Low voltage circuit breaker keeps tripping

[KenW]

Hi:
I have a Pentair Easy Touch Control system that is tripping the 3 amp breaker controlling "valves" (24V). Pumps will not run. Maybe due to power surge.
Tested the breaker - it's ok. Where to next? The larger breaker in the panel or look at the Transformer (to which the wires go from the LV breaker).
Any suggestions welcome - I'm nearly over my head with this one.
Thanks.

 

[JohnT]

Welcome to TFP!

Is this a new installation or has it worked previously with the system set up just like it is now?

Does it trip immediately, occasionally or does it trip at during a specific action?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Ken,

The first thing I would do is disconnect all the four valve connectors on the back side of the main board... Intake, Return, A and B. Then power it up and see if breaker still pops.

I would think if the transformer was bad, it would pop the main breaker powering the transformer, not the three amp 24 VAC breaker. It would not hurt to test the transformer output to ensure it was providing 24 VAC.

It you get 24 volts out of the transformer, and the 3 amp CB still pops with the valves disconnected then I would have to assume a bad main PCB.

Do you have a surge protector in your EasyTouch?

Let us know what you find out..

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.

 

[KenW]

5 year old installation. Worked fine until last week. It hums for about 3 seconds then trips - nothing specific, the pump never starts up.

 

[KenW]

Hi Jim,

I only found ONE valve connector on the back of the main board (Valve A). When I disconnected it and powered it back up - no breaker pop and both pumps worked like they always had.

I haven't checked the transformer out put yet.

So, what now? Will this harm anything to operate without this valve connected?

I don't think my Easy Touch came with an internal surge protector.

I appreciate your help!

Ken W.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Ken,

If you only have one connector (Valve A) then you should only have one valve with an actuator on top of it. I would assume a water feature, like a waterfall.

Since the CB did not pop with the connector off, the next thing you need to do is look at the wiring going to the actuator on top of the automated valve. I've heard of cases where an animal has eaten into the cable and caused a short. Make sure the cable looks ok all the way from the ET to the valve. Look for anything where the cable appears to have the outer layer of insulation damaged...

If the cable looks ok, then I would move the switch on the back of the actuator to the "center" off position and reconnect the connector to the main PCB (Valve A). Try it again..

If the CB does not pop, I would suspect a bad actuator.

It will not hurt anything to run with the connector off, your water feature will just never turn on, or off if already on. If the valve is for a water feature and it has it's own pump, you do not want the pump running if the valve is shut off. If the valve switches between two water features, as long as one of them is on, then running the pump would be ok..

You do not need to test the transformer, it sounds ok to me..

Surge protectors are something you add to the ET, they do not come with them..

Jim R.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Do as Jim suggested.

But also check the valve that the actuator is mounted on to. Take the actuator off the valve and put the handle back on the valve. Does the valve turn freely (with a little bit of force) or is the valve stuck or hard to turn? Can you cycle the actuator when it is off the valve and not have it pop the CB?

If the valve is sticky or hard to turn, you may need to rebuild it. There are repair/maintenance kits for doing that. Rebuilding the guts of a valve is super easy to do.

(I'm assuming this is a standard Jandy type 3-way or shutoff valve)


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[Jimrahbe]

Matt,

Good catch.. I did not even think of a hard to turn valve issue. That would account for the 3 second delay before the CB pops.

Jim R.

 

[KenW]

Matt:

You called it. The breaker did not pop when actuator was turned to 'off'.

Pulled cover off and still could not budge valve.

It's a Compool actuator - if that makes any difference.

Still easy to rebuild?

Would appreciate a suggestion as to where to get a rebuild kit. Google? Amazon?

Thanks in advance.
Ken W.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

What type of valve is it? A 3-way Jandy Never-Lube valve?

Pictures would help.




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[KenW]

Hi Matt:

Hope these pictures help. It turns out that I can turn valve (barely) without actuator. The actuator will spin but won't engage valve but it doesn't trip breaker.If that makes sense...
Thanks again.

Ken W.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

Looks like a Pentair valve, can you confirm that?

Also, that top handle is busted so that needs replacing too.

You can get a full rebuild kit from pretty much any pool supply store both brick & mortar (Leslie's ) or online at INYOPools.com, Sunplay, etc. In fact, you could probably send that picture to folks at INYOPools customer support and they'll know the exact part number to ship you. I would just rebuild everything on the inside of that valve.

See this diagram for the guts of a Pentair diverter valve - PENTAIR

Did you remove the valve cover and look inside? Something must be obstructing the diverter assembly. Open it up and give it a look-see...shoot some pics back to us.

 

[KenW]

Thanks again Matt:

Yes, my valves (and system) are all Pentair. It looks like the handle was intentionally cut off the valve with the actuator. When I switched it out with another handle it turned rather easily and nothing obvious was blocking it.
As far as the actuator, how do I make sure that it needs replaced. Since it's my only one, I can't switch it out to double-check. The black cap-like form that fits over valve handle does not move in either position On1 or On2.

Ken W