Noisy 2" Check Valve

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R

Roguewave

0
Aug 3, 2015
87
Grants Pass, OR
Pool Size
18000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
Good afternoon,

Last season I bought and installed a 2" check valve with the goal of keeping the solar drain-down from upsetting the sand filter bed. I bought it at a local plumbing supply shop... not thinking that there may be specialized pool products better suited for the job.

I fired up the pump and the valve makes a loud clicking / knocking sound... somewhere around maybe 10 Hz. Very disruptive of pool enjoyment.

Thank God the thing came with a built-in union. I popped it open and removed the spring and half ball. It's only detriment now is maybe an undetectable bit of flow restriction. But I'd still like to have a check valve.

If I can't get this one to work, I may or may not be able to remove it. It's right below my Ecomatic solar cell housing with maybe just enough pipe left to put something else there, or perhaps a coupling, without sacrificing said expensive cell housing.

The only thing I can think to try is a stronger spring, if I can find one. The current one is very light duty. I'd be surprised if it was a half lb. And it's slightly funnel shaped.

Or do I need to just break down and buy a pool-specific check valve? If so, I do have enough pipe left further down the pressure-side line, but it will take some doing.


IMG_3749.jpg IMG_3751.jpg
 
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Roguewave said:
Good afternoon,

Last season I bought and installed a 2" check valve with the goal of keeping the solar drain-down from upsetting the sand filter bed. I bought it at a local plumbing supply shop... not thinking that there may be specialized pool products better suited for the job.

I fired up the pump and the valve makes a loud clicking / knocking sound... somewhere around maybe 10 Hz. Very disruptive of pool enjoyment.

EDIT: Photo links died and the system won't seem to let me load any others. I'll keep working on it...

Thank God the thing came with a built-in union. I popped it open and removed the spring and half ball. It's only detriment now is maybe an undetectable bit of flow restriction. But I'd still like to have a check valve.

If I can't get this one to work, I may or may not be able to remove it. It's right below my Ecomatic solar cell housing with maybe just enough pipe left to put something else there, or perhaps a coupling, without sacrificing said expensive cell housing.

The only thing I can think to try is a stronger spring, if I can find one. The current one is very light duty. I'd be surprised if it was a half lb. And it's slightly funnel shaped.

Or do I need to just break down and buy a pool-specific check valve? If so, I do have enough pipe left further down the pressure-side line, but it will take some doing.
Click to expand...
You can put a check valve in the plumbing right after the filter and accomplish the same thing. Half pound spring or even a swing check valve will work.
 
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1poolman1 said:
You can put a check valve in the plumbing right after the filter and accomplish the same thing. Half pound spring or even a swing check valve will work.
Click to expand...
Thanks, but that's what I did. Well... technically it goes filter, then out to the SWG, then check valve. There's no room between the filter and the SWG cell. But I wouldn't think it should matter... unless the SWG is causing some turbulence.

I had some photo issues. Looks like that's been sorted out. Not sure how much it helps you, though.
 
A Jandy check valve is what I'd recommend. Or better yet, a FlowVis flow meter (which doubles as a check valve). If you have a variable speed pump, you can fine-tune your solar heating system by adjusting your RPMs to achieve the perfect flow rate for your panels (using the flow meter). The FlowVis is based on a Jandy check valve body, and the FlowVis is sold with and without the body. So you could install a Jandy check valve now, and later upgrade it to a FlowVis if you decide to. Optimizing your flow rate will get the most heat in your pool for the least amount of cost (electricity). Theoretically, a FlowVis will pay for itself. It might take a hundred years, but, hey, it'll get there!

The check valve you're using now looks to be of low quality and if you're having trouble with it now, I'd guess it's only gonna get worse. Jandy check valves have a clear housing (as does the FlowVis) so you can visually inspect them at anytime, without taking them apart. Either is the right tool for the job, IMO.
 
Roguewave said:
Thanks, but that's what I did. Well... technically it goes filter, then out to the SWG, then check valve. There's no room between the filter and the SWG cell. But I wouldn't think it should matter... unless the SWG is causing some turbulence.
Click to expand...
Didn't see the picture. Generally, a bouncing check valve indicates air in the line. Or, it just might be harmonics in the sound of water flow through that valve. There is a lot of turbulence with the valve right at a 90. May be part of the problem.
 
Dirk said:
The check valve you're using now looks to be of low quality and if you're having trouble with it now, I'd guess it's only gonna get worse. Jandy check valves have a clear housing (as does the FlowVis) so you can visually inspect them at anytime, without taking them apart. Either is the right tool for the job, IMO.
Click to expand...
I had a feeling. Kind of hard to imagine someone could sell you a check valve that doesn't work at relatively low pressure and 50 GPM or so. But live and learn I suppose.

Thanks!
 

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1poolman1 said:
Didn't see the picture. Generally, a bouncing check valve indicates air in the line. Or, it just might be harmonics in the sound of water flow through that valve. There is a lot of turbulence with the valve right at a 90. May be part of the problem.
Click to expand...
Picture should be available again now.

No air that I can detect, but definitely a bouncing check valve.

And yeah... it's right after a 90
 
JamesW said:
It's pointing down, is that correct?

Do you have pictures of everything?
Click to expand...
Correct. Out of the top of the sand filter... then 90 down to the SWG cell housing which requires a 90 left and then a 90 after to go back downward into the check valve.

Don't have pics of the rest at the moment. I'm busy setting up a bunch of showings for tomorrow. I'm a real estate agent. Holidays are for working.
 
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Something is not right with the configuration.

It should not be cycling with good flow.

Also, you don't want the solar after a SWG because it can cause the panels to fill with hydrogen gas.
 
JamesW said:
Also, you don't want the solar after a SWG because it can cause the panels to fill with hydrogen gas.
Click to expand...
Excellent catch, James! @Roguewave, he's absolutely right. An SWG is always the last thing on the pad before the water goes back to the pool (not counting valves). The output of an SWG is chlorine gas, which quickly turns to highly-chlorinated water, plus hydrogen gas (a byproduct of the SWG process). You don't want any of that going anywhere but straight to the pool. You'll need to reconfigure more of your plumbing than just that check valve to correct that.
 
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Roguewave said:
Except I forgot to mention I have a single speed pump.
Click to expand...
Gotcha. You might add that to your signature (brand, model, hp, etc). So if you decide to upgrade the check valve, go with Jandy. If (when) you upgrade your pump to a variable speed,* you'd then have the option to upgrade the Jandy check valve to a FlowVis, if you wanted to pursue that.

* Single speed pumps are all but outlawed (certain States, certain sizes). Eventually you won't have a choice but to go variable speed...
 
Dirk said:
Gotcha. You might add that to your signature (brand, model, hp, etc). So if you decide to upgrade the check valve, go with Jandy. If (when) you upgrade your pump to a variable speed,* you'd then have the option to upgrade the Jandy check valve to a FlowVis, if you wanted to pursue that.

* Single speed pumps are all but outlawed (certain States, certain sizes). Eventually you won't have a choice but to go variable speed...
Click to expand...
Good to know, thanks!

And... regarding the SWG / solar reconfiguration... that's a big one. Everything we've been talking about so far pales in comparison. The 2 sets of plumbing / electrical are 20 feet apart.

The pump, filter and SWG are on the side of the house in the middle. It was installed this way to keep the noise away from the master bedroom... for exhausted mother and newborns. The solar is on the rear corner, nearest the lowest part of the roof... for obvious reasons (fortunately, there is a lot of south facing roofline on the backyard side.) The plumbing runs underground between the two.

The system has been running this way for 16 years. Perhaps the single speed pump is the ticket for keeping the Hydrogen flowing on down the line. I guess I better stock up! :)
 
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Huh. My pipes go up the wall at least 20' from my pad, too. They go underground as well. But they both come and go from/to the pad, so I'm not sure what the challenge would be. I'll take your word for it. I'd have to see the whole layout, or a schematic, to better advise. Or, as you say, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
 

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