Need help wiring new intermatic timer. The old one bit the dust.

Jun 30, 2017
24
Greenwood SC
I need to change out my timer
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from the pump to the breaker and there are a few differences I need to know. Any help would be appreciated. Do I wire them the same?
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Make sure you connect the supply side (from breaker panel) to the terminals with the white wires prewired on them, that is what powers the clock motor that turns the dial.

Edit - make sure there's a wire nut on those ground wires as well, they look like they were previously just twisted together without a compression connector on them.
 
I'm puzzled... your old unit appears to be controlling a 115 volt pump...

But your new T104 is built with a clock that is driven by 220 volts...

I don't have this timer, so I could be wrong, but I don't believe I am... Check out this chart on this page... https://www.intermatic.com/-/media/inriver/5305-8656.ashx/T100-Specifications-EN

I think you need A T103...

What am I missing???

Jim R.

we had a pump replaced it 115 I believe, we haven't used the new one yet but I'm pretty sure the new one is a 115/220 and the guy who hooked it up said he set it to 220. He changed the breaker and said the timer was broken. So we ordered the T104. Is that wrong.
 
The breaker he shows is a 2 pole 20A square D so I would assume that it's a 240v feed and should be a240v clock motor. Are you looking at the fact they used romex inside the liquidtight conduit with a white/black wire?

A test with a volt meter would be the best verification however.
 
we had a pump replaced it 115 I believe, we haven't used the new one yet but I'm pretty sure the new one is a 115/220 and the guy who hooked it up said he set it to 220. He changed the breaker and said the timer was broken. So we ordered the T104. Is that wrong.

J,

No, it was me... I saw the black and white romex and "assumed" that your voltage was 120 volts.. I missed the fact that you upgrade to a 220 volt system..

The T104 is perfect for a 220 volt system.

Darn.. That moves my error counter to 21.5, just for today.... Sigh :p

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Well if it "was" 120 and got converted to 220 without replacing the clock motor, that may explain why it no longer works.

Bingo! Funny thing is when we bought the house and started looking at the pool pump and wiring, we noticed then they had a 220 breaker and a 120 clock with the 110 or 115 pump. I didn't think it looked right at all and decided to upgrade the old pump and the electrician is actually the one who told us that the timer was shot and said to go ahead and do the upgrade pump and timer since the breaker was already set for a 220. This is the first pool I have done and I don't know much about them. The electrician said I could do the timer myself. LOL.
 
This timer can be used for either 120V or 240V. You have 6 terminals - Green (ground). A - Neutral. 1 & 3 - Line Hots. 2&4 - Load Hots. Timer motor runs on 240V. For use as 120V Load - Black wire on either 2 or 4, white wire connected to A. So, from breaker panel - you need 4 wires - green (ground), White (A - neutral), Black and Red (1 &3 - HOT).

Once you get it running correctly - Leave it running all year - it will run forever IF you do - maybe 2-3 years if you power off during the off season. I've got one that is going on 10-12 years now. Just remove the timer dogs and put the lever to off for the off season. You can find additional dogs at Lowes/ Home Depot or online at Amazon for about $5 / set of on and off dogs.
 

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This timer can be used for either 120V or 240V.

The T104 clock motor requires an input of 208-240V to operate correctly. For 120V operation you'd be better off with a T101 which is set up for 120V as SPST, or you can replace the 240V clock motor in the T104 with a 120V clock motor (assuming there's a neutral wire for the unbalanced load) but that would be more of a Frankenstein that would confuse the next guy who works on it.
 
The T104 clock motor requires an input of 208-240V to operate correctly. For 120V operation you'd be better off with a T101 which is set up for 120V as SPST, or you can replace the 240V clock motor in the T104 with a 120V clock motor (assuming there's a neutral wire for the unbalanced load) but that would be more of a Frankenstein that would confuse the next guy who works on it.

It has the potential to, yes. It will work , however. Just be sure to power the T104 timer with a 4 wire feed from the panel, as I stated. You can replace the timer motor (if you can find one) with the 120V version.
 
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