Maintaining my own pool now

PoolSouthpaw

Gold Supporter
Jan 25, 2025
4
Florida, USA
Pool Size
9000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-9)
First of all, I want to express my gratitude for this site and the folks on it. It has been an invaluable resource as I'm taking over doing pool maintenance myself.

A little backstory: I ditched three different pool cleaning services in less than a year (all with at least a 4.9 out of 5 star rating on Google). I won't go into specifics here, but let's just say in each case, I didn't get what I paid for.

So with pool maintenance in my own hands, I bought a TF-Pro Salt kit and a C-600 pH/salt meter. Some of the numbers made my jaw drop.

FC: 19
CC: undetectable (< 0.5)
Salt: 5300
pH: 8.4
CYA: undetectable (< 30)
TA: 50
CH: 200

The weekly reports I received said FC was 4 or 5, pH was between 7.4 and 7.6, and salt was 3000. (The other numbers were not reported.) I suspect the FC and pH were measured using the OTO kit (unreliable at such a high FC) or cheap test strips (always unreliable). I also suspect the salt number was read straight off the Hayward controller (no secondary test to confirm), and that salt was added every time the reported reading dipped below 3000.

My first course of action was to raise the TA to 80 using baking soda, lower the pH by adding muriatic acid, and turn off the SWG for several weeks while the FC dropped to a more reasonable level. I also replaced my SWG with a new T-9 cell.

Here are my most recent numbers:

FC: 9
CC: undetectable (< 0.5)
Salt: 5300
pH: 7.7
CYA: 70
TA: 80
CH: 425

All of the numbers seem good now, except for the eye-watering salt number. To get the salt number down, I don't see how I have any choice besides draining and refilling about 40 percent of my pool water. I'm sure my new T-9 cell will appreciate that. As others on this site have said, I don't plan to add salt based on the Hayward controller reading alone; I will use the TF salt test to confirm the numbers first.

That's all I have for now. Thanks again for this great resource, and thanks for helping me to open my eyes to the high costs, low value, and significant harm I was getting from my (now former) pool cleaners.
 
Hey Sputhpaw and Welcome !!!!
My first course of action was to raise the TA to 80
The 50 was fine. If it settles at 50 or 60 again, let it be. A lower TA helps keep the Ph down a little and is common for salt pools.

Check in before adjusting anything because there is a bunch of little asterisks like this one.


Salt: 5300
With the Taylor test ? Each drop is 200 so the 3 is suspect. Also confirm you used a 10 ml sample. Sometimes people use 25ml and it comes back 2.5X higher than it is. 2100 would be closer to the original supposed 3000 than 5300 is.
 
Welcome to TFP.

A TA of 50 would have been okay.

What salinity does your Aquarite panel show?

If you drain water to lower your salt level the Aquarite reading will drop. You need at least 2600 to make the panel happy. Show us the following:

  • Report all diagnostic readings when you..
    • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
    • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
    • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
  • What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
 
Hey Sputhpaw and Welcome !!!!

The 50 was fine. If it settles at 50 or 60 again, let it be. A lower TA helps keep the Ph down a little and is common for salt pools.

Check in before adjusting anything because there is a bunch of little asterisks like this one.



With the Taylor test ? Each drop is 200 so the 3 is suspect. Also confirm you used a 10 ml sample. Sometimes people use 25ml and it comes back 2.5X higher than it is. 2100 would be closer to the original supposed 3000 than 5300 is.
Fair point… To clarify, the 5300 number is from the Hayward controller. The TF test (10 mL) and the C-600 meter both gave me 5400; I figured it was close enough to be within 100 ppm.

Good to know about lower TA… Thanks for the clarification.
 
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Welcome to TFP.

A TA of 50 would have been okay.

What salinity does your Aquarite panel show?

If you drain water to lower your salt level the Aquarite reading will drop. You need at least 2600 to make the panel happy. Show us the following:

  • Report all diagnostic readings when you..
    • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
    • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
    • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
  • What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
To clarify, I'm not aware of any problems with the new salt cell. It appears to be working very well, in fact. I don't know how to find the serial numbers you're asking about, but the cell average reading is 5300. For comparison, the TF salt test and the C-600 meter both gave me 5400.
 
The TF test (10 mL) and the C-600 meter both gave me 5400; I figured it was close enough to be within 100 ppm
Yeah. 100 off is way close enough for government work. You need to drain/exchange an even % to lower salt or CYA. Half lowers them half, etc. Calcium is not even because there will be calcium in the fill water being added back so you have to overshoot the drain accordingly.



Good to know about lower TA… Thanks for the clarification.
We got you now. :) Please ask anytime. We're pretty darn good at it if I do say so myself.

How Clear is TFP Clear?
 
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To clarify, I'm not aware of any problems with the new salt cell.

That you are aware of.

That high of a salt level should give you high amps which is not good for the electronics.


I don't know how to find the serial numbers you're asking about,

Show us the labels on the cell and the inside door panel.

but the cell average reading is 5300. For comparison, the TF salt test and the C-600 meter both gave me 5400.
You need to get the salt level as reported by the system down around 3000.
 
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Show us the labels on the cell and the inside door panel.
The inside door panel does not have a label. To clarify, the controller was a very old AquaLogic system. I did what was called an "OmniPL retrofit" in February 2025. If there is a label with the serial number, I'm not seeing it.
The first seven characters on the salt cell are "1E24305." It was purchased and installed in February 2025; I currently have it turned off.

You need to get the salt level as reported by the system down around 3000.
Yes, that is my plan.