Need to seal my stamped concrete patio

[richmgreen]

Hello. When my patio was put in 3 years ago, it was sealed (with some color). Now it is showing signs of wear and time to reseal. Having trouble finding anyone local to do the job. Is it something I can do myself? Also, they used a water base sealer and I'm told it should have been oil based to stand up to chlorine batter?

Any advice?

Thanks
Rich

 

[cowboycasey]

I went with direct colors and they do videos and how to and if you call them they will walk you through what you need and how to do it

Direct Colors | Decorative Concrete Stains

Your premiere source for Decorative Concrete color products, supplies, photos, design ideas, and a whole lot more ★ Free Project Consultation ★

directcolors.com

How-To Video Guides | Direct Colors™

Step by Step YouTube How-to Guides for Acid Stain, Concrete Sealer, Concrete Countertops and More. Everything You Need to Know Before You Begin!

directcolors.com

 

[richmgreen]

Attached is the wear I am seeing. When they first poured the deck, they sealed it with a clear sealant. Then because the color they added in the concrete really never came out, they decided they would strip and re-seal with the color added sealant you see attached. Is this normal wear? Only in season 3 of the sealant. Wears more every year. I can get the same Sealant shown, but is something else going on? Someone once told me that they should have used oil based vs water based around water with chlorine. ?? Would be a pain to strip. Any thoughts? ... should I just seal with same stuff?

Thanks
Rich

 

[Dirk]

Follow Casey's links and ask those questions of the manufacturer (or the manufacturer of whichever product you'll use). They'll know their product best. In fact, my MO is to call around to a few, and see if I can get all the same answers (increasing the probability that the general consensus is correct). Whatever you end up with, and whatever prep/process you decide to do, try it out first in a small, inconspicuous area of your deck. Wait a few days or more to observe the results. Know before you do the whole deck how the end result will work out.

 

[Dirk]

Is this normal wear?

I would say a lot depends on your use case: number of folks/furniture on the deck, splash factor, water chemistry, sun exposure, weather, temperature, etc. My stone guru recommended I seal once a year. Sealents wear out/off. They're not lifetime products. The color in yours just makes that fact more obvious.

 

[Dirk]

OK, talked to my stone guru for you (I've tried to get him on this forum, but he's too busy.).

If you try to put oil-based sealer on top of water-based sealer, it won't penetrate evenly and you'll create a huge mess. Do not try that. If you want to switch to oil, you have to strip off all the original sealer.

Unfortunately, it's not much better for water on water. You can apply the water on water, and it will penetrate well enough, protection-wise, but everywhere there is a "hole" in the color of the existing sealer, you'll see it after the new layer goes on top. The hole will be colored by the new sealer, as it was originally colored, but it won't match the rest of the deck. So to get an even color, you guessed it, you also have to strip off the original sealer.

There is a process to touchup the "holes," to better match the rest of the deck after the re-sealing, but he wouldn't even describe it to me. He said it is not an easy, straight-forward process. If it's anything like trying that with stain on wood that has a wear spot, you'll just make the mismatch all the more obvious.

Not that you wanted to hear the following, but perhaps for others that might be tuned in: the correct way to color and seal a deck is to apply the color to the concrete during the original pour, and then only seal afterwards with clear sealer. Subsequent re-sealing with clear will not affect the color. The wearing off of patches of the sealant (the "holes") will not affect the color (because it's in the concrete, not the sealer). You get the gist.

How you might make use of that salt-in-the-wound: if you want a permanent solution to this problem, you strip off all the colored sealer and apply only clear sealer, and fall in love with the color of your original colored concrete. Then you can seal away with clear sealant every year or two, no more issues.

Your original installer did you a disservice, obviously. Sorry. If it makes you feel any better, my guy has told me many times that this type of thing is very common. Sealing and coloring seem simple enough, and looks fine when new. So lots of guys get into it and provide customers with a seemingly good result. It is only later, after they're long gone, that their inexperience with these materials reveals itself. That's why he gets the big bucks, but only rich people have the money and forethought to use his services...

Keep us posted so others can benefit from however you solve this.

 

[Aquaman7]

Acrylic sealers last anywhere from 1-5 years before they start peeling. So your right there.

 

[richmgreen]

Thanks for all the info. They did put color in when it was poured, and sealed it after with a clear sealer. But it never ended up coming up through the surface enough to show and make a difference. So they agreed to strip the clear sealer off and do the color seal at no cost to us to make up for the poor job originally done. I appreciate all your info. It's hard to find people in the business around here (in CT). Mancini Pool originally did our concrete/sealer work.

 

[Dirk]

Thanks for all the info. They did put color in when it was poured, and sealed it after with a clear sealer. But it never ended up coming up through the surface enough to show and make a difference. So they agreed to strip the clear sealer off and do the color seal at no cost to us to make up for the poor job originally done. I appreciate all your info. It's hard to find people in the business around here (in CT). Mancini Pool originally did our concrete/sealer work.

I got that. I was just suggesting you abandon the idea of darkening the surface by tinting the sealer, and accept the look of the concrete with a clear sealer. That will be easiest to maintain. Otherwise, you're going to have to strip and reseal every time to maintain the color you want. Which might be worth it to you. If you just keep applying the colored sealer, it'll keep getting darker and will get blotchy if you reseal over worn off spots (this according to my stone guy).

I supposed if you stripped, resealed with color, then regularly resealed with clear, before the colored sealer had a chance to develop wear spots, that might work... I could ask my guy if you're interested.

 

[Dirk]

Coincidentally, my stone guy just called. He confirmed everything I just explained.

He also offered how he would have done the original fix. He would have stripped the clear sealer, then stained the concrete (not with colored sealer, just a stain), then applied the clear sealer over that. So that would be another option for you if you want to fix this once and for all. Then clear sealer annually (or as needed) after that as a regular maintenance item to preserve the color.

We discussed all sorts of other aspects of your situation, which I won't bore you with, unless you ask.

 

[richmgreen]

If stripping and starting fresh, is it better to use oil based or water based sealer?

 

[Dirk]

I'll ask.

 

[Dirk]

OK, talked to my stone guy. He says...

There is no oil-based sealer. It's either water-based or solvent-based.

The other two types to be aware of are penetrating sealers and film-forming sealers. One seeps/soaks in, the latter creates a protective layer on top of the stone. He specifically said not to use a film-forming sealer. The problem is, they create that layer, but also they permeate the fissures and pores of stone a bit. Like plugging the holes. Which sounds good, until you go to redo it, or try to strip or scrub it off. You're left with clogged pours that cause problems with subsequent sealing, or when switching types of sealers. I'm paraphrasing, but that's the gist. He says penetrating sealers are best for your application.

I asked him specifically what he recommends: after stripping the old sealer use water-based penetrating sealer.