New DIY Pool Build - Nebraska

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tylerharm29

Member
Jan 5, 2025
7
Omaha, NE
Hello,

I’m looking to install an inground vinyl liner pool kit from Pool Warehouse this spring and wanted opinion from this forum prior to making any final decisions. Here are my current specs:

16ft x 32ft rectangle

42” steel walls, coved bottom with 5ft height (4ft-6” water depth)

Tanning ledge with steps on one end

(2) skimmers

(1) set of main drains

(3) returns

Pump: 2.2HP Aqua Genie Variable Speed (2” inlet)

Filter: 31” Aqua Genie Top Mount Sand Filter

In-line Auto Chlorinator

Heater: Hayward 275k BTU Natural Gas

Single Light (500 Watt) on opposite end from tanning ledge, may move to middle of the one of the long sides.

I plan on running all schedule 40 PVC for the plumbing and using Jandy Valves

The main drains are required here per code as well as tying them back into the sanitary sewer line of the house.

Questions:
  1. Does my equipment look to be sized appropriately (# of skimmer/returns/pump size/filter/heater/etc.)?
  2. What is the recommended way to plumb the main drains and skimmers back at the equipment pad? (see the below plumbing detail for how I currently have it drawn with 3-way valves separating the 2 skimmers and then another 3-way valve separating the main drains). Are there benefits for this, or should I just have 2 ways valves for each line connected to a common header before going into the pump for the skimmers and main drains?
  3. What is the recommended way to plumb the return lines at the equipment pad? Should I have separate piping for each return or daisy chain them as currently shown.
  4. Recommendations on skimmer locations. The prevailing winds in my area during the summer months are from the South or West and the 2 skimmers are located on the north side of the pool.
  5. Recommendations on winter covers?
I appreciate any additional insight and or recommendations you may have. Attached are a few drawings for reference.
 

Attachments

  • Layout.pdf
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  • Plumb.pdf
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  • Harm 00066880 Rev A.pdf
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I'd wire the pump for 230v and get the largest Variable Speed Pump you can afford. WaterwayDefender 2.7, Pentair Intelliflo3, Hayward Triton VS 950.
Get the largest heater you can get. Will not use more gas, will just heat faster. Ensure your gas meters and lines are big enough.
Get the largest filter you can get. I'd suggest a cartridge >400.
I'd use 2" Schedule 40.
I would not put an puck chlorinator on ANY pool that has a heater. Get a saltwater chlorine generator.
Main drains need to be located and connected per regulations, single run return. You can put in on a a two-way diverter.
Returns should be straight runs. These three diverters are all you need:
1739583687297.png
Skimmers should be located with mouth opening facing prevailing winds.
 
ajw22 said:
Welcome to TFP.

I suggest you post whatever is in the PDFs as JPG or PNG images. It will make it easier to review and you will get more comments,

Why 275K BTU heater and not 400K? What model heater?

Who is doing electrical and gas?

What size schedule 40?

Why an auto chlorinator and not an SWG?

Equipment Pad Best Practices - Further Reading

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How to select pool equipment - Further Reading

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I've attached some JPG's of the PDF's that I orginally uploaded.
- Sounds like a bigger heater is the way to go so I will do that.
- I have the electrical and gas line contracted out
- 2" Schedule 40 for the plumbing
- What are the benefits with SWG vs Chlorinator?
 

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  • General Layout.jpg
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  • Pool Layout.jpg
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PoolStored said:
I'd wire the pump for 230v and get the largest Variable Speed Pump you can afford. WaterwayDefender 2.7, Pentair Intelliflo3, Hayward Triton VS 950.
Get the largest heater you can get. Will not use more gas, will just heat faster. Ensure your gas meters and lines are big enough.
Get the largest filter you can get. I'd suggest a cartridge >400.
I'd use 2" Schedule 40.
I would not put an puck chlorinator on ANY pool that has a heater. Get a saltwater chlorine generator.
Main drains need to be located and connected per regulations, single run return. You can put in on a a two-way diverter.
Returns should be straight runs. These three diverters are all you need:
View attachment 628197
Skimmers should be located with mouth opening facing prevailing winds.
Click to expand...
Awesome advice, thank you.
 
Using tablets in a chlorinator adds chlorine, CYA, and acid to the pool constantly. The CYA will accumulate over time and eventually you will have too much CYA and need to drain water to lower it. The acid will backflow and damage the check valve and heater eventually.

A SWG generates the chlorine you need on site without adding unwanted chemicals.

SWG How It Works - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

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Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!
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Make sure electrical includes GFCI CBs for pump and light and pool is properly bonded following NEC 680.

Make sure your gas service and meter is properly sized for a 400K BTU appliance and piping follows heater installation manual.

You do not need a 3 way valve and 2 way valves on returns. One or the other is fine.

Skimmer and return placement look fine in your diagram.

Pool Covers - Further Reading

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tylerharm29 said:
I will read up on the SWG. Do I need to switch my panels from steel to polymer when going with SWG?
Click to expand...
You will get mixed answers here. Many here, like me have 30 year old steel walls going strong...but I have never had a leak. Walls should never see salt, unless you have a leak, which is rare if you maintain the pool.

Others will tell you to get polymer, and they are not wrong. Just not because of the SWG...all water will rust the steel.
 
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Note that many pool chemicals including liquid chlorine, chlorine tablets, and muriatic acid add salt that accumulates. Over time most pools become a salt pool even if you are not using a SWG.

Your decision on steel or polymer walls should not be influenced by a SWG.
 
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tylerharm29 said:
The main drains are required here per code as well as tying them back into the sanitary sewer line of the house.
Click to expand...
I’d question this one. It’s usually an IF you have any main drain, it’s gotta be a dual drain anti-entrapment style.

Are you sure the requirement isn’t that you must have a way to pump any waste water to a sanitary line and not have it dumped into the street? Why would a pool drain be tied into the sewer line?
 
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Bperry said:
I’d question this one. It’s usually an IF you have any main drain, it’s gotta be a dual drain anti-entrapment style.

Are you sure the requirement isn’t that you must have a way to pump any waste water to a sanitary line and not have it dumped into the street? Why would a pool drain be tied into the sewer line?
Click to expand...
I didn’t describe this very well.

The requirement is that you must have a way to pump waste water to a sanitary line as well as draining the pool, that water must go to the sanitary sewer as well. I originally was going to utilize a cartridge style filter so that I wouldn’t have to backwash, and not tie anything into the sanitary line but the part about draining the pool ends up requiring it, hence why I added the main drains. I thought the main drains would also aid in pulling water from the bottom when heating the pool.

I had a few additional questions come up:

Is there a recommended height for where the returns should be vertically on the wall?

How long should I expect to run the pump each day? Are there recommendations on electronic controllers for this to control via your phone?

How often should I expect to refill/top off the pool due to evaporation/low water level?

Thanks,
 
tylerharm29 said:
The requirement is that you must have a way to pump waste water to a sanitary line as well as draining the pool, that water must go to the sanitary sewer as well.
Click to expand...
Can you post a link to the code?

Omaha residential pool code does not contain the requirement for a residential pool.

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PoolStored said:
Can you post a link to the code?

Omaha residential pool code does not contain the requirement for a residential pool.

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The only spot I've found it is in talking with local pool companies and the Douglas County Health Department. I've attached the section of the permit (see section f. for the disposal requirements to the sanitary sewer.
 

Attachments

  • Permit Requirements.jpg
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You will have to get clarification from the HD and or inspector.

My read of this is that you have a method "drain" (lower the water level). I don't interpret it as actually draining the pool. The HD or inspector may or may not agree. You need to get interpretation/guidance from them. You can lower the water level (drain) with the pool pump.

On a sand filter, the MPV will likely have a setting for "waste." This will lower (drain) the pool, and will need to connect the waste outlet of the MPV to the sanitary sewer.

On a cartridge filter, you will want a 3-way diverter in between the pump and the filter to "drain" the pool, and it will need to be connected to the sanitary sewer.
 
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