Hi all, I'm new to this site and to pool maintenance in general. In fact, the only thing that I have going for me is that I have a background in science. Backstory of the problem... my boyfriend recently had his pool re-plastered on 5/7/20. As the builder was in his truck and nearly driving off, he said to add 2 gallons of acid to the pool after it was filled and to brush it several times a day. He said that there was no problem turning on the filter, (heater cannot be bypassed), just not to run the pool cleaner that moves along the bottom of the pool. We did as instructed, but are quickly learning that this process is a lot more complex. After doing more research, I found that an acid start up is supposed to drop the TA to zero? The TA reading taken 2 days ago was 90ppm. However, the pH reading looks to be incredibly low (very light yellow, not even associated with a number although the pool doesn't smell acidic, though it might be mildly irritating to the skin when in contact with the water) and, I am very worried that if it is truly that acidic it is going to damage his heater. However, the pool water is still incredibly cloudy from the plaster dust. Since the plaster is supposedly basic, I'm a bit surprised that the pH is so low even though I know that we added acid. At this point, my boyfriend has added about 4 gallons of diluted muriatic acid (I'm guessing between a 31% and 40% concentration), to his 21,000 gallon pool over the course of 4 days. My question is... what do we do at this point? I know that I am missing something. I feel that we are in need of some solid advice. To re-cap: The pool is still cloudy from plaster dust (we are continuing to brush it), pH levels are super off, TA is not, and I'm worried that we're going to end up damaging the other components of his pool. We are now 6 days removed from re-plastering and 4 days removed from turning on the filter. Please help. Thank you in advance.
New Plaster and No Instructions...please help
- Thread starter Busy Bumble Bee
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 62,663
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum!
www.troublefreepool.com
Read through those and come back with questions. We have some members that are well versed in new plaster start up.
What test kit do you have for your water chemistry testing?
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
Plaster Start-Up Guides - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
What test kit do you have for your water chemistry testing?
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
Hello, and thank you so much for responding. I actually did read both of your suggested links before posting my question. We are using a titrant water testing system, not strips, but I don't know exactly which one. I'll ask him for the specifics on that. Until then, my questions are as follows:
1) Will the acidic water destroy the heater/ filtration system and other components of his pool? And, if that's the case, then I assume that the pH should be raised quickly?
2) Raising the pH will save the components of the pool, but will do nothing to help to eliminate the plaster dust. So we would continue running the filter and brushing? It's my understanding that the filtration system can handle that, but the heater may not be able to?
3) Raising the pH will also throw off the TA, as they are separate readings but connected, so what is the lesser of the 2 evils when dealing with new plaster?
4) It seems like the builder decided to mesh together 2 different start up systems (both add acid and run the filter connected to the heating system)… do we just stay the course and see what happens?
1) Will the acidic water destroy the heater/ filtration system and other components of his pool? And, if that's the case, then I assume that the pH should be raised quickly?
2) Raising the pH will save the components of the pool, but will do nothing to help to eliminate the plaster dust. So we would continue running the filter and brushing? It's my understanding that the filtration system can handle that, but the heater may not be able to?
3) Raising the pH will also throw off the TA, as they are separate readings but connected, so what is the lesser of the 2 evils when dealing with new plaster?
4) It seems like the builder decided to mesh together 2 different start up systems (both add acid and run the filter connected to the heating system)… do we just stay the course and see what happens?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,663
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You should not be putting water with a pH below 7 through a heater. It will dissolve the copper heat exchanger.
@ajw22 is more conversant on plaster start up than I.
The guides show what chemistry levels to maintain.
@ajw22 is more conversant on plaster start up than I.
The guides show what chemistry levels to maintain.
Last edited:
It sounds like we got some really bad advice from our builder. ok. I'll try to figure out what to do now....
Thank you.
Thank you.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 64,979
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You are asking specific questions while we do not know anything about the pool or equipment or test results. When you can give us more detail we can give better answers. What specific equipment - heater, filer, pump, etc.? What test kits and specific test results?
TURN OFF YOUR PUMP! YOUR PUMP SHOULD NOT HAVE BEEN RUNNING DURING THE ACID STARTUP.
In the meantime...
In Start-up Chemistry for Plaster Pools @onBalance describes the acid startup as where enough acid was added to lower the pH to 4.5 and alkalinity to zero - about 3 gals. of acid per 10,000 gallons of water. You say 4 gallons were added to a 21,000 gallon pool.
If it was 31% acid PoolMath says it would lower pH by 5.9 and lower TA by 95.
From Pool Spa News
Acid Start-up
“Cleans” the pool surface (especially colored aggregate surfaces) with a low water pH – usually 4.0 to 6.0 – which requires bringing the pH up into a normal range after several days of the process. Supporters say it produces smoother, better-looking surfaces; opponents say it results in overly aggressive water, which leads to microscopic etching that degrades plaster.
It is hard to say at what pH and for how long it takes before the heater is damaged.
The plaster dust needs to be filtered out. The plaster dust will not damage the heater as long as you don't turn it on. bUT YOU SHOULD NOT BE RUNNING THE PUMP AND FILTERING UNTIL THE Ph IS 7.2
This describes the complete acid start-up process you seem to be going through...
ultimatepoolcare.com
See step 2 says DO NOT TURN ON PUMP.
Step 6 says how to adjust the water back up:
First test your pool with a base demand test and calculate the amount of ALKALINITY AND pH ADJUSTER that the pool needs. Then use a 4 or 5 gallon plastic pail, dip into the pool and fill with pool water; add SODIUM BICARB AND SODIUM CARBONATE and stir to COMPLETELY dissolve. Broadcast SOLUTION out over the Top of the pool. BRUSH IMMEDIATELY! Repeat this procedure until all of the ADJUSTING chemicals needed (per base demand test) have been added to the pool. Wait 24 hours and retest pool.
And only at step 7 does it say to turn on pump after pH is at 7.2
Don't worry about the TA. Follow the steps above WITH YOUR PUMP OFF and raise your pH. You are well past the 5 days startup with acid point.
Post actual test results and we can help you more.
@JoyfulNoise you have any other ideas to recover from this?
TURN OFF YOUR PUMP! YOUR PUMP SHOULD NOT HAVE BEEN RUNNING DURING THE ACID STARTUP.
In the meantime...
In Start-up Chemistry for Plaster Pools @onBalance describes the acid startup as where enough acid was added to lower the pH to 4.5 and alkalinity to zero - about 3 gals. of acid per 10,000 gallons of water. You say 4 gallons were added to a 21,000 gallon pool.
If it was 31% acid PoolMath says it would lower pH by 5.9 and lower TA by 95.
From Pool Spa News
Acid Start-up
“Cleans” the pool surface (especially colored aggregate surfaces) with a low water pH – usually 4.0 to 6.0 – which requires bringing the pH up into a normal range after several days of the process. Supporters say it produces smoother, better-looking surfaces; opponents say it results in overly aggressive water, which leads to microscopic etching that degrades plaster.
It is hard to say at what pH and for how long it takes before the heater is damaged.
The plaster dust needs to be filtered out. The plaster dust will not damage the heater as long as you don't turn it on. bUT YOU SHOULD NOT BE RUNNING THE PUMP AND FILTERING UNTIL THE Ph IS 7.2
This describes the complete acid start-up process you seem to be going through...
Pool Hard Start Up Procedure - The Ultimate in Pool Care
Pool Hard Start Up Procedure Before you use any of the following information to adjust your swimming pool and/or spa chemistry, please refer to the safety information toward the bottom of this page. We use an acid start-up procedure to prepare your new gunite swimming pool for use. Its
ultimatepoolcare.com
See step 2 says DO NOT TURN ON PUMP.
Step 6 says how to adjust the water back up:
First test your pool with a base demand test and calculate the amount of ALKALINITY AND pH ADJUSTER that the pool needs. Then use a 4 or 5 gallon plastic pail, dip into the pool and fill with pool water; add SODIUM BICARB AND SODIUM CARBONATE and stir to COMPLETELY dissolve. Broadcast SOLUTION out over the Top of the pool. BRUSH IMMEDIATELY! Repeat this procedure until all of the ADJUSTING chemicals needed (per base demand test) have been added to the pool. Wait 24 hours and retest pool.
And only at step 7 does it say to turn on pump after pH is at 7.2
Don't worry about the TA. Follow the steps above WITH YOUR PUMP OFF and raise your pH. You are well past the 5 days startup with acid point.
Post actual test results and we can help you more.
@JoyfulNoise you have any other ideas to recover from this?