pool) said to replace the startup with the regular cartridge after about a month. Based on reading the articles here, I don't want to use the DuoClear cartridge. Do I leave the Startup Cartridge in the slot? It should be all but used up now.

Thank you
Chandra
 
Chandra,

I would not worry about your CC levels unless it is more than one for a couple days.. For all practical purposes, your CC level is zero. Also keep in mind that the CC test needs to be done right after the FC tests, waiting will cause the test water to turn pink on its own.

Most new plaster pools need will need regular doses of acid.. Try to keep your pH at 7.6 to 7.8.. The farther you go toward 7.2 the faster it will jump back up.

Just leave the used up cartridge in there... Do not replace lt.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
1. CC of 0 to .5 is fine. As you described it, I would call it .5 (edit; at that low level it really doesn’t matter if you call it 0 or .5).

2. As I understand it, that is normal (I don’t have a plaster pool).

3. Someone with more knowledge than me about how that system works will need to answer that.


Edit: oops, too slow….Jim types faster than me. 😊
 
Jim and Saturn - Thank you for you reply.
My pool is on the south side of my house in full sun.
As long as the setup is managing the recommended FC (6-8 for 50 PPM CYA level)and minimal CC levels, do I need to concern myself with increasing the CYA to the recommended 70 PPM?
What advantage would I get by increasing the CYA to 70 PPM?
 
Jim and Saturn - Thank you for you reply.
My pool is on the south side of my house in full sun.
As long as the setup is managing the recommended FC (6-8 for 50 PPM CYA level)and minimal CC levels, do I need to concern myself with increasing the CYA to the recommended 70 PPM?
What advantage would I get by increasing the CYA to 70 PPM?

You would likely reduce your daily FC loss by increasing CYA to 70-80, thereby extending the life of the salt cell. In our pool it certainly makes a noticeable difference if CYA drops to 60 or below.
 
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Chandra,

It won't hurt anything to run you CYA at 50, but it means that you have have to run your SWCG harder to keep the FC where it needs to be.

Like Saturn94, I can tell, without testing, when my CYA drops below 60 because of the extra FC demand.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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@Saturn94

The only way that could happen is if you are using your nose to type the message. I normally start a post, and by the time I am ready to submit it, five other member have already replied... :mrgreen:

Thanks,

Jim R.

Lol, that’s my style of posting as well. 😁👍
 
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To add to this thread, most likely, your Nature2 cartridge acts as the top of the vessel. Do not throw it away at the end of the season if you close your pool. There is a separate "top" that can be used, which is what I had on mine that seals the Nature2 cartridge side of the vessel and keeps it watertight. I think in most cases, the pool builder will throw that "top" away.
 

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