New Hot Tub Owner - Taylor Test Kit

mwhitney

Silver Supporter
Feb 1, 2025
70
Summerland, BC
Pool Size
1200
Hi all,

My wife and I purchased a 1200L hot tub and spent the first few months going in with water samples to attempt to get the levels right. Out of frustration, we've since purchased a Taylor K1005 test kit and it is my hope that combined with the PoolMath app, we can get a handle on things and free ourselves of running into town to get things dialled in. The test strips we were using are just too vague for us, at least at this point in time.

With the Taylor Kit (first use this weekend), I got the following readings:

=====
Chlorine (used the 'half diluted' method):
Free: 2 ppm
Total: 3 ppm
Combined 1ppm (x2) = 2 ppm

PH: 7.6-7.7 ppm

Alkalinity: 3 drops of reagent x 10 = 30 ppm

Hardness: 20 drops of reagent x 10 = 200 ppm.
======

According to the app, we were to add 84g if Alka-rise, which we've done. I typically put 4 tabs of chlorine in the floater and open it up to about 1/8" exposed. I think all is looking good and just wanted some clarification on the 'Free Chlorine' tab in the app.

If I enter 2ppm in the first field 'Current Free Chlorine', is the CYA field necessary? Also, and this is my main question, what does one enter in the 'Target' Free Chlorine' field and how does 'SLAM' affect things? What should be entered in the input field beside the 'Slam' option (and should that be checked)?

Our weekly basic schedule for chemicals has been:
  • Test and adjust pH / alkalinity as needed (we add the chemicals dry to the surface of the water with main jets off, circulation pumps on and cover off), wait 20 minutes.
  • Add 1 oz 'Prevent' (anti fungicide), wait 20 minutes, cover off
  • Add 1 oz spa-shock (sprinkle over the surface of the water) and wait 20 minutes, cover off
  • Add 6 oz Aqua Finesse (not sure if this is necessary. The dealer recommended it but it's pricey).
Thanks in advance.
-Mike
 
Welcome to TFP!!!

Here are some resources that can help.

First, your kit is ok, but doesn't contain the FAS/DPD for chlorine testing. In general, we recommend the K-2006C (Test Kits Compared). To upgrade your kit, you would need the K-1766 (edited to correct) you need the K-1515 FAS/DPD ( Amazon.ca )

PH: 7.6-7.7 ppm

Alkalinity: 3 drops of reagent x 10 = 30 ppm

Hardness: 20 drops of reagent x 10 = 200 ppm.
======
I'm surprised the your TA is 30 with your pH level. On the TA test, you should continue to add drops until the color no longer changes, then subtract that last drop. Extended instructions here:
According to the app, we were to add 84g if Alka-rise, which we've done. I typically put 4 tabs of chlorine in the floater and open it up to about 1/8" exposed. I think all is looking good and just wanted some clarification on the 'Free Chlorine' tab in the app.

If I enter 2ppm in the first field 'Current Free Chlorine', is the CYA field necessary? Also, and this is my main question, what does one enter in the 'Target' Free Chlorine' field and how does 'SLAM' affect things? What should be entered in the input field beside the 'Slam' option (and should that be checked)?
You should enter 2.
SLAM is when you have algae. Ignore slam unless you have algae...Link-->SLAM Process
CYA is necessary as a buffer for the FC (no CYA is very harsh on skin). Did you test CYA?
Some good links:
Link-->FC/CYA Levels
Our weekly basic schedule for chemicals has been:
  • Test and adjust pH / alkalinity as needed (we add the chemicals dry to the surface of the water with main jets off, circulation pumps on and cover off), wait 20 minutes.
Once TA is set, you should not have to continually add alkalinity...just manage the pH. Any pH in the 7s is just fine.
  • Add 1 oz 'Prevent' (anti fungicide), wait 20 minutes, cover off
Not necessary.
  • Add 1 oz spa-shock (sprinkle over the surface of the water) and wait 20 minutes, cover off
If you follow the FC/CYA recommendations, there is no need to shock.
  • Add 6 oz Aqua Finesse (not sure if this is necessary. The dealer recommended it but it's pricey).
Not necessary.
 
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Hi PoolStored -
Thanks for your detailed reply.
Regarding the upgrade kit, Amazon.ca doesn't have it but I found it here:
Taylor K-1766 Chloride Salt Water Drop Test Kit
The description reads: "...provides accurate monitoring of your pool's salt level." Is this what we'd need? To clarify, we don't have a saltwater spa.

RE TA, it could have been user error. We added chemicals yesterday but I'll run the tests again.

RE CYA, I did not test that. Interesting about harshness on the skin. We have noticed very dry skin (no redness or anything) - I'm wondering now if that's due to something being off.

To clarify, are you saying that shock is not necessary unless there is algae and that we should, instead, be monitoring the CYA (this is all new to me).

Good to know we don't require 'Prevent' or 'AquaFinesse'. The dealer told us that the AF would reduce the amount of chlorine we'd need in the tub and mitigate dry skin etc. - pricey stuff and I'm not convinced we've had to use less chlorine.

I have some reading to do. Thank you again for the resources.
 
Thanks for your detailed reply.
Regarding the upgrade kit, Amazon.ca doesn't have it but I found it here:
Taylor K-1766 Chloride Salt Water Drop Test Kit
The description reads: "...provides accurate monitoring of your pool's salt level." Is this what we'd need? To clarify, we don't have a saltwater spa.
Sorry, wrong kit. You need the K-1515. Apologies.

To clarify, are you saying that shock is not necessary unless there is algae and that we should, instead, be monitoring the CYA (this is all new to me).
Yes, follow the FC/CYA article. Monitor your FC and CYA. FC more frequently, CYA every couple of weeks. Maintain your FC for your CYA.

CYA Test instructions:
Good to know we don't require 'Prevent' or 'AquaFinesse'. The dealer told us that the AF would reduce the amount of chlorine we'd need in the tub and mitigate dry skin etc. - pricey stuff and I'm not convinced we've had to use less chlorine.
You are right not to be convinced.
 
Aqua Finesses is sodium carbonate...same thing as washing soda which you can get at the grocery. Amazing they sell this stuff for that price.

All it will do is raise your pH and your TA. Suspend the use.

1739735014574.png
 
Sorry, wrong kit. You need the K-1515. Apologies.
Thanks for clarifying. In the K-1005 Kit, there exists three yellow bottles as well: R-0001 DPD reagent #1, R-0002 DPD Reagent #2 and R-0003 DPD Reagent #3 to test for Free, Combined and Total Chlorine. Does the K-1515 kit do something different that I'm missing?
Yes, follow the FC/CYA article. Monitor your FC and CYA. FC more frequently, CYA every couple of weeks. Maintain your FC for your CYA.

CYA Test instructions:

You are right not to be convinced.
I'll dig into that article. Thanks for the advice.
 
Thanks for clarifying. In the K-1005 Kit, there exists three yellow bottles as well: R-0001 DPD reagent #1, R-0002 DPD Reagent #2 and R-0003 DPD Reagent #3 to test for Free, Combined and Total Chlorine. Does the K-1515 kit do something different that I'm missing?
Yes. You have the DPD test. It is really a test to tell you IF you have chlorine. It is not really accurate.

The K-1515 is a FAS/DPD test. It includes a powder and a reagent. It is accurate to .2 FC and up to 50FC.

The DPD chlorine test will NOT show accurate results above 5 ppm. This is an issue if you wish to follow TFP methods, as we teach that it’s best to maintain a ratio of chlorine to CYA, see the Chlorine/CYA Chart, not just a firm 1-4 ppm.

The DPD chlorine test uses “color-matching.” You add a few drops of reagent to the water and then match the pink sample color to the comparator. It’s easy to mismatch the true levels.

Perhaps worst of all, the DPD chlorine test's pink sample color can "bleach out." If the chlorine is well above the 5 ppm limit, the pink sample color after the reagent is added can fade out or even remain clear. This can lead one to believe the chlorine level is MUCH lower than reality, potentially leading to adding even more chlorine to the pool.
 
Hi PS -
I just ran some tests after having added the chemicals yesterday as noted in my first post.

The CYA test (I had to re-do the sample with the 50/50 diluted method of tap water / pool water). The black dot became obscured in the TT at the 90 mark, so 180, total. The Taylor instructions give a target of 30-50. 40-50 in the PM app.

PH is looking to fall between the 7.5 and 7.8 color 'window' to my eye.

Alkalinity: took 17 drops (omitted the 18th drop), so 170 ppm here. I'm guessing this is high due to the recommendation to add 148g of alkarise, yesterday.

Chlorine using the test kit I have from the Taylor K-1005 kit looks to be app. 1ppm for combined chlorine. We'll have to get the K-1515 FAS/DPD test as you recommend.

I'm not sure what to do with the above values, i.e. the high alkalinity and the CYA. The resources recommended draining some water out if the CYA is too high. Is that what you'd recommend?

Cheers.
 
The CYA test (I had to re-do the sample with the 50/50 diluted method of tap water / pool water). The black dot became obscured in the TT at the 90 mark, so 180, total. The Taylor instructions give a target of 30-50. 40-50 in the PM app.
YIKES! What have you been using to chlorinate? How do you intend to chlorinate? How old is the water? That CYA is really high...and you cannot maintain enough FC to sanitize the water. I would not recommend using the tub until you replace and rebalance water. Time for a water replacement.

Alkalinity: took 17 drops (omitted the 18th drop), so 170 ppm here. I'm guessing this is high due to the recommendation to add 148g of alkarise, yesterday.
YIKES! that is high. The aqua finesse didn't help you either...it raises TA...like a hammer. Your pH makes more sense. I would also test your fill water for TA.

I'm not sure what to do with the above values, i.e. the high alkalinity and the CYA. The resources recommended draining some water out if the CYA is too high. Is that what you'd recommend?
I'd recommend that you replace your water. Keep some FC in there, like at least 5ppm, until your test kit arrives.
When your test kit comes, replace the water.
Use Aahsome to purge the tub before replacement. (link to amazon.ca for Aahsome below).
Then follow the startup guide:



Some aahsome purge basics:

Some threads on purging:
 
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YIKES! What have you been using to chlorinate? How do you intend to chlorinate? How old is the water? That CYA is really high...and you cannot maintain enough FC to sanitize the water. I would not recommend using the tub until you replace and rebalance water. Time for a water replacement.
Crazy - the spa place has us on a floater with chlorine pucks (SpaBoss Spa Tabs). The tech said 4 tabs per week and to open the 'reveal' to about 1/8" - 1/4". We've been riding at about 1/8". Leading up to last week's treatment, the test strips (all we had before the Taylor kit arrived was showing strong pink. The hot-tub place had us add 7 oz of spa shock two weeks ago.
YIKES! that is high. The aqua finesse didn't help you either...it raises TA...like a hammer. Your pH makes more sense. I would also test your fill water for TA.
OK - we'll cease using AF.
I'd recommend that you replace your water. Keep some FC in there, like at least 5ppm, until your test kit arrives.
When your test kit comes, replace the water.
Use Aahsome to purge the tub before replacement. (link to amazon.ca for Aahsome below).
Then follow the startup guide:



Some aahsome purge basics:

Some threads on purging:
Thanks for the info, again. We got the hot-tub in the first week of December so we're only a month early for draining. It's a bit daunting given that we've followed the dealer's recommendations following bringing in consistent water samples. I'm keen to learn and get this dialled in but want to make sure my ladder's against the right wall.
 
Crazy - the spa place has us on a floater with chlorine pucks (SpaBoss Spa Tabs). The tech said 4 tabs per week and to open the 'reveal' to about 1/8" - 1/4". We've been riding at about 1/8". Leading up to last week's treatment, the test strips (all we had before the Taylor kit arrived was showing strong pink. The hot-tub place had us add 7 oz of spa shock two weeks ago.
My name is PoolStored...ask me why. Pool/Spa stores exist to sell you product. That is how they survive. CYA does not occur naturally in available water...only through adding it. Pucks contain chlorine, but chlorine must be stabilized to be in solid form. As you use pucks, you are adding CYA. With CYA north of about 90ppm, you cannot maintain enough FC to sanitize the water. FULL STOP. That is why the FC/CYA ratio exists...Link-->FC/CYA Levels

Thanks for the info, again. We got the hot-tub in the first week of December so we're only a month early for draining. It's a bit daunting given that we've followed the dealer's recommendations following bringing in consistent water samples. I'm keen to learn and get this dialled in but want to make sure my ladder's against the right wall.
I hate to tell you the inconvenient truth. "Free Water Testing" is a precursor to selling you product. Again, I am PoolStored...ask me why. Better yet, read: I knew I was Pool Stored when...

I would read this again:

You need to determine how you are going to chlorinate long term. Pucks are NOT sustainable...they add CYA. Our recommendation is to use DiChlor until you have about 40ppm CYA, then convert to liquid chlorine. I am not familiar with BC. It may be difficult to find liquid chlorine (bleach). You need to find a source of liquid chlorine, or bleach...that is NOT Clorox, not splashless, not fragrance, not softeners...just bleach.

What is the name of the local spa store...I couldn't find one in a search. We may be able to help you with a source.
 
There is a strong chlorine odour for the first 5 minutes or so of getting in - not sure if it persists or if we get used to it.
There should be no chlorine "odour" in a properly sanitized tub. The smell is Combined Chorine (CC). This means your spa is battling bad stuff. Don't go in. The K-1515 contains the reagents to test CC, which your K1005 doesn't have.

Suspend the use of the tub until we get you squared away.
 
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My name is PoolStored...ask me why. Pool/Spa stores exist to sell you product. That is how they survive. CYA does not occur naturally in available water...only through adding it. Pucks contain chlorine, but chlorine must be stabilized to be in solid form. As you use pucks, you are adding CYA. With CYA north of about 90ppm, you cannot maintain enough FC to sanitize the water. FULL STOP. That is why the FC/CYA ratio exists...Link-->FC/CYA Levels
The avatar is now making sense. I had to scan the thread... to be candid, it's been taking the joy out of the hot tub for us.
I hate to tell you the inconvenient truth. "Free Water Testing" is a precursor to selling you product. Again, I am PoolStored...ask me why. Better yet, read: I knew I was Pool Stored when...
https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/i-knew-i-was-pool-stored-when.272640/
I would read this again:
We'll be going through it.
You need to determine how you are going to chlorinate long term. Pucks are NOT sustainable...they add CYA. Our recommendation is to use DiChlor until you have about 40ppm CYA, then convert to liquid chlorine. I am not familiar with BC. It may be difficult to find liquid chlorine (bleach). You need to find a source of liquid chlorine, or bleach...that is NOT Clorox, not splashless, not fragrance, not softeners...just bleach.

What is the name of the local spa store...I couldn't find one in a search. We may be able to help you with a source.
We purchased the tub at Okanagan Home Center in Penticton, BC.
 
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There should be no chlorine "odour" in a properly sanitized tub. The smell is Combined Chorine (CC). This means your spa is battling bad stuff. Don't go in. The K-1515 contains the reagents to test CC, which your K1005 doesn't have.

Suspend the use of the tub until we get you squared away.
I really appreciate the advice and quick replies. I've since ordered the test kit and Ahh-some product. Looks like we'll be draining the tub next weekend.
 
The avatar is now making sense. I had to scan the thread... to be candid, it's been taking the joy out of the hot tub for us.
I'm sorry for Red Pilling you...was not so hard for me to swallow...once I learned, the pool is a dream...

When you get it dialed in...it will be a joy!!!

We purchased the tub at Okanagan Home Center in Penticton, BC.
Yeah, not so much available on their chemical availability online...again, testing is the foundation and chlorinating strategy going forward is key...finding liquid chlorine will be your Key....🔑

I really appreciate the advice and quick replies. I've since ordered the test kit and Ahh-some product. Looks like we'll be draining the tub next weekend.
Happy to help!!!
 
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