Moving up in pipe diameter and flow switches

sande005

Bronze Supporter
Aug 19, 2018
921
White Bear Lake, MN
Pool Size
23000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-45
The time has come to replace my ancient ball valves. Waiting on the truck to deliver the new Pentairs (cheaper than Jandy, and locally parts are more available).
The pool was originally done in all 1 1/2" pipe. When I had my new filter installed, they used 2" from the pump to the filter, and a short section reduced back down to 1 1 /2 after the filter.
Since I will be cutting and gluing a lot anyway, am thinking of going to all 2" for the entire equipment pad. I don't expect a big performance change (the long runs to and from the pool will still be 1 1/2). Mostly it is a consistency/appearance thing.
Still weighing whether to put a heater bypass in, also.

Will this have an impact on the minimal rpm I run my pump at, to keep the current SWCG flow switch activated?
 
Will do. Actually, I'll be by passing the heater this year completely. The heater is on its deathbed after 26 years. Will install new next spring. So will leave enough working pipe for a clean install, and adding a by pass then.
 
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Reactions: Jimrahbe
005,

I like the idea of making the equipment pad all the same 2" pipe... It just makes the most sense if you are re-working the plumbing anyway.. :goodjob:

That said, you will not notice any measurable difference in how your pool operates...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Will this have an impact on the minimal rpm I run my pump at, to keep the current SWCG flow switch activated?
A flow switch is activated by water velocity and not actual flow.

The flow switch comes with a T that is designed to provide the correct velocity to match the flow.

Use the T that is provided by the manufacturer so that the flow switch is correct.

For example, if the T is 2", the flow is 25 gpm and if you switch to a 1.5" T, the new flow is activated at 14 gpm.


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